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S550 GT350R Race Car Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

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Black Boss, I have a few questions regarding alignment for your race car.

Are you using a local shop or doing it yourself?
We have similar setup with MM plates and FPP springs, sway bars. Similar size wheels and slicks. Can you share your starting alignment values or any recommendations?
 
GT350R specs/My current R settings/My Race Car plan are as follows:
Front Camber -1.75*/-2.05*/-2.20*
Front Toe 0.06*/0.0/0.0
Rear Camber -1.25*/-1.35*/-1.50*
Rear Toe 0.30*/0.30*/0.30*

My plan is a starting point based on experience with my R. You will not get more than 2.0-2.1* of front camber with the strut brace/K brace in place as the bolts restrict adjustment. 2.0* will likely be fine.
 
Got back from vacation and had my son help with some of the tough to get to nuts for the driver heat shield install. :)

Also traced the wires for the mode and menu navigation buttons on the steering wheel so I can switch to a race wheel and maintain the ability to select track mode and access the other menu items.

It's tough because there's a control module in the column, so there are far fewer wires in the IP than on the wheel -- had to trace them through the clock spring. 2 of them, Yellow and Black go to the dash harness, so they are easy, the remainder go to the integrated control module connector directly behind/from the clock spring -- that will be a tougher challenge. o_O

Left my notes on the other wire colors/pin numbers at the shop. Will post up tomorrow.
 
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
Hopefully you can trace them and it'll go smoothly. I had a look at the service manual and there's no actual connection schematic for the SCCM - it's referred to in many places, but there's no drawing that brings it together. It looks like the steering wheel switches are "multiplexed" in that depending on which switch is pressed, there's single wire with a unique analog voltage that corresponds to that switch. The SCCM converts that voltage to digital, looks up what it's supposed to do and sends the appropriate CAN bus message to the module that has to do the work. The good news is that once you figure out which wire has the voltages for the functions you're planning to implement, and which exact voltages you need, you can come up with a way to have new switches mounted in a convenient location send those voltages to the module. The bad news is that you can't get by without the module.

Good luck!
 
Hopefully you can trace them and it'll go smoothly. I had a look at the service manual and there's no actual connection schematic for the SCCM - it's referred to in many places, but there's no drawing that brings it together. It looks like the steering wheel switches are "multiplexed" in that depending on which switch is pressed, there's single wire with a unique analog voltage that corresponds to that switch. The SCCM converts that voltage to digital, looks up what it's supposed to do and sends the appropriate CAN bus message to the module that has to do the work. The good news is that once you figure out which wire has the voltages for the functions you're planning to implement, and which exact voltages you need, you can come up with a way to have new switches mounted in a convenient location send those voltages to the module. The bad news is that you can't get by without the module.

Good luck!

91dcd6acb2c4b9878968cee247d6a34a.jpg
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Here's a summary of how to retain Steering wheel controls.

Remove switch assembly from Steering Wheel (I also un-plugged the cruise control switch):
fullsizeoutput_da7.jpeg
Remove Clock Spring:
fullsizeoutput_da9.jpeg
Connect Black wire (Pin 1) and Yellow wire (Pin 11) from the Switch connector, to Pin 1 (Violet/Grey wire) and pin 4 (Black/Blue wire) of Dash harness to Clock spring connector:
fullsizeoutput_d96.jpeg

fullsizeoutput_dab.jpeg

Now the tough part. The remaining switch wires need to be connected to the 10 pin socket, which is integral to the SCCM behind the removed clock spring (top left):

fullsizeoutput_d98.jpeg
Counting from the center, out left, connect as follows:
#1: Purple
#2: Red
#3: Orange
#4: Brown
#5: Blue
#6: Green
#7-9: X
#10: White (to Horn switch)

I have not completed this step yet -- two options, neither ideal:
1) Try to solder conventional wires to the 10 pin plug removed from the clock spring ribbon, or
2) Use the complete ribbon, (removed from inside the clock spring)
Either way the clock spring has to be dis-assembled

Here's the ribbon removed from the clock spring together with both connectors that have to be cut out:

fullsizeoutput_db1.jpeg

The disadvantage of option 1) is that the 10 pin connector is very small to make 7 solder joints. The disadvantage of option 2 is that the ribbon is delicate, especially in the 2 locations where it was folded at 45* to enter/exit the housing.

I'm going to sleep on it, but will use the ribbon approach at least to test.

Any other ideas? Finding a substitute 10 pin connector would be ideal....
 
This is exactly the problem. Everything goes through the clock spring.
You could make a new harness and adapt 2 new plugs. Or leave it all together and tuck it behind the dash and mount the switches. It’s safe, dependable and simple.
Spartan is doing this.

What does the back of the black ribbon plug look like?
Can it be opened?



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