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Calimer

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Has anyone here had trouble with a Calimer transmission?
I received the first one and it looked terrible, greasy inside the bellhousing like it was never cleaned.
Took a chance and installed it anyway, big mistake, no second gear!
Got a second one with a damaged input shaft so two that are junk.
Anyone else had something like this?
 
215
210
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
Wow... I've always heard good things about the guy. His transmissions are on my bucket list for when mine eventually needs work or goes out. It sounds like you were sent cores by mistake?
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Call Ben and see what he says. Be sure you are talking to Ben directly.
At my business we have sent out over 20 notices stopping persons from reselling our product, misrepresenting our product and using our copyrighted materials for profit. All internet bottom dwellers taking advantage of us and our legit customers
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
I got a second Calimer tranny for a friend last year. It too arrived pretty dirty with the magnetic plug full of metal bits etc.. Did not feel very smooth when turned over by hand.... Showed Ben the pics and he was a bit grumpy that we had opened the box up to see inside... My buddy was not happy, but the tranny has been going for about a year now with out any problems..

My Calimer box died long time ago after two hard seasons, but it died before adding a oilcooler.
 
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I don’t know Ben but the parts are available and any competent trans shop can do the work. Liberty has the brass shift pads and they make a big difference. I’ve driven a car that had those and some other parts installed by a dealer and it was a huge difference. This is not rocket science.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
I don’t know Ben but the parts are available and any competent trans shop can do the work. Liberty has the brass shift pads and they make a big difference. I’ve driven a car that had those and some other parts installed by a dealer and it was a huge difference. This is not rocket science.


Too true....The parts are out there... My mechanic rebuilt my last (of many) MT82. Changed out the crappy bearings and added cooling etc. Things like the return line from the oil cooler going to the top of the box to make sure its well lubricated etc.
 
Let’s talk about it, then. What does the MT-82 need, from a component standpoint, to become a good and reliable transmission?

Brass shift pads, better bearings... what else?

Madhatter, you said the return line going to the top of the box... where does it normally run into the trans? What other “tricks” are there to making the MT-82 a better trans?
 
I believe the answer to the MT-82 fix is an upgrade to something better.......sad to say............Mine hasn't bitten me yet.........
Mine is doing great as well, but alas... it’s only got 8,200ish miles on it, and I’m the first person to drive it spiritedly.

The other owners were collectors who did nothing but wipe it with terry cloth. :rolleyes:
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Let’s talk about it, then. What does the MT-82 need, from a component standpoint, to become a good and reliable transmission?

Brass shift pads, better bearings... what else?

Clutch - specifically the pressure plate/housing
Shifter mount mods and/or trans/engine bushing - to help with mis-alignment issues.
Driver

I'm in the minority on this topic, but I believe there's nothing wrong internally with the MT-82 for N/A applications. It handles the power just fine. I have two of them. Currently my only issue with either is the clutch/pressure plate on the Boss.

Maybe I'll change my opinion on the matter when either of them fail. But for now, I think most can work on their rev matching/heel-toe down shifting. Basically - not forcing the synchros to take the abuse of bad or lazy driving. So far, the one in my GT has handled a fair amount of abuse in the form of power shifting once in a while and even sometimes at the track on 305 slicks. I do rev-match every shift and the GT has almost 28k on the clock. So it would be hard to convince me that the MT-82 is weak internally.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
I will probably stay with the MT82 since rebuilding is still cheaper then a Tremec kit... that and really dont like the tremec gearing...

Gotten pretty good a swapping trannies jajajaj

Oddly enough the weakest gear is 5th, not one that gets a hard work out at the track
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I will probably stay with the MT82 since rebuilding is still cheaper then a Tremec kit... that and really dont like the tremec gearing...

Gotten pretty good a swapping trannies jajajaj

Oddly enough the weakest gear is 5th, not one that gets a hard work out at the track
Nothing wrong with the gearing, just gotta change the rear ratio to make it work.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
I went to 3.31 gearing at the rear and with the Mt82 find it fine for our faster tracks. But when I make my tables up with a 3.75 and the Magnum XL seems a little long... Need to see how the new engine works at the track!

Truth be told can't face changing the driveshaft, MGW shifter and clutch.....
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
What gearing do you prefer?
For whatever track, I generally prefer to top out in 4th. Selection, IMO should always be track and setup specific. Some tracks I need 5th and will use 2 through 5 like at Laguna Seca. Both cars have 3.73s, but I'd probably be happier with 3.55 in the GT and 645 tall slicks.
 

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