- Thread starter
- #81
I'm pretty sure they will. The bar is set to work with the stock seat and the two holes so unless your shoulders sit way above the holes I think you'll be fine.
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Watson Racing Roll Bar for 2015+ S550 Mustang and GT350
- Thread starterVoodooBoss
- Start date
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gleek48
Tapatalk User
- 74
- 2
Can I ask a favor for those members who have a bar installed already?
Can you please post a picture of the Recaro seats with the seat positioned about halfway back on the tracks (for a shorter - 7'7" driver)? Before I jump in on the group buy, I want to check the angle of the harness bar to the seat opening for my application.
Thanks!
Can you please post a picture of the Recaro seats with the seat positioned about halfway back on the tracks (for a shorter - 7'7" driver)? Before I jump in on the group buy, I want to check the angle of the harness bar to the seat opening for my application.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #83
My bar arrived yesterday but it will be a few weeks before I get a chance to install it. I'm still waiting on my Ford Performance RSD. @Moto started his install yesterday. If anyone has any tips on the install please post them up. Here's a couple from when I installed my bar in my Boss 302.
If you're not going to be installing and removing the bar regularly there's no need to install the small bolts in the mounting plates. Saves you from drilling four additional holes and the frustration of getting it all lined up.
Make sure your mounting plates match up with the down tubes holes before you start your install. On the S197 bar they didn't line up and I corrected that before I started the install.
For the RSD and drilling the two holes @Black Boss posted approximate specs of where to drill the holes. Has anyone tried this yet and if so were the holes in the right spot? I trust Black Boss but there could be some variances in the mounting of the RSD and roll bar. Moto had the idea of drilling the holes (using a hole saw) that match plastic caps so that if the bar is ever removed you can cover the holes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331549671185?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=540706751509&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
If you're not going to be installing and removing the bar regularly there's no need to install the small bolts in the mounting plates. Saves you from drilling four additional holes and the frustration of getting it all lined up.
Make sure your mounting plates match up with the down tubes holes before you start your install. On the S197 bar they didn't line up and I corrected that before I started the install.
For the RSD and drilling the two holes @Black Boss posted approximate specs of where to drill the holes. Has anyone tried this yet and if so were the holes in the right spot? I trust Black Boss but there could be some variances in the mounting of the RSD and roll bar. Moto had the idea of drilling the holes (using a hole saw) that match plastic caps so that if the bar is ever removed you can cover the holes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331549671185?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=540706751509&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I know this is an old thread, but does anyone happen to know if Watson Racing will deviate from the standard construction?
I'm after a bolt in 4 point bar that will let me keep the kiddos car seats installed in the rear with a removable cross bar for harness attachment.
My plan is to install a Sparco EVO III and use the factory 3 point day to day and a 5 point at the track with the harness bar installed
I'm after a bolt in 4 point bar that will let me keep the kiddos car seats installed in the rear with a removable cross bar for harness attachment.
My plan is to install a Sparco EVO III and use the factory 3 point day to day and a 5 point at the track with the harness bar installed
- Thread starter
- #85
Highly doubtful but it can't hurt to ask.
OPMustang Tim
Supporting Vendor
No, pull the bar out if you are going to carry passengers in the vehicle. The potential for hard contact from any of the bars during an accident has the potential to cause major injuries. Also with a cross bar removed in an accident will compromise the structure of the bar and could cause more harm than good plus it's not just a cross bar, there is a diagonal brace.
Yea, I've resigned to going without a bar at this time. I'll probably end up doing the schroth quick fit since I won't have a bar to hook it to, and sparco evo iii. since I really want to get my head further away from the roof anyway.
I had to remove mine before the insurance adjuster looked at the car and I think it took all of 15 minutes to remove. I have to believe 30 minutes to reinstall?? Pretty quick IMO
and I think it took all of 15 minutes to remove. I have to believe 30 minutes to reinstall?? Pretty quick IMO
I've taken forever to get this roll bar project done. Finally took the car apart today.
I've got long-ish legs and with HANS, I couldn't recline the seat enough for comfort. The extra thickness of both the helmet and the HANS pitched my head too far down in a standard Watson bar. Discovered this when I went to the Track Attack class... Could have gone the Cool Tech route, but didn't. Pros and cons to both designs. Optimum Performance had bars that were bare steel at a good price.
Anyway, the horizontal tube on the driver's side of the diagonal was removed and a new tube grafted on that is kicked back more.
The mod looks like it did the trick for me. The seat back is nearly resting on the cross tube.
I don't think people using racing seats would run in to this. It just that the stock GT350 Recaros are very thick.
The install had taken longer than I would like and it will all have to come out to paint it now that I've confirmed the configuration will work as hoped.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I've got long-ish legs and with HANS, I couldn't recline the seat enough for comfort. The extra thickness of both the helmet and the HANS pitched my head too far down in a standard Watson bar. Discovered this when I went to the Track Attack class... Could have gone the Cool Tech route, but didn't. Pros and cons to both designs. Optimum Performance had bars that were bare steel at a good price.
Anyway, the horizontal tube on the driver's side of the diagonal was removed and a new tube grafted on that is kicked back more.
The mod looks like it did the trick for me. The seat back is nearly resting on the cross tube.
I don't think people using racing seats would run in to this. It just that the stock GT350 Recaros are very thick.
The install had taken longer than I would like and it will all have to come out to paint it now that I've confirmed the configuration will work as hoped.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
- Thread starter
- #90
Nice work.
Holy crap, without a helper it takes a long time to get the nut plates in place. I fed a long tie wrap through one of the nut plate bolt holes and through the floor pan. Kind of rest it on top of the brake lines and other junk you have to be careful not to drill through under the car. Then pull the tie wrap up from inside the car and start a bolt.
The rear holes are very finicky. I even chamfered one edge of the nut plate that faces the bend radius of the sheet metal cross beam. There's not much margin for error and the spot welds you use as your guide were not centered in my car.
Ugh... now it has to come out to paint it. At least the nut plates won't be going anywhere.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
The rear holes are very finicky. I even chamfered one edge of the nut plate that faces the bend radius of the sheet metal cross beam. There's not much margin for error and the spot welds you use as your guide were not centered in my car.
Ugh... now it has to come out to paint it. At least the nut plates won't be going anywhere.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
This was quite a bit more involved than I was thinking before I started this project.
It's done except trimming some carpet in the trunk and double checking things under the car. Literally the last bolt gave me a headache. I thought the rear down tube bolt had started but it pushing the nut plate away. So, the plate had to removed, straightened and reinstalled.
I'm going to try to use two seat belt harness brackets made for a S197 body as separate lap and submarine mounting points. Actually four brackets, two per seat bolt mount at 90 degrees from each other. It looks promising. I think somebody may may a purpose built item for this but I'll see how this goes.
It's done except trimming some carpet in the trunk and double checking things under the car. Literally the last bolt gave me a headache. I thought the rear down tube bolt had started but it pushing the nut plate away. So, the plate had to removed, straightened and reinstalled.
I'm going to try to use two seat belt harness brackets made for a S197 body as separate lap and submarine mounting points. Actually four brackets, two per seat bolt mount at 90 degrees from each other. It looks promising. I think somebody may may a purpose built item for this but I'll see how this goes.
As a public service, after you install this roll bar you should check the clearance between the hard brake lines (moved out of the way during installation) and the new protruding bolts. Once you push the brake line clip in place again, it's pretty tight. I pushed a sliced rubber hose over the brake line on each side as an insulator.
- Thread starter
- #95
Great tip, thanks for sharing.
- 31
- 5
I'm also a tall driver. Is your seat all the way back when you drive? Is it upright or somewhat reclined??
I'm concerned about the clearance with the Watson bar.
I'm concerned about the clearance with the Watson bar.
- Thread starter
- #97
I'm 6'2"+ and I don't have a problem using the stock seats and WR roll bar in my GT350. I don't have a lot of extra room but I'm able to have some recline in the seat while driving on the street. I use a more NASCAR sitting style while on track and usually move my seat back into a more upright position.
My seat is not all the way back about two clicks forward. This car is probably the only vehicle I've ever owned that I didn't move the seat back the entire way...
It's only with a HANS device that I had an issue. I have to recline the seat more when you add the extra thickness of both the helmet and the HANS device. With just a helmet, I was ok.
An aftermarket seat probably would not have the problem either.
In the end, I probably only saved a hundred bucks by modifying the bare steel Watson rather than buying the Cool-Tech.
I took quite a bit of time minimizing the amount of trimming interior panels and the R seat delete. All in all this was three days of work doing it by myself without a lift.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
For those of you keep the stock Recaros, what type of seat-belt/harness arrangement are you using? It appears the only viable options with the stock recaros are the stock seat belt or the Schroth 4-point ASM, which is still frowned upon even with the ASM. Also the pictures in the thread were all Photobucket hosted so they're no longer visible, making it harder to tell. Thanks.
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