Caster / camber plates

[eng90]

Good day,

i would like to know whats options Whats the best camber/caster plate for my 2013 mustang boss. I have all oem suspension and wheels.

thanks,

 

[Bill Pemberton]

You have a couple of good choices , and one of them is the Vorshlag set-up done by one of the site's Sponsors.....just check on the right side of the Forum. Not sure , but good chance they might even have some Christmas discounts and I believe there is one always if you mention the TMO site ?

 

[j3st3r]

I ran the Vorshlag and loved them, little more expensive, but great quality and setup

 

[67GTA]

The Vorshlag are a modular design as well, so if you upgrade your struts or go to coil overs in the future, it only requires a different spring mount on the bottom side.

 

[eng90]

ok I think I might go for the vorshlag, what options should I select if my car has is a 2013 boss 302 with oem suspension parts ?

 

[eng90]

Guys i need your help with the vorshlag cc plates.

I already had a shop install them and i will start track racing my car in tbe upcoming days.... but i still have no good idea of how to adjust the caster and camber yet.

Can someone who is familiar with vorshlag cc plates just show me how to adjust the camber and how to adjust the caster please ??

Us how many positions of caster and camber do i have ?

Thanx

 

[JDee]

Leave the caster alone just act like it's not there, you don't need any additional caster but you sure do need all the camber you can get. Vorshlag has some good guides on their site.

S197 Mustang camber plate installation - vorshlag

Here's our step-by step install guide for installing S197 Mustang camber plates on our in-house 2011 Mustang GT. First part shows stock springs/struts with our OEM style upper perches (have a good spring compressor). We'll add coilover style camber plate install steps next.

vorshlag.smugmug.com

But in general....

Loosen the top strut/plate nuts a bit and shove the top of the strut as far in towards the engine as it will go, lock it down. Do the same on the other side. That's pretty much it. Now go to an alignment shop to set the toe and tell the alignment guy to report the camber but leave it alone. Toe is a preference thing, maybe start with 1/16" total toe in and see how you like it. You probably can get around -3 to -3.5 degrees camber though I'm not sure whether that holds true with S197, it does with S550. If you want more negative camber get the Vorshlag tool to cut the top out of the strut, that will get you up closer to -4. Talk to them about it. You pretty much never can have too much negative camber with production based cars.

Run your track day, check your tire pressures before and after each session. Get a cheap heat gun to check and record your tire temps on the inside, middle and outside of each tire tread. Write this data down, it's invaluable in setting up your car.

Don't worry about the camber wearing out your tires on the street, it just doesn't happen with track rat cars. You will get better tire life on track with proper negative camber than without and that's far more important than the bit of wear you get on the street.

 

[Stangra]

You pretty much never can have too much negative camber with production based cars

 

[JDee]

View attachment 58799

I did say "pretty much". But I for sure forgot all about those types....cannot imagine why people do stuff like that, it is insane on every level.

 

[nyuk98GT]

eng90,

I'm a little late to the party but I'll offer some info to augment the excellent advice already provided by seasoned TMOers.

There are little index marks (for camber) on the top of the plate. They're kind of hard to see but get a good flashlight and you'll see them. Let me state the obvious and tell you to set both sides to the same mark (say, 3rd one from the fender). You can only move the plates if the suspension is not loaded (unless, of course, you eat your Wheaties every day and hit the gym). Check those index marks after you torque the four nuts (do NOT overitighten these - it's only 17 lb-ft per Vorshlag).

The caster can only be changed by removing the allen bolts, moving the plate, and reinstalling the bolts. The strut has to be removed from the car for this change (at least, I can't see how to change the caster from the top of the strut tower).

HTH,

Chris

 

[eng90]

Whats the caster angle on 2013 boss with oem suspension ? ..

I noticed that vorshlag has three positions with stock caster at the front position and additional +0.5 degree for each of the other two positions closer to the interior cabin.

 

[Norm Peterson]

+7.0°. Apparently it's "officially" slightly different from the non-Boss, which is +7.1°. There's a tolerance of ±0.75° for both sets, so the tenth of a degree difference probably doesn't mean much.

Ford Mustang 1993-2019 Wheel Alignment Specification Data – Otobasic Philippines

otobasic.com

Increasing positive caster above factory preferred may bring on a need for bumpsteer correction.


Norm

 

[xr7]

eng90,

I'm a little late to the party but I'll offer some info to augment the excellent advice already provided by seasoned TMOers.

There are little index marks (for camber) on the top of the plate. They're kind of hard to see but get a good flashlight and you'll see them. Let me state the obvious and tell you to set both sides to the same mark (say, 3rd one from the fender). You can only move the plates if the suspension is not loaded (unless, of course, you eat your Wheaties every day and hit the gym). Check those index marks after you torque the four nuts (do NOT overitighten these - it's only 17 lb-ft per Vorshlag).

The caster can only be changed by removing the allen bolts, moving the plate, and reinstalling the bolts. The strut has to be removed from the car for this change (at least, I can't see how to change the caster from the top of the strut tower).

HTH,

Chris

Caster can be changed with strut in the chassis. I started with max caster and discovered that you can't get much negative camber so I pulled the screws and went with the minumum caster setting, that allowed the max camber. Remove tire, loosen the 4 nuts mounting the strut to the strut tower, long allen screw bit, ball tip even better. Wiggle strut around to get at screws.
I should open up the hole to give me more, but I hate cutting into the car. I should just do it, maybe I'll save the pieces and somebody can weld them back in to return it to stock in the year 2085.

 

[Surfergeek]

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