The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Brake Pads for GT350

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I have a 2014 Mustang GT with 4-piston Brembos (with cooling ducts) and I have great success with these pads:

https://www.powerstop.com/product/track-day-brake-pads/#y=2018&mk=FORD&mo=MUSTANG&ss=Shelby GT350; Shelby GT350R;

These are the pads for your GT350
https://www.powerstop.com/product/track-day-brake-pads/#y=2018&mk=FORD&mo=MUSTANG&ss=Shelby GT350; Shelby GT350R;

The only downside is they are dusty as hell and if you run in the rain, the combo of water and heat results in concrete-like deposits on the wheels. Better have them coated.

The pads are about 1/2 the price of GLOCS or CarboTech. I run their Ceramic-Metallic Z26 pads on the street and the pad compounds are compatible with each other.



I am SO GLAD you posted this! I ran the Raybestos pads for the first time on my GT350 at Charlotte in the rain and when I got home I had these concrete deposits in the nook on every spoke of my front rims. The Raybestos worked great on track but I had to buy a gallon of Sonax and spent three evenings scrubbing my wheels to get the tarter-like concrete off. I've used several different pads on my other cars and never seen the buildup this bad.
Do other pads have this?
 
I wish I had known this was an issue prior to purchase. I would have looked at other brands. I don't need or want "full-race" pads I need pads that will work for track days and not over heat with the GT350 (and ideally not turn to concrete on my rims). I will drive the car to some track events that are close and trailer to some so I want pads that I can put on at home and then use to get to the track and back as well.
 
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
I wish I had known this was an issue prior to purchase. I would have looked at other brands. I don't need or want "full-race" pads I need pads that will work for track days and not over heat with the GT350 (and ideally not turn to concrete on my rims). I will drive the car to some track events that are close and trailer to some so I want pads that I can put on at home and then use to get to the track and back as well.
Ok, so maybe I was a bit too brief on my comments about Pagid RSL29's. They're about as user-friendly as a race pad can get. They work on the street just fine, no noise most of the time, good braking when cold and so on. At the track, they're easy to modulate and the torque curve is relatively flat, so you get the same braking corner after corner. Oh, and they're endurance pads. They last and last and last and last. When I was running iron brake rotors, I just put them in in the spring and took them out, well, never actually. They're not cheap, but like Castrol SRF, they're worth every penny.
 
Ok, so maybe I was a bit too brief on my comments about Pagid RSL29's. They're about as user-friendly as a race pad can get. They work on the street just fine, no noise most of the time, good braking when cold and so on. At the track, they're easy to modulate and the torque curve is relatively flat, so you get the same braking corner after corner. Oh, and they're endurance pads. They last and last and last and last. When I was running iron brake rotors, I just put them in in the spring and took them out, well, never actually. They're not cheap, but like Castrol SRF, they're worth every penny.
I fully agree with this. Mine made no more noise, and maybe less, than the stock pads on the street. I never swapped mine out after a track day. They do not have an aggressive bite but that is fine with me.
 
3
0
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Texas
Hello Fellow GT350 Track and Street Folks,

Bumping this tread.

I have read this thread, ordered Raybestos ST-43's, ARP studs , installed them yesterday and immediately noticed the "loose banging change" noise from both front wheel wells as I went to break them in. I promptly returned to my house at the end of my development to inspect the rotor/brake caliper and found there was noticeable slop up and down as the caliper springs on the front 6 piston calipers were not contacting the back of the pad as the OEM pads.. I compared the OEM pads to the ST-43's and see there is a noticeable ~0.25" per side difference. (OEM pad below the ST-43)

OEM 350 Pad vs ST-43 Gap.jpg

Bottom line, the banging/lose pad noise for me is unbearable for any daily or street driving... Id like a pad with longer life than OEM as I plan to track my 350 4-5 times per year mainly COTA. I also want a pad I can drive on the street without the car sounding like its broken on every bump I hit with pads clanking up and down within the caliper.. My OEM pad lost ~40% of its life at COTA with only 2 total hrs on track. Would be great to double this.

I have now looked at Ferodo DSUNO's and Pagid RSL29's as both seem to be good pads - do these pads fit like OEM and do not rattle up and down making noise when hitting bumps etc? Are decent with street use? I can handle some squeaking/squealing when pulling up to red light.

Thanks in advance
 
Hello Fellow GT350 Track and Street Folks,

Bumping this tread.

I have read this thread, ordered Raybestos ST-43's, ARP studs , installed them yesterday and immediately noticed the "loose banging change" noise from both front wheel wells as I went to break them in. I promptly returned to my house at the end of my development to inspect the rotor/brake caliper and found there was noticeable slop up and down as the caliper springs on the front 6 piston calipers were not contacting the back of the pad as the OEM pads.. I compared the OEM pads to the ST-43's and see there is a noticeable ~0.25" per side difference. (OEM pad below the ST-43)

View attachment 63038

Bottom line, the banging/lose pad noise for me is unbearable for any daily or street driving... Id like a pad with longer life than OEM as I plan to track my 350 4-5 times per year mainly COTA. I also want a pad I can drive on the street without the car sounding like its broken on every bump I hit with pads clanking up and down within the caliper.. My OEM pad lost ~40% of its life at COTA with only 2 total hrs on track. Would be great to double this.

I have now looked at Ferodo DSUNO's and Pagid RSL29's as both seem to be good pads - do these pads fit like OEM and do not rattle up and down making noise when hitting bumps etc? Are decent with street use? I can handle some squeaking/squealing when pulling up to red light.

Thanks in advance
Are you sure you got the correct pads for your calipers? The Raybestos on top looks like a completely different profile (look at the bottom scallop cut) and has different cross pin connecting points, like you mentioned. When I looked up Raybestos ST43s for a GT350, they provide a pad shape diagram that looks much more in line with the OEM:

1614621586276.png

The SKU appears to be Raybestos RC1853, so I'd check the box they came in.
 
3
0
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Texas
RC1853 is what I ordered, was invoiced and paid for which is for 2015-2020 GT350.

You are correct - the profile I have isn't the same as the image on their website which you posted above.

I'll ask them again.
 
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
Hello Fellow GT350 Track and Street Folks,

Bumping this tread.

I have read this thread, ordered Raybestos ST-43's, ARP studs , installed them yesterday and immediately noticed the "loose banging change" noise from both front wheel wells as I went to break them in. I promptly returned to my house at the end of my development to inspect the rotor/brake caliper and found there was noticeable slop up and down as the caliper springs on the front 6 piston calipers were not contacting the back of the pad as the OEM pads.. I compared the OEM pads to the ST-43's and see there is a noticeable ~0.25" per side difference. (OEM pad below the ST-43)

View attachment 63038

Bottom line, the banging/lose pad noise for me is unbearable for any daily or street driving... Id like a pad with longer life than OEM as I plan to track my 350 4-5 times per year mainly COTA. I also want a pad I can drive on the street without the car sounding like its broken on every bump I hit with pads clanking up and down within the caliper.. My OEM pad lost ~40% of its life at COTA with only 2 total hrs on track. Would be great to double this.

I have now looked at Ferodo DSUNO's and Pagid RSL29's as both seem to be good pads - do these pads fit like OEM and do not rattle up and down making noise when hitting bumps etc? Are decent with street use? I can handle some squeaking/squealing when pulling up to red light.

Thanks in advance
Well, I can't tell you if there's a trackable pad with the OEM backing plate other than the OEM pads. There is, however a solution to your problem: https://racingbrake.com/cc-04k Those little guys go on the end of the anti-rattle spring arms and keep the tension on for backing plates that don't have the Ford-specific ramps on them.

1614623350674.png

If you're wondering about the dust that's not there on the rims, I'm running carbon ceramic brakes and RB ST600 brake pads. Those lovely '14 GT500 rims have been on the car all winter. There's around 500 miles since last cleaned. I'll be track testing the ST600's in a 1:1 comparo against Pagid RSC1's as soon as I can get to a track.
 
Last edited:
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
RC1853 is what I ordered, was invoiced and paid for which is for 2015-2020 GT350.

You are correct - the profile I have isn't the same as the image on their website which you posted above.

I'll ask them again.
The Friction Manufacturers' standards organization FMSI assigned D1853 to the front pads and D1854 to the rears on the GT350. The Ferodo pad with the 1853 part number should have been the right shape, but it seems it wasn't.
 
If you have the box, this is apparently how you decode the SKU from Raybestos. So I'd imagine the correct pad would read something like ST43R1853T--
20200722_RacingPartLabel_Web_RP.jpg
I'm fairly confident after some googling you were given the 6-piston Performance Pack brake pads. The pad shape is a much closer match, and you can even see the tiny divot in the top of the pad meant for the PP caliper brace crossover pin in your image:
1614624511525.png
1614624630720.png
1614624595295.png
 
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
If you have the box, this is apparently how you decode the SKU from Raybestos. So I'd imagine the correct pad would read something like ST43R1853T--
View attachment 63040
I'm fairly confident after some googling you were given the 6-piston Performance Pack brake pads. The pad shape is a much closer match, and you can even see the tiny divot in the top of the pad meant for the PP caliper brace crossover pin in your image:
View attachment 63042
View attachment 63044
View attachment 63043
The easiest way to tell if you have GT pads or GT350 pads is by measuring the depth of the friction material. If it's between 75mm and 80mm, you've got pads that work on GT350 rotors. GT pads are shallower.

1614626142086.png

I just measured the factory GT350 pad that's sitting on my desk beside me. I've got a selection of pads on hand - OEM, Pagid and Racing Brake - and they're all 76mm to 78mm deep. The goal is to use the full face of the friction ring without going over the edges. GT pads are shorter because the rotors are smaller and they'll leave a step in the face of the rotor if you use them long enough.
 
Last edited:
3
0
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Texas
Thanks took a measurement they are 68mm. Still being told its correct. I will try a different pad, the clanging noise is not desired.

Thanks for all the helpful insights guys, was very helpful.
 
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
Thanks took a measurement they are 68mm. Still being told its correct. I will try a different pad, the clanging noise is not desired.

Thanks for all the helpful insights guys, was very helpful.
Here's the outline drawing of the Pagid pad for the S550 Mustang GT:

1614634765636.png

The friction material depth is about 10mm less than the GT350 pad and it's 1.5 mm thinner too, at least as delivered by Pagid.

Here's the outline drawing for the GT350 pad:

1614634964346.png

Even if you don't use Pagid pads, their website has some really useful information about pad shapes and types on it.
 
47
65
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Erlanger, KY
I fully agree with this. Mine made no more noise, and maybe less, than the stock pads on the street. I never swapped mine out after a track day. They do not have an aggressive bite but that is fine with
I have read this thread and others all the way through, so if I missed this, I apologize. Do the RSL29 pads need bedding if I am coming off stock pads? I have a few days coming up at NCM on 10/2-3 and I will be inspecting my stock pads for thickness after they received 3 days at Mid-Ohio, to make sure I am prepared in case I have to do a swap. I do see that KNS Brakes will "bed" pads for $20

I have read much in these threads about replacing the factory DOT 4 fluid with RBF600 DOT 4 and will, even though the factory setup performed well for me and my skill level at Mid-Ohio.

To be honest, with all the front wheel options (Raybestos ST43s, Pagid RSL29 or RST3, G-Loc 16/18s, Hawk DTC60/70, Carbotech, Ferodo DSUNO or D1.11, etc...) it is a bit much. o_O;). I am still considering simply bringing a set of OEM front pads for the next few sessions and dealing with the "upgrade" later, but I understand the OEM pads wear much faster than many of these options.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top