Yes the 11' wide fronts are tough on tight spots but turn in is awesome sorry about the typo 11" seems more like it . I've never tried any calibration so it was run as received from DSC . I had an issue with the first controller ( wrong software installed ) and it freaked out pretty much everything on my car . I'm new on this forum not sure how to make a private mail setting ?
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DSC Sport Suspension Tuning for MRC
- Thread starterVoodooBoss
- Start date
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I would encourage you to take JAJ up on his generous offer ASAP. He has painstakingly gone through over 100 recalibrations just in the normal (comfort) mode. The results are impressive.
Thanks we are working on it . Car is in hibernation at the moment and for a few more months so there would be no way for me to test it but I do want to improve my street "feel" in the car . A lot of very twisty back roads where I live and you can't push the car due to people on the wrong side of the road , animals , etc so they are fun but not driven aggressively enough to stiffen up the shocks especially if the road has undulations in it . Goal is to make car feel a little more "tied down " in those situations . It appeared excellent at Watkins Glen so that part is at least somewhat in line .
I have an autocross calibration that I've work with DSC sport. I can't put too much info out without their permission, because it has other new features in this new calibration, but it seems as though the best way to correct this immediately is to zero out the velocity table. This will bring the car back to feeling almost like stock but still retain better compliance. My velocity table is tweaked for autocross from being zero'ed out.
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I checked my firmware version today. It says Ver GT350 2.1 8-28-17 enc *65535*
Is this the latest version?
Is this the latest version?
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Apparently it wasn't. I just went through the firmware update process and it now says: Ver GT350 2.1 11-13-17 enc 3mode. I thought the latest was supposed to be Version 3 or is that what this is?
They seem to do their internal versioning the same way as most software companies - there's a public facing "product version" like "Windows 7" and then there's the internal software rev number which is there so the developers can keep track of what's what. The 11-13-17 software was released when "V3" was announced to the public, so as far as I can tell, it's "V3" from the product standpoint.
The version that I have now has what DSC calls digital bump-stop that are tune-able. in order to install it, the car has to be on a completely flat surface, so that the ride height is learned and calibrated for the bump-stop. The rest of the programming is suited to my autocross setup, which I'm happy to share what that setup is, but the map itself would need to come from DSC sport.
They can also help in dialing out the floatiness. In my version the car is completely lockdown without the bouncy feeling of the stock unit. I did several back to back comparison just to be sure.
They can also help in dialing out the floatiness. In my version the car is completely lockdown without the bouncy feeling of the stock unit. I did several back to back comparison just to be sure.
Which version of the firmware does your unit have? The important part of the version is the date, not the rest of it.
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DSC just released new firmware today. Can't wait to get home and try it out.
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New firmware + Jay calibration is a major upgrade.
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Wonder if the controller would work in stand alone mode
I'd happily answer your question, except I'm not sure I understand it - the controller has the same 3 modes as the factory one - Comfort, Sport and Track. When it's in operation, it's locked away in the trunk and it is a complete replacement for the factory controller. The only time you connect it to a laptop is when you're changing the programming. Once it's programmed, you just start the car and drive, just like the factory controller.Wonder if the controller would work in stand alone mode
What I'm asking/saying is can it run without the factory CAN system, i.e. in a GT that has the Magneride dampers and level sensors..
Got it! I checked the website and they offer a "Restomod" version that's stand-alone. It's marketed by RideTech, and you'd have to contact them to find out what's involved. It won't be cheap though - the module uses signals from a variety of sources that the OEM setup provides over the CAN bus. Things like brake pressure, accel pedal position, lateral and for-aft G forces, vehicle speed and so on all come to the module from CAN, so they have to be wired in with separate sensors to install a controller into a car that's not set up for it.
I'm thinking that the IPC/ABS modules from a 2018 Level 2 GT PP are how I can adapt those dampers to a non Mag Ride car using FORScan.
Ok, now I'm back to being confused. Here's what I think you're trying to do - to take a 2015+ GT that doesn't have magride and add magride to it by replacing the IPC and ABS modules with modules from a magride-equipped 2018 and installing a DSC Sport controller. Is this correct?
Here's the way to think about it if I'm correct: if your car is a new GT with an OEM magride installation, the DSC controller *should* just plug in and work the same as it would on a GT350. However. if your car was not equipped with magride from the factory, then you've got some serious wiring to do, because the wiring harness has a lot more wires and a massive 47 pin connector to connect to the magride controller module. You'll probably need to replace harnesses 13A840 and 14A005 to get the wiring (and more importantly, the impossible-to-buy-separately connectors) with harnesses intended for a model equipped the way you intend to end up. Once that little chore is out of the way, the IPC/ABS swap and a bunch of as-built coding might just get the job done.
Here's the way to think about it if I'm correct: if your car is a new GT with an OEM magride installation, the DSC controller *should* just plug in and work the same as it would on a GT350. However. if your car was not equipped with magride from the factory, then you've got some serious wiring to do, because the wiring harness has a lot more wires and a massive 47 pin connector to connect to the magride controller module. You'll probably need to replace harnesses 13A840 and 14A005 to get the wiring (and more importantly, the impossible-to-buy-separately connectors) with harnesses intended for a model equipped the way you intend to end up. Once that little chore is out of the way, the IPC/ABS swap and a bunch of as-built coding might just get the job done.
It’s a good thing my company builds custom harnesses for Ford and GM cars, lol Most Ford connectors are easy for us to source.
The Dynamic stability controller is pretty simple compared to the engine harnesses I’ve built. It’s basically 6 sensors, 4 dampers, HS CAN and power. The wiring is the easy part the as built stuff is the challenge.
The Dynamic stability controller is pretty simple compared to the engine harnesses I’ve built. It’s basically 6 sensors, 4 dampers, HS CAN and power. The wiring is the easy part the as built stuff is the challenge.
Aha! Now that's a real advantage! Getting the connectors and knowing how to install them is magic for a project like this.
The module connections are HS2 CAN, power (lots of it - 2 amps per corner plus the electronics), 8 wires for the shocks and 8 more for the four 3-wire ride height sensors. I missed the wiring for the ride height sensors in my earlier message, so to use the factory parts, you need four wiring harnesses: 14290, 14B102, 13A840 and 14A005. The first two have wires for the height sensors, the second pair have wires for the shocks and the 47 pin plug with power, ground and HS2 CAN. From looking at the wiring diagram, the as-built programming might be a bit complex.
In terms of as-built changes, it looks like steering wheel switches tell the SCCM to switch modes, the SCCM tells the IPC to switch modes and then the IPC tells the suspension module and ABS to switch modes. Which doesn't sound difficult, except that the SCCM, ABS and the suspension module are on HS2 CAN and the IPC is on HS3 CAN, and it looks like the messages pass through the Gateway Module from one CAN segment to the other. This might involve as-built changes to the SCCM, the IPC and the Gateway Module to get it all to work. The mode switch signals also go to the ABS module over HS2, so the as-built changes have to be done in a way that doesn't compromise the ABS module's ability to operate.
The module connections are HS2 CAN, power (lots of it - 2 amps per corner plus the electronics), 8 wires for the shocks and 8 more for the four 3-wire ride height sensors. I missed the wiring for the ride height sensors in my earlier message, so to use the factory parts, you need four wiring harnesses: 14290, 14B102, 13A840 and 14A005. The first two have wires for the height sensors, the second pair have wires for the shocks and the 47 pin plug with power, ground and HS2 CAN. From looking at the wiring diagram, the as-built programming might be a bit complex.
In terms of as-built changes, it looks like steering wheel switches tell the SCCM to switch modes, the SCCM tells the IPC to switch modes and then the IPC tells the suspension module and ABS to switch modes. Which doesn't sound difficult, except that the SCCM, ABS and the suspension module are on HS2 CAN and the IPC is on HS3 CAN, and it looks like the messages pass through the Gateway Module from one CAN segment to the other. This might involve as-built changes to the SCCM, the IPC and the Gateway Module to get it all to work. The mode switch signals also go to the ABS module over HS2, so the as-built changes have to be done in a way that doesn't compromise the ABS module's ability to operate.
How about trade and buy a car with MagnaRide. Has to be cheaper and easier than all that work.
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