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mm R and T springs vs, ford T springs vs, Stock

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Hi all

I've been lurking around here since last fall when I purchased my 2013 LS. However I haven't
posted yet. i'm getting car prepped for HPDE's this coming season. Also trying not to just throw
parts and $ at it right off the bat without track time, and a reason. Going to run 18X10 wheels
square with 295/30/18 Hoosier R7's. Looks like I'll need to run camber plates, and while i'm there
would be a good time to do springs. But, I'd rather not go all out (just yet anyway) and start replacing everything. Or do to many double purchases. Any thoughts or ideas on Running with stock
LS springs, Throwing in a set of T springs, or running the MM R&T springs (saw a nib set on facebook otherday). Also car is stock, and I'm not new to track. I've got around a dozen or so
track days/Hpde's .

Thanks in advance for reading and any suggestions you all have.
Adam.
 
If you are over 100MPH at HPDE consider safety mods before you go much further. Bar and harnesses, a good helmet and HANS.
Although camber plates will save front rubber and add grip. Drive it and then make adjustments.
Thanks on camber plate advice. Already installed Harness Bar and Harness's, Will have Hans Before First event. and helmet is snell 2015.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,529
5,245
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Cool. Too many folks throw money at parts and forget the driver. There are many opinions concerning a harness bar. I started there and later went with the Watson 4 point.
Who’s camber plates? If you want the best go with Vorshlag. MM are a bit cheaper. I have the MM on my Boss.
 
Cool. Too many folks throw money at parts and forget the driver. There are many opinions concerning a harness bar. I started there and later went with the Watson 4 point.
Who’s camber plates? If you want the best go with Vorshlag. MM are a bit cheaper. I have the MM on my Boss.
It's between Vorshlag and MM on plates. Yes I agree on the money aspect vs driver. Noticed your in Illinois. I'm in Eastern Iowa, just outside Davenport.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,529
5,245
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Me too. Apex has a great deal going no now.

I have run RA and Blackhawk. Autobahn, not yet.

We live south of Rockford. I am working in the south but will have a 350r later this summer. I’ll keep that at home so we may see each other at Blackhawk later this year.
 
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Any thoughts or ideas on Running with stock
LS springs, Throwing in a set of T springs, or running the MM R&T springs (saw a nib set on facebook otherday). Also car is stock, and I'm not new to track. I've got around a dozen or so
track days/Hpde's .

If you are sticking with the stock LS struts and shocks, I would not run the MM Road and Track springs. I think the spring rates are probably too high to work well with the OEM dampers.

I would use the Steeda Boss springs or the Ford M-5300-P springs. You will need to look at old posts for the P springs and the required 2011 - 2014 Shelby GT500 M-18183-C upper strut mounts.

I think the T springs lower the front end a little to much without geometry correction on the front lower control arm. You also loose a lot or rear end suspension travel without a lot of increase in rear spring rate to help keep you off the bump stops.

The more you lower the rear, the more you are going to need an adjustable panhard bar to re-center the rear end. I like the Maximum Motorsport panhard, but it has bearings on both ends and may transmit a little too much noise into the cabin for a street car.

Finally, the more you lower the rear end, the more you might consider rear lower control arm relocation brackets. I prefer Ford Performance M-5650-A or the Maximum Motorsport versions.
 
If you are sticking with the stock LS struts and shocks, I would not run the MM Road and Track springs. I think the spring rates are probably too high to work well with the OEM dampers.

I would use the Steeda Boss springs or the Ford M-5300-P springs. You will need to look at old posts for the P springs and the required 2011 - 2014 Shelby GT500 M-18183-C upper strut mounts.

I think the T springs lower the front end a little to much without geometry correction on the front lower control arm. You also loose a lot or rear end suspension travel without a lot of increase in rear spring rate to help keep you off the bump stops.

The more you lower the rear, the more you are going to need an adjustable panhard bar to re-center the rear end. I like the Maximum Motorsport panhard, but it has bearings on both ends and may transmit a little too much noise into the cabin for a street car.

Finally, the more you lower the rear end, the more you might consider rear lower control arm relocation brackets. I prefer Ford Performance M-5650-A or the Maximum Motorsport versions.
Thanks, I was wondering about the heavy rates on stock shocks/struts. Wasn't aware of required upper strut mounts, I'll check for old posts. As far as panhard bar, This car will probably get as many on track miles as street miles , so not to concerned with cabin noise.

Thanks for the info.
 
Hey there, I am running a 2012 Boss (non LS Car) and agree with this statement. When looking for springs, I was concerned about lowering the car too much and creating issues with geometry which would mean I then need additional parts etc... I have come through DE 1, 2, 3 now and along the way added the BOSS Springs from Steeda. They are 235 lb in the front I believe? This helped immensely with nose dive and they only lower the front by an additional .2 inches. The rear comes down by an inch or so and stiffens up as well. I did add a Whiteline Adj Panhard bar / upper arm / lower arms (Adjustable) / MM LCA Relo brackets to the rear to help with getting the power down on track / correct geometry of rear suspension. I added J&M Camber plates and I am also running 18x10 (forgestars) but running on Potenza RE-11 200tw tires. I opted for the roll cage (4 point) from watson as well after reading about rollover risk / harness bar issues. All in all I am extremely happy with how the car feels on track. I do wish the springs were stiffer as it still has some lean / dive but until I want to invest in some coilovers I think I am going to leave as is.

One additional note, make sure to pull those front fog light deletes to get some air into the engine bay / pull your hood vents as well or purchase some Trackspec vents to help pull that air out (I experienced bad cowl shake and have decided to get some track spec vents for the 2012 hood as well).

Running slicks you are going to need some dedicated track pads as well. Don't buy the "sport" ceramic "infused" pads. They will fail... quickly.

Just my .02, hope this helps!
 
24
47
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
San Diego
Hi, here's Grant 302's informative post concerning Spring/Sway Bar options from Dec 2017:

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/s197-spring-and-sway-bar-rates.13152/

May I suggest prioritizing Brakes before Springs (unless you have already sorted this out).

To TMSBoss' point (about safety priorities) unless totally unserviceable, the OEM LS springs are probably adequate. Conversely, OEM brakes are ripe for both minor as well as major upgrades.
 
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I learned the hard way about ceramic pads on track with my previous track car. ended up with a cracked rotor after one day, lol. Going to give powerstops track pads a shot with stock rotors this year. (already ducted fronts).
Now just need to wait for weather to warm here in midwest a bit.....

Thanks again for responses.
 
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181
US
How's RPM? Never been there.

I am in IL as well. Went to school in Davenport. Grew up south of Rockford. Have hit RA, Blackhawk, gingerman, ABCC, mid o, putnam etc.

I have a pretty stock boss as well. I have p springs and they are ok. Too much body roll but that can aid traction so it's a fine line. I run the drift wheels 18x10 as well. They are fine for these for fun track days . I run slicks. I can tell you with them, brakes were a problem. Specifically, the traction control would not shut totally totally off. As a result, brakes would cook. Had to get the 302S abs module to get it totally off. Now brakes are good. I really didn't like the stock shifter set up remote mount deal. Went mgw and so much better. Part of the high rpm lock out is the stock clutch but the shifter is largely to blame as well. Some things for you to experience .... :)

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 
How's RPM? Never been there.

I am in IL as well. Went to school in Davenport. Grew up south of Rockford. Have hit RA, Blackhawk, gingerman, ABCC, mid o, putnam etc.

I have a pretty stock boss as well. I have p springs and they are ok. Too much body roll but that can aid traction so it's a fine line. I run the drift wheels 18x10 as well. They are fine for these for fun track days . I run slicks. I can tell you with them, brakes were a problem. Specifically, the traction control would not shut totally totally off. As a result, brakes would cook. Had to get the 302S abs module to get it totally off. Now brakes are good. I really didn't like the stock shifter set up remote mount deal. Went mgw and so much better. Part of the high rpm lock out is the stock clutch but the shifter is largely to blame as well. Some things for you to experience .... :)

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
For me the draw to RPM is not having to commit/register beforehand for their fast friday. (can go on a whim).
As i'm sure you've seen they're underwater right now. hopefully the track is salvageable and they're able to get it going again this year.
 
348
181
US
For me the draw to RPM is not having to commit/register beforehand for their fast friday. (can go on a whim).
As i'm sure you've seen they're underwater right now. hopefully the track is salvageable and they're able to get it going again this year.
OMG! That sucks! It's like 8 hours from me so I wasnt planning to head over but good to know its not an option at all right now. That sucks! So few places to run as it is, hate to see one go down.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 

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