Thinking about pulling the trigger on cortex watts link and torque arm. I only track it 3 to 4 times a year just like the stable feeling the provide. Just looking for any advice on these.
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Did you install yourself? If not about what was the cost?+1 on the CorteX watts and Torque Arm. Flattens out the car and really plants the car.
Did you install yourself? If not about what was the cost?
Thanks man. I do have some handy friends.The watts is a bolt-in affair. If you have a capable friend maybe you can get them to install it for beer and pizza...
What I really like about the CorteX watts is the ease of adjustment and also each position in the roll center adjustment can be felt as an actionable change to the car's on-throttle steering and power-down characteristics.
Thank youHere are the installation sheets for the Watts and Torque Arm, so you can see what you are getting in to. I haven't installed a torque arm before, but other than the drilling the ears of the differential housing it looks very simple; and the way they have you set everything else up first makes it seem like that drilling activity will be fairly foolproof (but will take some time to get through all the material).
It's not that hard really, especially if it's done on a lift. Just follow the directions and you are good to go. Pinion angle is pre set in the geometry of the torque arm. Again, follow the directions are you will be fine.Im not a great mechanic. Most shops want around 800 to 1000 to do the install. I really don't want to spend that but I don't want to mess it up.
Cortex preset my LCA length for Torque Arm/ T spring, everything bolted up, no adjustment for Pinion angle, was told Torque Arm set this right. I suppose you could adjust by shimming the ears where it bolts to Diff. The stock UCA/third link is a little difficult to remove , you need a very large wrench with cheater bar to loosen the bolt under the rear seat.
... What I really like about the CorteX watts is the ease of adjustment and also each position in the roll center adjustment can be felt as an actionable change to the car's on-throttle steering and power-down characteristics.
Lower the pivot to tighten the car up, raise it to loosen it up. That's it in a nutshell.I'd sure like to learn more about how to explore those watts adjustments, but I'm fortunate enough to be able to have CorteX test/drive the car around Sonoma and I just assume I should leave it how they adjust it.
Agreed with Fabman with the very important aspect that in the lower settings on the watts, the car was more responsive to throttle steering. Depending on your driving style you could get the car pointed towards the exit and unwind the wheel earlier than you thought, provided you got on the throttle early enough and aggressive enough. Somewhat counter-intuitive but it can work very well depending on driving style. Lower settings could actually be very useful for shorter tracks with tighter turns.
So if I want less oversteer moving up one hole could improve that.