Boss 302 Oil Cooler Leaks

[302 Hi Pro]

This is very interesting and I am pleased that I came across this thread, special thanks to Black Boss for the photo documentation on the sway bar contact issue. I will inspect my Boss before the spring season begins and will continue to keep an eye on the sandwich plate, lines and fittings.

Also, I will now consider keeping a spare part at hand for future track days and maybe change it out for the Air/Oil cooler from FRPP.

Does anyone have information on the T-Stat control setup? I like the idea of the oil cooler circulation opening up once the oil comes up to temp. Thanks in advance for any information you might be able to share on that.
-302 Hi Pro

 

[VoodooBoss]

Does anyone have information on the T-Stat control setup? I like the idea of the oil cooler circulation opening up once the oil comes up to temp. Thanks in advance for any information you might be able to share on that.
-302 Hi Pro

That's still a bit of an unknown but I'm sure someone will figure it out soon.

 

[WinterSucks]

Correct me if I am wrong, but the internal thermostat in the engine should already limit the flow if the engine is cold. Does the oil take that much longer to reach temp and that is why we could benefit from a secondary in-line thermostat just for the oil cooler coolant flow?

EDIT: does anyone have an idea how the stock lower radiator hose plastic manifold is designed? I am wondering if the flow path through the lower hose and the cooler hose is parallel or if they are forcing the flow through the cooler and back. I want to make sure I can actually put a valve or thermostat in-line without causing any problems. It does look like the plastic manifold (lower hose) is necked down but I can't be sure. Maybe someone here who has removed the lower hose can chime in.

 

[hkerekes]

I had noticed a very slow loss of coolant in the reservoir but never saw any spots on the ground or even smelled coolant. Finally found it today while doing an oil change.

 

[WinterSucks]

I am looking into using a normally open (fail safe) solenoid valve in-line with the water/oil cooler lines, and replacing the lines with flexible reinforced hose, since it looks like the stock hose/tubing assembly being stiff is contributing to stressing the connections. I will be adding some type of sleeve over the tubing where the sway bar can make contact, too. Maybe a section of Teflon tubing? I work in the semiconductor industry and we use tons of high-end valves and some of my co-workers are great resources for fluid systems and can help me find something that is not crazy expensive and still reliable. I can easily make the electrical controls, either an automatic one with a temp sensor or switch that will fail safe (valve open) or a simple remote toggle switch with a timer and buzzer to remind you. Once I get that system proven out in the spring I will post up the details and parts list for those we want to build it on their own, and maybe put together some kits for those who just want a plug and play kit.

Some info that would be helpful to me:
1. What is the typical/max PSI seen by radiator hoses running at redline?

2. What is the design of the radiator lower hose manifold inside. Is the fluid path through he oil cooler in parallel with the radiator lower hose or is all of the fluid forced through the cooler. I am guessing in parallel since the cooler hoses are smaller, but want to be sure. If it is in series then I need to do a cooler bypass instead of a cut-off. I won't be able to look at mine till spring. I know a few of you have one laying around. Pictures would be great!

3. What would be the optimum temp range for the oil? If I chose to get fancy, I can use a Watlow PID temperature controller and a proportional valve to hold the temp steady (hey, I'm and EE, I like to play ). If the cooler is even capable of cooling too much. Maybe in winter it could, but for those running in winter I doubt the cooler is required and should just be disabled.

Any help would be much appreciated! Once I get some info collected I will start a build thread so anyone with more info or suggestions can chime in. I don't pretend to know everything and appreciate constructive feedback.

 

[hkerekes]

Why reinvent the wheel?

Just run an air to air oil cooler, would probably save you $ and perform just as good if not better.

 

[WinterSucks]

I am willing to bet I can get a controlled valve in there for less than $200 in parts, plus I get to play It is not all that complicated, just finding a proper valve for a reasonable price is taking a while...

At the very least, I think we have all made a good case for replacing the stock oil cooler lines if you want to keep the cooler. I would like to take it a step further and improve the oil warm-up time while I am at it for those colder days in November, trying to squeeze as much driving time as I can out of each year. As soon as all that cold coolant in the radiator flows when the the thermostat opens, it goes straight to the oil cooler and slows the warm up way down. And Cooltech found that to be the case in much warmer temps!. It has me worried about engine wear over the long term, even if I let it sit for 10 minutes to warm up.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Here are a few more oil cooler leaks. I've made this a sticky.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2012-2013-boss-302-mustang-373/995530-warning-fellow-boss-302-owners.html

 

[Grant 302]

Here are a few more oil cooler leaks. I've made this a sticky.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2012-2013-boss-302-mustang-373/995530-warning-fellow-boss-302-owners.html

LOL. I just linked this thread in *that* one!

2. What is the design of the radiator lower hose manifold inside. Is the fluid path through he oil cooler in parallel with the radiator lower hose or is all of the fluid forced through the cooler. I am guessing in parallel since the cooler hoses are smaller, but want to be sure. If it is in series then I need to do a cooler bypass instead of a cut-off. I won't be able to look at mine till spring. I know a few of you have one laying around. Pictures would be great!

Can't help with the other questions, but the flow to the cooling stack is parallel as you have guessed. The solution you are talking about sounds a bit complicated. I've been considering running the coolant side in a separate loop like a supercharger heat exchanger with an in-line pump. Pretty sure that would be complicated enough for me if I try to do it.

 

[VoodooBoss]

LOL. I just linked this thread in *that* one!

You're hired!

 

[steveespo]

Not to down anybodies skills but "fixing" the water to oil cooler setup is more work than its worth. For track use I suggest, eliminate cooler, add air to air cooler with 180 deg inline t stat and large Setrab cooler plate. Minimizes chance of oil and water mixing and leaks. Also separates thermal loads from each other. And just to reiterate, the oil NEEDS to be cooled when running these cars on track.
Steve

 

[cloud9]

Not to down anybodies skills but "fixing" the water to oil cooler setup is more work than its worth. For track use I suggest, eliminate cooler, add air to air cooler with 180 deg inline t stat and large Setrab cooler plate. Minimizes chance of oil and water mixing and leaks. Also separates thermal loads from each other. And just to reiterate, the oil NEEDS to be cooled when running these cars on track.
Steve

Sooo, if a guy has the FRPP air-to-oil cooler and wants to eliminate the factory water-to-oil cooler, what parts are needed?

2011-2014 GT lower radiator hose?
180 deg inline t stat (part #/vendor please and where do you install it?)

Anything else?

 

[Grant 302]

Sooo, if a guy has the FRPP air-to-oil cooler and wants to eliminate the factory water-to-oil cooler, what parts are needed?

2011-2014 GT lower radiator hose?
180 deg inline t stat (part #/vendor please and where do you install it?)

Anything else?

The GT male/male oil filter nipple. You'll also need the BIG hex tool to pull the long one out and put the new nipple in.


Steve, I *know* you're right. 8) I hope I remember that when it comes time for me to take the stock cooler out!

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Not to down anybodies skills but "fixing" the water to oil cooler setup is more work than its worth. For track use I suggest, eliminate cooler, add air to air cooler with 180 deg inline t stat and large Setrab cooler plate. Minimizes chance of oil and water mixing and leaks. Also separates thermal loads from each other. And just to reiterate, the oil NEEDS to be cooled when running these cars on track.
Steve

I like this idea. Your right, it will improve the efficiency of the cooling system. I'm going to start collecting parts, including oil pressure and temp gauges, water temp with the LS dash pod. I have a 2012 Boss.

After the OEM cooler is removed, there will be more room to run the new AN10 oil cooler lines. I'm thinking about a 25 row cooler, with a 185 degree t-stat Sandwich Plate.

I'm having trouble with where to mount the cooler core? Was bracket was used? Any help would be great.
Thank you guys,
2HP

 

[steveespo]

Lower radiator hose is Motorcraft KM-5052 or KM-5136. GT lower hose.
I bought my -10AN 180 deg thermostat plate from improved racing
Already have the Ford Racing oil cooler kit so I am using their top bracket along with a Setrab cooler matrix that is the largest in the same group as the Ford Racing model.
With my blowfish racing tow hook/splitter bracket I can easily add two lower tabs to support the bottom of the oil matrix.
Will be mounting the thermostat which is about the size of a deck of cards somewhere on the lower radiator support. Have to shorten my existing hoses and make another pair to go from tstat to the cooler.
Oh yeah you Boss guys have to get the short filter mounting stud, thanks Grant.
I am so backed up with prep work because of the snow it's making me crazy.
Steve

 

[Domestic Product]

I think you should make a kit and offer it for sale!

Not to down anybodies skills but "fixing" the water to oil cooler setup is more work than its worth. For track use I suggest, eliminate cooler, add air to air cooler with 180 deg inline t stat and large Setrab cooler plate. Minimizes chance of oil and water mixing and leaks. Also separates thermal loads from each other. And just to reiterate, the oil NEEDS to be cooled when running these cars on track.
Steve

 

[VoodooBoss]

See post #5 in the link below for a working list of parts for a DIY oil cooler.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6652.msg107216#msg107216

 

[F.D. Sako]

I changed the oil yesterday while prepping the car for the track, and I noticed my oil cooler line had a nylon protection piece zip-tied to where the sway bar would rub. Did you guys have that as well, or did Ford start putting additional layer of protection on the line?

I'll try to get pics next time I jack the car up.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

I was inspecting mine last month during an oil & filter change and mine has the same nylon sleeve over the hose at the same location you mentioned. I have a 2012 with a late November 2011 build date. I could feel there was a small mark in the rubber hose, so I applied a 1" X 3" peel and stick foam strip at the point of contact.

I was happy to see there was no contact with the aluminum hose fitting/coupler. That would have been a leak for sure. Thinking about removing it all together and installing an external Setrab 24 or 25 row air to oil cooler, but I need to install oil temp, oil pressure gauges at the same time.

Regards,
302 Hi Pro

 

[VoodooBoss]

See post #2241, Pete has a leak.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2494.new;topicseen#new