CorteX JRi Single Adjustable Front & Rear Damper Adjustment Settings

[Grant 302]

If the directions are for a stock tire height or about 27", then you could reduce those clearance amounts to the frame points by about 3/4" or 7.5 turns on the collars from where you started.

I went pretty low on the rear, but my LCA rear connections are lowered 4" on the bracket, and I have 350#/in springs.

 

[Fabman]

This is adjusted for the shorter tires, still looks like a truck.
I know it's about geometry and not aesthetics, but my God this thing look hideous.
The rear is easy enough to manipulate, the front is the limiting factor. That and bump travel.
Just wondered how others were dealing with it.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Here's mine on 18's the way CorteX setup my car. I had 450/225 springs. It rode nice on the street and I would firm it up for the track. Between the dampers and watts link it felt like a completely different car.

 

[Fabman]

I have no doubt it will be way faster. Just trying to look good while I'm doing it. (flips hair back like a movie star)
I have addressed a host of other issues as well since the last track day so, I'm optimistic.
There are more updates on my list but I'm trying not to change too much at one time.
It's good to hear from other people what is working for them. I thank you all for your past and future input.
Keep those comments and pictures coming!

 

[VoodooBoss]

Your low profile 30 series tires are always going to have a bit of a gap but it looks like you can go a bit lower.

 

[Fabman]

Yeah, this body style has bigger wheel openings which isn't helping. Right now its lower than this......pix later.

 

[Fabman]

Correction, they are 35 series-not 30.

 

[Grant 302]

Correction, they are 35 series-not 30.

Was pretty sure about that when you said 25.5" tall. I had the same ones. When I was on P springs, they still looked pretty small:

 

[Fabman]

That they are....

 

[Fabman]

Okay, I think I have this where I want it. I am at the very bottom of the recommended settings.
4.75 to 5.25 is the spec provided for the for street. Subtract .75 for the shorter tires and that puts me at 4" which is where I am now.
I may end up raising this if necessary, but for now, that's where I am starting out. Here is what everything looks like:









The rear roll center is set at 9" which is positioned 1.5" lower that the stock mount.






That's my son there checking the oil. Nice that we have the passion for racing in common.


I did have the stock bumpers cut down, but recently bought these super soft bumpers from Maximum Motorsports in hopes that if it does bottom, it will be more progressive when it happens. Thoughts?


Camber is set to -2.75 and toe is .062 out.
Front FRPP sway bar is in the middle hole.
Front springs/shocks: 500/-8 clicks
Rear springs/shocks: 250/-36 clicks

 

[Grant 302]

I think most people this low trim the bump stops. Soft ones are certainly better, and I went an additional step to put a few vertical cuts in mine. In theory, it would be even softer in a turn when only one side makes contact, but still provide enough cushion for potholes.

If I had an ajustable bar up front, I would run it at full stiff when running square. I currently have the stock up front and an 18mm rear bar. Great for the staggered tires I'm running for the street, but a little loose when square (for my taste).

 

[Fabman]

I think most people this low trim the bump stops. Soft ones are certainly better, and I went an additional step to put a few vertical cuts in mine. In theory, it would be even softer in a turn when only one side makes contact, but still provide enough cushion for potholes.

If I had an ajustable bar up front, I would run it at full stiff when running square. I currently have the stock up front and an 18mm rear bar. Great for the staggered tires I'm running for the street, but a little loose when square (for my taste).

"A little loose" would be a nice change. last time out this thing pushed like a tug boat.
I'm hoping it is loose, then the PH bar can start coming down and the sway bar can get stiffer.....but I just tripled the front spring rates and don't want to make too many changes at one time.
I do however, bring tools to the track so I can make adjustments as they become nescessary.

 

[Grant 302]

That makes sense for the GT500 weight over the nose. And yeah, the more you change, the steeper the learning curve for tuning.

I'll look for a review thread after you have it on track!

 

[Fabman]

Track report:
Coilover upgrade

Unfortunately the sway bar attachment failed immediately and ended our day early.
BMR is sending me a new revised part and we should be good to go for the next event on May 8th.

 

[Fabman]

I did however get this dandy picture for my efforts

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Cool picture, sucks about the swaybar bracket. @captdistraction

What track is that?

 

[F.D. Sako]

I remember reading, on another forum, BMR mentioning that their k-member is not recommended for the road racing... that may be old info though. Glad they're taking care of you.

 

[captdistraction]

Strange, that bmr brace looks nothing like mine. The swaybar mount and the under tray mounts are all one wraparound bracket

 

[captdistraction]

Hopefully the revised part holds up better than the op one above

 

[Grant 302]

Cool picture, sucks about the swaybar bracket. @captdistraction

What track is that?

I thought the strap broke reading the email. That's a little worse.

Buttonwillow - Phil Hill IIRC. Probably the biggest pucker moment for me cresting the hill...