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CorteX 315 Strut Offset Option

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I have no idea but I've always wondered if there was any negative to getting the offset. I'm going to order it regardless.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
If it's between about 1/4" and 1/2" I'm going to get it. Much more than that and stock type offsets might poke out too much.

Just want to know before I pull the trigger.
 
Grant 302 said:
If it's between about 1/4" and 1/2" I'm going to get it. Much more than that and stock type offsets might poke out too much.

Just want to know before I pull the trigger.
My understanding is strut is "offset" from the spindle and the wheel position is not moved. The problem is clearance between the strut and inside of the tire. Offsetting the strut gives you the clearance you need. Check the 18x10.5 wheels Cortex sells and their offsets.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
NFSBOSS said:
My understanding is strut is "offset" from the spindle and the wheel position is not moved. The problem is clearance between the strut and inside of the tire. Offsetting the strut gives you the clearance you need. Check the 18x10.5 wheels Cortex sells and their offsets.

Thanks, Rick. I think you're right. I ASSumed that both holes were offset the same amount... and that would have decreased static camber and made the top of the wheel potentially poke out. Looking at the pics closer, the top hole is offset less than the bottom, and that just rotates the strut inboard.
 

steveespo

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How does this affect the camber curve as the wheel travels vertically? This stands the strut up more, making the wheel move more straight up and down, I think this would create a more consistent camber and may require less static negative camber than the stock geometry. I may be wrong so would appreciate Filip's input here, I would think it would be a no brainer option if this is the case.
Steve
 
steveespo said:
How does this affect the camber curve as the wheel travels vertically? This stands the strut up more, making the wheel move more straight up and down, I think this would create a more consistent camber and may require less static negative camber than the stock geometry. I may be wrong so would appreciate Filip's input here, I would think it would be a no brainer option if this is the case.
Steve
Last week I asked Filip a related question on my order and specifically on the drop ball joints and bump steer kit and here's his response.

"Yes, you should get the drop ball joints and bump steer kit to go with it. The drop ball joints help manage body roll and camber gain which allows the car to be less stiff and have less static negative camber both of which are a good thing."
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
steveespo said:
How does this affect the camber curve as the wheel travels vertically? This stands the strut up more, making the wheel move more straight up and down, I think this would create a more consistent camber and may require less static negative camber than the stock geometry. I may be wrong so would appreciate Filip's input here, I would think it would be a no brainer option if this is the case.
Steve

The only thing it does is change the 'wheel rate' of the springs and damping.

NFSBOSS said:
Last week I asked Filip a related question on my order and specifically on the drop ball joints and bump steer kit and here's his response.

"Yes, you should get the drop ball joints and bump steer kit to go with it. The drop ball joints help manage body roll and camber gain which allows the car to be less stiff and have less static negative camber both of which are a good thing."

The need for the ball joints + bumpsteer comes from lowering the car. Even on P springs we would benefit from ball joints and bumpsteer kit. It's really 'needed' lower than that. This is one of the main reasons that lowered cars need so much static camber and/or increased strut angle of inclination (SAI) via camber plates.

Stock Boss:
13075860213_2442b2a2b9.jpg

P Springs:
13039067044_9f4c589ba3.jpg

And that's only a ~1/2" drop from stock Boss springs. You can see both tie rod and lower control arm start pointing up. This lowers the roll center and reduces the camber gain.

Could somebody do me a favor and re-post neema's pics? I'd really like to see the difference.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
neema said:
Bah, it worked on my computer when I posted last night. I'll repost in a minute

Thanks! And no worries about re-posting. Just saw copies this afternoon. That's a huge difference! With the way I have my front end setup, I think I could stuff 12" rims in there pretty easily.
 
Grant 302 said:
Thanks! And no worries about re-posting. Just saw copies this afternoon. That's a huge difference! With the way I have my front end setup, I think I could stuff 12" rims in there pretty easily.

pics are rehosted so they should be working in their original post. Do you have flared/pulled fenders?

Below is the best fitment I could get out of running 18x12s in the front. There's a few mm of clearance between the strut and the wheel pokes. No rubbing issues with a Continental 305/660/18, but the wheel can really support a 315-335. I don't think the fender has the room though going with a 335--maybe with a fender pull. IIRC, camber was maxed out at ~2.5º

18x12%2Bfront%2Bfitment%2B-%2B13


18x12%2Bfront%2Bfitment%2B-%2B6


18x12%2Bfront%2Bfitment%2B-%2B12


18x12%2Bfront%2Bfitment%2B-%2B14


18x12%2Bfront%2Bfitment%2B-%2B11
 
Not yet. Still coming back to reality after a long project at work. Didn't have time to do anything fun (and the car needs a lot of TLC). I've heard that Forgestar CF5s or wide (i.e. 12") F14s fit over 15" Stoptechs, so I'm going to sell these Welds and go that direction.
 
neema said:
Not yet. Still coming back to reality after a long project at work. Didn't have time to do anything fun (and the car needs a lot of TLC). I've heard that Forgestar CF5s or wide (i.e. 12") F14s fit over 15" Stoptechs, so I'm going to sell these Welds and go that direction.
Was there much difference between the stock Brembos and the Stoptechs?
 

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