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Brake Pads for GT350

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@DocWalt VIR is tough on brakes. I got through a set of OE pads in my first day in the 350, when I was still learning the car.

I'd recommend G-Loc R18 or Carbotech XP24's on the front. Both give me about 6 hours of track time on tracks that are tough on brakes.......

How are the G-loc and Carbotechs in regards to eating the front rotors?

I haven't had issues with the OEM pads on the R, but having better braking usually means they go through the rotors faster.
 
How are the G-loc and Carbotechs in regards to eating the front rotors?

I haven't had issues with the OEM pads on the R, but having better braking usually means they go through the rotors faster.

I don't have any comparative data, as I only used the OE pads for one day. I would expect Race pads to be more aggressive on rotors, but typically I'm discarding rotors for cracking or grooving, way before they reach minimum thickness.

I think this is more a function of how hard the brakes get used, and the limits of the OE brake cooling under frequent trail braking.
 
I grew some testicular fortitude today and braked 200-300 feet later... The brakes started to clean up with less pad deposits at the end of each session and the pulsing was really minimized. The rotors definitely need cut/replaced but much better.

The ST43s are wearing like iron! Almost no visible wear, I forgot to measure them before usage though, oops. My only complaint with the pads is that their release is kinda harsh & modulation is tough because of it, especially compared to the Carbotech & G-Loc pads. Terrific bite though!
 
Stock pads won't fade at VIR. They'll wear out quicker than a track pad, but you won't have mismatched material on the rotors, noise, etc..

Yep, another GT350 driver there was on stock pads with Hoosier R7s. No issues... Oh well, live and learn. I like the ST43s but now I need to find someone to cut the rotors so I can try bedding them again.

During all of your testing did you find any instances with stock pads causing deposits? Like I mentioned above, I had some faint pedal pulse with stock pads even when I was street/autocross driving only.
 
Quick update on the ST43s, I did a track day at NYST yesterday. Pads were fantastic. No pad deposits at all! Pulsing seems to be pretty much gone too after getting the front rotors cut after VIR. I was running 1:34s which is fairly solid. I'll have video and time posted later for the lap time thread.

Pad wear is still insanely good. They're barely wearing down, really nice!
 

HardYakka

Avalanche Gray '17
Quick update on the ST43s, I did a track day at NYST yesterday. Pads were fantastic. No pad deposits at all! Pulsing seems to be pretty much gone too after getting the front rotors cut after VIR. I was running 1:34s which is fairly solid. I'll have video and time posted later for the lap time thread.

Pad wear is still insanely good. They're barely wearing down, really nice!
I'm thinking of making the same move to ST43s. Did you have to resurface, sand or otherwise remove the OEM compound from your rotors? Or did you start from a fresh rotor? Im prepping for Sebring :) Thanks
 
I'm thinking of making the same move to ST43s. Did you have to resurface, sand or otherwise remove the OEM compound from your rotors? Or did you start from a fresh rotor? Im prepping for Sebring :) Thanks

The ST43 pads aren't "compatible" with OEM material so I'd scrub the rotors or maybe buy a brake disc hone and spend a few minutes doing that but you'll need to be careful to do it evenly. I scrubbed the front rotors with one of those metal scrubby scotchbrite pads, then I drove the 8.5 hours to VIR on them. I did have issues with the pulsing at VIR but it faded mostly away after VIR. Zero issues since getting the front rotors cut.

I bought new rotors for street use and received a new one that had 10 thousandths run out... So I'd not be surprised if my original OEM rotors were out of spec too which would have caused the pulsing. My untouched OEM rears are barely within spec, one has 2 thou runout.

The pads themselves are beastly. I do wish they had a little more bite at the deep end of the pedal, but they're easy to modulate and I couldn't imagine how you'd overheat them. They're a great value for the money.
 

HardYakka

Avalanche Gray '17
@DocWalt nice one thanks. Good to learn that you were able to cut your rotors as well.

Off topic, but did you align your GT350 to a more agressive track setting before that long drive to VIR? I'm about to drive it 3 hours to Sebring and trying to decide on the camber strategy as to not hose my PSC2s. Curious if you had any issues or tire wear from the long drive, if at track camber.

I appreciate its a world of tradeoffs and you can't have it all :)
 
@HardYakka I had zero issues driving to VIR with ~0 toe and the -1.8 camber that I have. I'm daily driving that alignment with zero issues. I did however cause issues for myself when I drove to NYST. I had 1/8" toe out and corded the inside shoulder.

I can't speak for what will happen with more camber, I'm limited to what I have because of street class autocross rules.
 
225
312
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
@DocWalt Would you run the ST43 as an Intermediate pad? I plan on running 2-3 track events next season and also will be may be driving my car to the track (considering renting a trailer). VIR is 3.5 hours away, Dominion and NCCAR both just about 2 hours. I had planned on running the OEM pads and keeping a spare OEM set on hand but, I'm rethinking this. I've auto crossed a bunch years ago but, excluding Track Attack last month. VIR will be my first next spring.
 
I'd imagine you'll be OK with the stock pads, but no worries about using the ST43s either as an intermediate driver on the right tires/temps. I drove to VIR on the ST43s with no issues. In the COLD temps I had at VIR (it snowed... a lot) at about 45 degrees peak temps they struggled to build enough heat to keep the rotors clean. I'd imagine they're going to be way too much pad for anything short of the Cup 2s. In warmer temps at NYST they were much easier to get hot and that kept the rotors from building up deposits.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,425
8,356
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
I will reiterate what Black Boss and Steveespo said clear back in the beginning of this thread .....................fast tracks , you need race pads!!! I would not even attempt running at Road Atlanta , VIR, Road America , or Mid Ohio, etc. with a stock set of pads. Ran Road America , years back , for one day, on stock pads, and had to drive home from Elkhart Lake , Wisconsin to Blair, Ne. metal on metal. Destroyed those things and learned a quick lesson..........have not gone to a track since without a solid set of race pads. Like the two above, I like G-Loc 18s or Carbotech 24s for fast courses. Tim at Optimum Performance sells G Locs and I know one of the owners at the G-Loc quite well ( Danny Puskar ). Danny has supplied pads for us for many years at Woodhouse!
 
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FWIW there was another guy there at VIR with a GT350 (John Woolbright, active over on facebook) with Hoosier R7s and stock pads. I personally wouldn't take the risk, but besides short life span he reported no issues (they were easily lasting a weekend for him)

I'm a strong believer in a bit of overkill for brakes, but if the pads get too grabby versus your grip level it does make it awfully difficult to drive them
 
I’m always a fan of having too much brake capacity vs not enough. ;)
 
I'd imagine you'll be OK with the stock pads, but no worries about using the ST43s either as an intermediate driver on the right tires/temps. I drove to VIR on the ST43s with no issues. In the COLD temps I had at VIR (it snowed... a lot) at about 45 degrees peak temps they struggled to build enough heat to keep the rotors clean. I'd imagine they're going to be way too much pad for anything short of the Cup 2s. In warmer temps at NYST they were much easier to get hot and that kept the rotors from building up deposits.

Lol they are.

Just trying to bed them in on the street and I was triggering ABS by the time it got from 60 down to 40.

As soon as they get a little heat they are brutal.
 
Hey guys, I've raced (not HPDE, but actual wheel-wheel racing in AI) with Hawk pads for about 10 years on my 3300 lb (ballasted up) 96 Mustang. It has Stoptech 4-piston w/ 2-pc rotors front and stock rear brakes.

I plan to run 6-10 track events per year. I have just 4000 miles on my GT350 so far. I've done 3 track days with moderate seat time (instructing). I plan to swap pads and wheels/tires for track weekends. Likely running stock stuff on the street and then Apex 19x11 & R888s and a race-type pad on the track.

Is anyone running Hawk pads? I saw just one mention of DTC70 in this thread. I don't know the other compounds mentioned without googling them all to know who makes which. Once I found a setup I liked, I stuck with it and had no need to shop around.

thanks!
 
Hey guys, I've raced (not HPDE, but actual wheel-wheel racing in AI) with Hawk pads for about 10 years on my 3300 lb (ballasted up) 96 Mustang. It has Stoptech 4-piston w/ 2-pc rotors front and stock rear brakes.

I plan to run 6-10 track events per year. I have just 4000 miles on my GT350 so far. I've done 3 track days with moderate seat time (instructing). I plan to swap pads and wheels/tires for track weekends. Likely running stock stuff on the street and then Apex 19x11 & R888s and a race-type pad on the track.

Is anyone running Hawk pads? I saw just one mention of DTC70 in this thread. I don't know the other compounds mentioned without googling them all to know who makes which. Once I found a setup I liked, I stuck with it and had no need to shop around.

thanks!

Hawk doesn’t offer pads for the GT350


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