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Project "Voodoo Child" 2017 GT350

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j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
Well finally got around to putting the new parts on the 350 this past weekend.

Pressing out the stock studs
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ARP Studs, and Caliperfexion installed
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MM Camber plates installed
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After 3 consecutive SCCA championships, I decided to retire the Focus ST and switch over to the 350. Went to the Test n Tune yesterday on RE71's and was setting FTD! Car feels absolutely awesome, still need to get the alignment done, but overall VERY pleased.
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j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
Had 2 good days out instructing at NCM this weekend and had a special treat at the end of the day yesterday. Mr. Andy Pilgrim jumped in my 350 and turned a few laps on the RE71's I just put on. Andy had driven my 13 Mustang as well and its always great to hear his thoughts, tips and advice for the track and the car.....and also a target lap time to shoot for.
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He was also out turning some laps in his Type-R
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Very cool, good luck in your GT350. Are those a set of CF wheels? Any comments on the RE 71R's?
 

j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
Great weather and 2 days at NCM last weekend, lots of 350s out playing, including my student and his son. Also got to hang out with @Serpent Stang and his bad ass Stangs!
First time out on the RE71's too! Tires felt good, after playing with the pressures a little bit, rear end feels a little softer/"squishy" with these tires on compared to the MPSS's though. Still need to do an alignment on the car and then want to get back to Barber, and got VIR in June.

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Also had to do a pad change as definitely got the most out of the stock pads. Caliperfexion setup worked AWESOME!
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j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
Now the fun part.....NOT! Replacing the rear studs...knew this was going to be a pain and was not disappointed...it was. Here is how I did it

**FIRST make sure you loosen the 32mm(98 ftlbs) hub nuts before you start any of this. Either remove the wheels, engage the e-brake and loosen, or remove the center caps from the wheels and loosen the nut while its on the ground. You only need to loosen it, dont try and take if all the way off at this point

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1) Loosened the exhaust to gain access to parking brake adjuster(Thanks you @Black Boss for suggestion)
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2) Measured the free length threads of the adjuster, also marked the other side of threads with yellow tire marker(Mine happened to measure right at 1")
3) Loosened the ebrake cable adjuster with 10mm ratchet wrench, also used a smaller wrench to hold cable from turning

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4) Removed all the brakes for the e-brake cable(2 x 10mm)
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5) Pushed spring down on e-brake cable and slid long handled needle nose pliers down in the end or spring, then pulled up on cable do disengage cable from top of bracket
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6) Removed this DEVIL cable from the e-brake lever.....SUCKS
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7) Removed this overkill of an e-brake cable bracket (2 x 18mm)
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8) Remove brake pads from caliper

9) Remove rotor, and then finish removing 32MM hub nut, and then remove the rear spindle assembly
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j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
continued....

10) Remove the hub from the spindle (4 x 18mm)
IMG_6377-X2.jpg

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11) I knocked out the factory studs with a hammer and an open lug nut
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12) Installed the new ARP with the Lisle Wheel Stud Installer (22800....love this thing!)
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13) Cleaned everything then reinstalled hub, e-brake assembly, to hub
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14) Reinstalled everything....opposite order
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Next up are the Ford Performance Tow Hooks
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j3st3r

Brian S.
604
376
Tennessee
As noted, to toughest part is the e-Brake.

However, You don’t need to remove the knuckle assembly. It’s tight but with an 18mm 3/8” drive snap on swivel socket you can access the wheel bearing bolts inside the hub.
for me it was just easier to remove the knuckle and work with it on its own.....tried to reduce any further aggravation ;)
 
for me it was just easier to remove the knuckle and work with it on its own.....tried to reduce any further aggravation ;)

Exactly. Removing it to then take to the bench and press the old studs out is much easier in the long run. I’ve changed broken studs on vehicles in the past with the hub still on the car. Not fun.


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