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Your Thoughts on my build.

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598
536
I have almost wrapped up on my build (yeah, I know.) Maybe one or two things to change, like Strano's 35mm front sway bar so I can use BMR's billet aluminum sway bar mount and Delrin bushings to free up some bind. The other thing I might change out are the front control arm bushings over to the Boss 302S bushings just to have them, it's a want not a need.

So here's what I have. Tell me what you think. 7 year build. 2011 Mustang GT Daily driver/track car.

Suspension,

Front:
Cortex RJI #CFS-40-1000-JRI-SA Single Adjustable Struts.
Maximum Motorsports #Mm5CC-5 Caster/Camer Plates.
Eibach Coil Over Springs, 0800-250-0500, 500lb/in.
Watson Racing/Howe Extended Screw In Ball Joint.
Ford Racing #M-3200-EPAS Boss 302R Electric Steering Rack.
Ford Racing #M-3130-R4 Boss 302S Bumpsteer Kit.
Prothane Front Control Arm Bushings Front and Rear.
Watson Racing Adjustable Sway bar End Link Left Side.
Moog #K80899 Non-Adjustable Sway Bar End Link Right Side.
Eibach 36mm 3-Way Adjustable Sway Bar (Middle Hole).

Rear:
Cortex JRI #SHK-40-1000-JRI-SA Single Adjustable Shocks.
Eibach Coil Over Springs, 0800-250-0300 300lb/in.
Cortex #CTA-40-1000 Torque Arm.
Cortex #CWL-40-2000 Watts Link.
Maximum Motorsports #Mm5RLCA-52 Aluminum Rear Control Arms.
Watson Racing 1/2" Sway Bar.

Brakes,

Front:
Ford Racing #M-2353-C Gen 1 Boss 302R\302S ABS Module.
Ford Racing #M-2300-A FR500C/S Brembo 4 Piston Calipers.
Ford Racing #M-2300-A FR500C/S Brembo 14" Slotted 2-Piece Rotors.
Ford Racing 2010 Boss 302R 4" Brake cooling Kit.
Girodisc Titanium Pad Shields
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Hawk HP+ Brake Pads.

Rear:
Ford GT500 14" Rotors.
Ford GT500/Boss 302 Rear Calipers.
Aluminum 14" Brake Caliper Adapter Brackets.
Russels Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
No Backing Plates.
Hawk HP+ Brake Pads.

Engine,
Ford Racing 2014 Aluminator N/A Motor.
Ford Racing #M-9424-M50BR Boss 302 Intake Manifold.
Prothane #PT-6505 Urethane Motor Mounts
Mishimoto 3-core Aluminum Radiator.
Moroso Aluminum Road Race Oil Pan.
MMR Rear Head Coolent Cross Over Kit.
Boss 302 Oil Cooler.
Mishimoto Thermostatic Sandwich Plate 180*
Setreb 924 Oil Cooler.

Transmission,
Stock Ford MT82.
Barton Short Throw Shifter.
Barton 2 Post Rear Trans Mount.
MGW Shifter Arm Bushings.
Exedy Mach 500 Stage 3 Clutch.
Exedy Lightweight Racing Flywheel.
Exedy Hydraulic Throwout Bearing/Slave Cylinder.
Ford 13-14 Shelby Clutch Master Cylinder
Steeda Clutch Assist Spring
Ford Racing 3.5 Aluminum Drive Shaft.

Rear End,
Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differential.
Ford OEM 3.73 Gears.

Exhaust,
Boss 302 H-pipe W/side pipes.
Ford Racing GT500 Mufflers.

Rims and Tires:
Street: 4 18x10 Silver AMR Wheel Wheels.
275-40-18 Nexen N FERA SUR4G.

Track: 4 2007 Shelby GT500 18x9.5.
275-35-18 Toyo RR racing tires.

Exterior:
Tiger Racing Hood.
4 Watson Racing Hood Pins.
Boss 302R Front Grill (Street).
Saleen Front Grill (Track).
Boss 302R Wing (Grand Sport, Steeda Wing).

Interior:
Ford Racing Recaro Seats.
Ford Racing LS Rear Seat Delete.
Watson Racing 4 Point Roll Bar.
Boss 302 Dash.
Ford Racing LS Gauge Pod.
Roush Vent Pod.
Ford Racing Gauges:
Water Temp.
Oil Pressure.
Oil Temp.
DPic.
Crow 5 Point Harness (Driver Only).
 
Tri-bar, I am surely impressed with the time, commitment, expense, mod list, and dedication you have invested to improve your ride to where you want it to be. That is awesome! I just hope you still have the energy left to enjoy it now.......Whew!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I’ll respond with comments tomorrow but don’t forget photos of your car.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Awesome dual-purpose build! I thought my car was half-done...now it feels like only one-third! ;)

I know brakes are a personal choice, but the only thing I'd change would be the HP+ pads. I thought they ate rotors and were loud even on the street.
 
598
536
Grant,
I have been running HP+ pad for a while and yes they made noise in the past. I'm not sure why but this set has not made a peep. They have been very good on my rotors past and present. The set of Hawks that killed my Rotors were the Race/Street pad that just came out. They ate a set in days.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
What a great build! Makes me feel like I have a long way to go..... And much money to spend!! Would have to agree with Grant though, I think the car will be significantly faster with a better set of pads. I have seen my competitors drop over a second when they upgraded from Hawk plus to Carbotech race pads. I love Pagid pads though I do have a set of Glocs waiting to be tried..... its that the dam Pagid pads last for ever! :)

My pet subject would be to do everything you can to make the MT82 safe, before you really start using it. I really like the MGW race spec shifter. I would like to add a oil cooler to the tranny.

Also you dont mention if you have a tune?? Really like my AED tune. Cars is significantly faster now.
 
598
536
Mad Hatter,
Funny you bring up the MT-82. It's one of the only things on the car that is still original and with a over 10000 miles on it and a great number of track days it held up well. I have already started using it hard, been for awhile. When I blow it up though, notice I said when lol. I'm thinking a TH6060.

I do like the HP+ pads, for my braking style, I brake late, hard and off the brakes, for that the initial grab is great, as long as you don't ride them long they hold up well, I have out braked guys who have better pad set ups than I do. I must say though, I really do like the idea of the Pagid pads, when I change rotor rings, the Pagids will be going on.

I will one day get a AED tune, but for now it's just a Bama.
 
598
536
The set up listed above is after a long list of parts that I have tried and tested .

Caster/Camber plates.
Roush/KW - Coil overs
J&M - Stock style springs
Maximum Motorsports -coil over & stock style springs

Struts/Shocks,
Roush/KW Track Pac set up with 515lbs front 400lbs rear springs, and other rates.
Koni yellow sports struts/shocks with Ford Racing P springs.
Koni Yellow sports struts/shocks with the Maximum Motorsports Road and track spring.
Roush/KW fronts with Cortex Koni rear coil overs all kind of spring rates
Roush/KW fronts JRI rears with all kind of spring rates
Roush fronts with Ford Racing Boss 302s Sachs rear double adjustable coil overs with 500lbs front 300lbs rear.
Bilstein HD Strut/Shocks with Maximum Motorsport road and track springs.
Bilstein HD struts with the front MM springs and Jri rear Coil overs with 200lbs (Was really nice)
JRI singles Strut/Shocks with 500lbs fronts and 300lbs rear.

Lower rear control arms,
J&M lower rear control arm - Poly Ball bushings
Ford Racing Boss 302r lower arms - Poly bushings
Ford Racing Boss 302s lower arms - Bearings
Scott Drake adjustable lower arms - poly/Rod end (junk)
Freedom Racing double adjustable lower arms - Rod ends
Kenny Brown aluminum double adjustable lower arms - Rod ends
Maximum Motorsports aluminum double adjustable lower arms - Rod ends

Upper rear control arms,
Stock OEM ford
BMR non-adjustable - Poly
Kenny Brown U-link rear control arm module
RTR Tactical Performance Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm
Hotchkis Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm (best upper IMHO after replacing the cheap rod end)
Cortex Torque arm.

Panhard bars,
J&M aluminum double adjustable - poly/poly
J&M steel adjustable (Ford racing style) - poly/poly
Cortex 1st gen Watts link - Rod ends
Ford Racing Boss 302R - poly/poly
Kenny Brown Roll Center Relocation Kit -rod ends
Steeda comp adjustable - rod ends (BIGGEST MISTAKE)
Cortex 2nd Gen Watts link - Poly/rod ends

Anti-squat brackets, * none on the car at present*
Ford racing Boss 302s (wielded on and cut off)
Kenny Brown 1st gen
Kenny Brown 2nd gen
Ford Racing Boss 302s (replacement)
 
Looking good and thanks for adding all the parts you’ve tested. Great build!

I was also going to comment on the HP+ pads. They worked a lot better than stock but the Pagid RS29 pads I use we’re noticeably better and didn’t overheat. They are also quiet on the street. Lots of options out there.

I ran 450F and 250R springs on my JRi dampers and they worked surprisingly well on the street but I always felt more spring might have been better on track. How do your stiffer springs feel on track?

I’d consider more wheel and tire for track use.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
That is a pretty comprehensive build!

I second the suggestion for more wheel and more tire--more tire will make a big difference.
Surprised you are getting away with the HP+ pads.

You may need additional oil cooler capacity as time goes on and you get faster and faster. :)
 
598
536
Looking good and thanks for adding all the parts you’ve tested. Great build!

I was also going to comment on the HP+ pads. They worked a lot better than stock but the Pagid RS29 pads I use we’re noticeably better and didn’t overheat. They are also quiet on the street. Lots of options out there.

I ran 450F and 250R springs on my JRi dampers and they worked surprisingly well on the street but I always felt more spring might have been better on track. How do your stiffer springs feel on track?

I’d consider more wheel and tire for track use.

The RS29's have been on my radar for a while and do plan on swapping when I have to change rotors. That's been thanks to your use of them and reporting back how they have been working. I had a small stock of F40-F50 Brembo pads to use up. PFC 01 race compound, EBC Blue Stuff pads and Brembo Stock pads and the HP+'s once gone, Pagids, here I come!

The springs rates you had on the Boss and the set I use aren't a big spread. I only run 300lbs in the rear because my sway bar choice. I tried 200-225 lbs rear spring with a 18mm-20mm sway and it felt good as well. The ride was very smooth and roll was under control and grip levels where all about the same coming off corner. The smaller sway bar and stiffer spring lets me roll over the curbing a little better with out upsetting the car. I also have less roll and dive now but that's not just a function of my spring rates. The torque arm has a hand in reducing roll and dive too.

The one thing no one has noticed, I don't have Anti-squat brackets on the car.
If I run the anti-squat brackets I get so much rear grip that the front wants to push, you just can't dive into the corner without getting mid corner push.
I let the torque arm handle the squat, dive and roll and the control arms handle the roll steer, with the angle of the arms in the stock location I get roll under steer, but it lessens the push and make the car easier to drive fast. By using the Maximum Motorsports, Kenny Brown or Cortex control arms with the off set mounting geometry helps to off set push even more. No matter how much grip I tried to tune into the front, it was never enough, more camber didn't work, less front bar, it would still push, the roll center ball joints helped but it was still not enough. Only taking off the Anti-squat brackets did things come into balance.
If you can stab the throttle and roll onto power without the car doing stupid stuff like kicking out off corner or pushing you into the outside of the exit, how much rear grip do you need ? And that bring me to Wheels and Tires.

I would love to go with more Wheel and Tire. I would love to get 18 x 11's and 305-315's. I have the set up for it now and really like the Apex Wheel. I just can't right now buy a whole set of wheels and tires. I might buy one at a time and save them up though. I set up the car for what I get to use for now. That brings me to this, In my mind anyway. How much do you need really ? I can run my setup really hard and my tires aren't giving anything up any more. (Me being loose at Sonoma last time was a function of to much rebound in the left shock. It was set to full stiff when the right side was 4 clicks from soft. I did kick my race engineer in the ass over that one.)

This is me just asking the question. If I don't lose front or rear grip and the car reacts to my inputs the way I need them to, then how is more tire going to help ? As of right now, I have the car tuned to use my tiny little tires well. The only thing I can think of is with more tire I can roll into power sooner and harder than I can now, which is pretty high. Maybe be easier to drive? I guess what I'm trying to ask, when do you have too much grip ? Or can you ever have to much grip ?
 
I've read many good reports of the PFC 01's. The Pagid's are expensive and must be bedded properly but they last a good while and are fairly easy on rotors. I use them mainly because I'm lazy and don't want to swap back and fourth between street and track pads.

A square 305 or 315 setup is a winning combo on the S197 platform. Maybe move up to 295's first from your 275's. I'm no setup expert but if your car is balanced on a square 275 setup I would imagine it would be fairly balanced with more rubber as long as your retain a square setup.

@ArizonaBOSS , @Tri-bar is already going pretty fast!
 
598
536
I've read many good reports of the PFC 01's. The Pagid's are expensive and must be bedded properly but they last a good while and are fairly easy on rotors. I use them mainly because I'm lazy and don't want to swap back and fourth between street and track pads.

A square 305 or 315 setup is a winning combo on the S197 platform. Maybe move up to 295's first from your 275's. I'm no setup expert but if your car is balanced on a square 275 setup I would imagine it would be fairly balanced with more rubber as long as your retain a square setup.

@ArizonaBOSS , @Tri-bar is already going pretty fast!
Thanks for the fast remark. I really do like the Apex wheels. If I get a set then I can get 15" 6 piston calipers and then get.... IT STARTS ALL OVER !
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Too your comment .... " If I don't lose front or rear grip and the car reacts to my inputs the way I need them to, then how is more tire going to help ?"

Thats a nice place to be!! but it will not last long! Most of the time brakes and grip are more important then Hp in getting a good lap time. And seat time even more so!! But never can have to much grip.... if the car is not sliding yet ....Go Faster!!

In your post you dont say what your goals for you and the car are....
 
598
536
My Goals are Simple, Enjoy the car. I have done the wheel to wheel thing, I started in Rally in Europe in 1979 been running cars ever since in one form or another.. As for the car. It's now a very easy car to drive fast. I don't need much more than that. I'm not slow now....lol.
 

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