Help me build my 3v Auto-X toy

[Murph]

Hello everyone,

I am looking for some help with the next set of mods to my 3v and I feel using this brain trust would be the best place. The local Auto-X here is pretty small, they use their own class system and I essentially can do what ever I want. Unfortunately the events are mostly in smaller lots, so with my mustang on hard summer tires I feel this never shows that these cars can actually be OK at corners.

Car is somewhat daily driven, (hopefully soon to be weekend/fun cruise only)

Current setup.
2006 GT.
Koni 2 way adjustable
Eibach sportline (I think they were the sportlines they are the ones with the smallest drop)
MM Adjustable Panhard bar
Hawk HPS pads
Axle back exhaust
4.10 gears
18x10 SVE Drift rims for Auto-x Tires.


Planning ahead this is what I would like to have done.

New Auto-X tires (Maybe Re-71's or something similar, good and sticky but still get a some decent life from them)
MM LCA relocation bracket
Racing seat (can't decided between Sparco Sprint, or Evo) will be putting the stocker in at times, which makes me think Sprint but I'm also lazy at times so Evo would be nicer if I left it in for a month or so)
4 piston Brembo's with Hawk HP+ or similar pad (will see some track days but not many closest track is 8hr drive)



I can't think of anything else without going too crazy into the deep end with Coilovers etc.


Is there anything else that I am missing? also if it can be somewhat future proof and be able to be moved from this GT to a Coyote powered GT/Boss in the future that would be best.


And why not throw in a photo of the old gal just cause
Thanks in advance.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Frankly your best bet for a bit more speed is to wedge a bigger donut under the fenders. The Solo Nationals were dominated by RE71Rs, Yokohama A052s, and BFG Rival 1.5S tires if needing to run a 200 Treadwear tire. If you truly have a free rein a set of Hoosier A7s on 18x11s would be your secret weapon.

Feel free to drop me a PM ( that goes under conversations on the TMO Forum) or an email at [email protected] for AutoX ideas.

Hopefully Auteaux , member on the site, or DaveW ( another member ) will chime in as they are both serious autocrossers and both run Stangs.

 

[blacksheep-1]

Aluminum flywheel, goat pee on the tires (or A7s), smaller rear bar are 3 things that come to mind immediately

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Blacksheep ........why not sheep wee wee, or even moose whiz on tires, since he is in the Great White North, Aaaaaaaa!?

 

[ChrisM]

@blacksheep-1 is the master and commander. Do as he says. And welcome to a fellow 3v'er!

 

[Bill Pemberton]

No argument there, Blacksheep is the Obi Wan Cam-know-bee of the Mustang set!

 

[blacksheep-1]

appreciate it guys, but there are plenty of guys out there better than me.. He already has the gearing covered and since he mentions that the courses are basically "point and shoot" those are what come to mind.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

So, to translate, BS1 is saying you can skip the " Moose Piss" on your tires , but otherwise you are set to go!!

 

[Murph]

Ha, you mean my night of collecting moose whiz was for not. DANG.

Thank you very much everyone. So I will most likely then look into a v6 rear sway bar. A7's (if I can budget the cost vs life span, if not RE-71 for now probably, 295 or 285 square) and then when the time comes, aluminum flywheel and 1 piece aluminum FRPP driveshaft.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

If you have an extra set of rims the A7s usually will last at least a season for most folks. Now if they are used on the street they are really not a street tire though they meet DOT requirements, and their life would be quite short.

 

[blacksheep-1]

I'd put all the rubber you can fit under that car, that is always the mustangs Achilles heel, we have to run 275 x18 in T3 and T3 and it's very difficult to get them to last the entire race and perform.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Now BS1 , I do believe you have to run 275/18s, because even though you are a likable guy I bet they won't let your team run 375s,ha,ha!?

 

[Murph]

Ha, thats what I was thinking. DAMM 375 thats a big boy tire. I started looking around and have seem to have found a good price on Toyo RR @ 295. (half the price of A7's)


Anyone have thoughts on cheaper racing seat? (steel frame vs fibreglass) They will be FIA certified. I feel a little more safe with the idea of FIA testing if I do end street driving the seat now and then.

 

[blacksheep-1]

yeah, I fixed it 275, I think we started out with 305 and they BoP'd us to death, the biggest we've run is 315s on a mustang
I'd like someone to try those Federal tires or maybe Maxxis, I'd like top know how they work out

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Did not see either brand at the Solo Nationals ( imagine there were some, though) and my job was to check tires to see if they matched the decals on the competitor's car. On a road course I have run into one individual on Maxxis tubes and he was not pleased ( not in a Mustang and you would not want to even try them BS1, as they only go to 275/18s ). We had a new HPDE driver on Federals and he thought they were slippery , yet not a fair assessment, as it was his first time at a road course.

I would let others test these babies, as presently they both seem to only lead by price.

 

[Duane Black]

So it sounds like you're going to run CAM-C. 18X11 wheels with the rival s 1.5 or maybe the Yokohama is the ticket. Ford racing front hubs with the extended studs, and a 25 mm spacer for an apex wheel, or I think forgestar has a set with 2 off sets. Expensive, but wins.

Are you fast enough to win? If not, stay on 18x10 wheels and run the re71r until your certain the grip is a limiting factor. I'm on hankook rs4 because I is broke and need durability.

What's your budget? How serious are you about winning? The 18x11 setup with tires will ultimately end up being 50-100% more expensive

 

[Bill Pemberton]

I would add if you are even fairly serious about winning , then get the right set-up from the beginning if feasible, because once at events you will be able to compare and ask those who have been winning many of the questions you may have. The other reason is human nature, because often those that buy the wrong sizes spend even more after finding they need a wider rim, a better tire.........and they end up buying twice as much as they need. Ask all of us who learned this lesson the hard way.

The trend with CAM-C is going bigger and more tire companies are listening to the numerous requests. As noted when one is in the midst of right at 1400 fellow autocrossers , it is hard not to take notice , observing the fast drivers and their approaches.

 

[Duane Black]

Counter point - he already has the 18x10 wheels.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

He is stating what mods to get, and I am suggesting he go the route he would likely take within a short period. Just an observation from hanging with autocrossers since 1981 , and even helping with the logistics of the Nationals some of those years. I and many of my racing friends often wish we had gotten advice about what to get initially , as we, like others ended up buying way more stuff ( tires and rims) guessing and then finding the need to update. But more importantly it is a huge trend , because talking with many of the Motorsport Directors ( of tire companies ) the requests for wider rubber is number one. CAM is loaded with Mustangs and Camaros and the bulk are going to 305 or 315s. There are two companies without 315s that should have their models out this year. So just suggestions, both yours and mine, and we have both given him things to ponder , not really knowing all the factors that ultimately will influence him.

 

[Murph]

Yes I have the 18x10's right now, however those will most likely be replaced with 18x11 or 19x11 in the future. Those were me trying to get into R-Compounds with the smallest cost barrier.

I for sure am going to need more rubber in the future. Where I am the car classes are not normal (have some 370z's 911's and a lotus Elise that usually show up and I am classed with) I think once I get a Boss 302 or GT350 (5-8 years) I will be able to take these lessons and hopefully some of these parts and transfer to the new mustang.