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What did you do to your Boss 302 or S197 today?

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TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
HPDE
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3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
Interesting. Saw this after taking the front passenger side wheel off after PPIR. Something grinding the lip of the wheel and it was red which leaves me to suspect it was grinding against the BMR A-Arms or the BMR K-Member. I had already put the new wheels on before noticing this. There was a pretty big dip on the lower part of the track near the exit of the oval and although I did manage to miss most of it each lap, I did feel some slight grinding but assumed it was the Kooks side pipes (again). I'll need to get the new wheels off and figure out where the red paint and scrapping came from.

Wheel Damage - Passenger Front (2).png
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Interesting. Saw this after taking the front passenger side wheel off after PPIR. Something grinding the lip of the wheel and it was red which leaves me to suspect it was grinding against the BMR A-Arms or the BMR K-Member. I had already put the new wheels on before noticing this. There was a pretty big dip on the lower part of the track near the exit of the oval and although I did manage to miss most of it each lap, I did feel some slight grinding but assumed it was the Kooks side pipes (again). I'll need to get the new wheels off and figure out where the red paint and scrapping came from.

View attachment 8793

With the wheel off, isn't something visible on the car?
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
Didn't notice it until after the new wheels went on. The old Apex wheels sat for a few days before I started cleaning them and then I noticed this. I'll take a peek when I get home.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
It's weird how the wear spots are intermittent and scalloped like that. Like the wheel might have been loose and wobbling. Haven't seen anything like that before.
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
Wheels were snug all day as I check the lugs after every session. The intermittent pattern could be from bounce through the dip? I see where the contact was latter. All the other wheels were fine.
 
348
181
US
Rubber even poly bushings can deflect a bit under hard load so your 3mm clearance of the strut can all of a sudden be -1 or -2mm clearance which = your rub. I was at a Trac and the curbing was huge on the outside and you damn near use it to throw the car into the turn . the Pirelli yellow print on the tire was gone in a session. It definitely deflected my suspension no doubt. But I had alot more clearance with my 10" wheels.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 

TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
2,740
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
Pretty sure the evidence points to the BMR A-Arm. Never had this issue before but PPIR was bumpy and I did spin so perhaps the wheel was turned hard right and scrapped the side of the A-Arm. Red paint on the rim and red paint missing on the A-Arm. The damage to the A-Arm is pretty minimal.

Damage A.png
 
675
253
Dyno'd my LS for the 1st time yesterday at a Mustang specialty shop using a Mustang dyno. 2013 LS with very light power upgrades - Steeda CAI, Borla S-Type axlebacks, AED e-tune from at least 5 years ago, sidepipes open. 89 degrees inside the room and the dyno operator predicted 390whp but 1st run was 414, then 423, then 418. Very, very, very pleased! Peak power was at almost 7800rpm.

BTW on their dyno the 2018+ GTs are putting down nearly that much power stock (410ish) and have more torque lower down. Very impressive.

Oh, and I finally, FINALLY fixed the annoying squeaking from the rear of my car. I kept thinking it was my control arms or Watts link or swaybar bushings or or or but it turns out it was the threaded adjusters on my KW V3 springs. They have play in the threads and the springs have a slightly wider diameter than the perch so they move a little, too. Was hard to track down because the noise was inconsistent and I have been underneath the car a number of times trying to figure it out. I ordered 2 new OE rubber spring isolators and put them in between the spring and the adjuster and I also added some plumber's tape to the threads. Drove the car for 1.5 hours over all sorts of roads and speeds and the squeaks are GONE. Whew.

7/21/19 EDIT: the squeak is back, not as bad but still annoying. I'll need to get back underneath it soon. Dagnabbit!
 
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Rebuilding my 8.8. New Torsen T-2R FR500S, Boss302R/S Diff. new bearings and gears. I ended up having to reuse the original gears though, I messed up the pinion of the new one getting it back out after the setup part of the rebuild. Curse you pinion depth! Got a nice pattern on the old gears. Now its all going back together.
 

Apex3V

Heel-n-Toe Enthusiast
Rebuilding my 8.8. New Torsen T-2R FR500S, Boss302R/S Diff. new bearings and gears. I ended up having to reuse the original gears though, I messed up the pinion of the new one getting it back out after the setup part of the rebuild. Curse you pinion depth! Got a nice pattern on the old gears. Now its all going back together.
How bad was it for you to do, getting ready to do the same thing and from the videos I've watched it seems fairly simple to do.
 

cobrarob

11 Shelby GT500
555
130
new york
Rebuilding my 8.8. New Torsen T-2R FR500S, Boss302R/S Diff. new bearings and gears. I ended up having to reuse the original gears though, I messed up the pinion of the new one getting it back out after the setup part of the rebuild. Curse you pinion depth! Got a nice pattern on the old gears. Now its all going back together.
Are you running a diff cooler also?
 

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