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What did you do to your Boss 302 or S197 today?

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Had a busy weekend working on the Boss:
Installed new Ford Performance Hubs with ARP studs
Replaced driver's side spindle and control arm (passenger side previously replaced, I had been procrastinating doing the driver's side)
Swapped back to street rotors and pads since it may be a while before seeing the track again
Got my Apex 18x11 EC7s and 295/35R18 Yokohama Advan A052s installed!! (stuck with 295 for classing, otherwise would have gone at least 305)
Test-fit the S550 PP 6 piston Brembos
Swapped my stock ABs for some used Flowmaster American Thunder ABs, still not sure if I like them better. They are barely louder than stock, and although they are lighter and seem to flow more freely out the rear, I think there is less sound coming out the side pipes now. TBD on keeping them.
Hopefully the tracks open up sooner than everything else, desert racetracks are a great place to social distance!
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I am going to install these replacement hubs with arp studs up front. On the rear I'd rather not have to take out the axle tubes. Can the studs be easily tapped out and pressed in while the hub is still attached to the car?
 
167
218
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Irvine, CA
I am going to install these replacement hubs with arp studs up front. On the rear I'd rather not have to take out the axle tubes. Can the studs be easily tapped out and pressed in while the hub is still attached to the car?
Nice, the fronts are pretty easy and give lots of confidence. I actually haven't looked into the rear yet although I need to, I have the studs for the rear but I'm in the same boat. Would love to be able to install them without removing the axle tubes but I'm not sure how feasible that will be with the car on jack stands.
Hopefully some of the more experienced folks can comment!
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Nice, the fronts are pretty easy and give lots of confidence. I actually haven't looked into the rear yet although I need to, I have the studs for the rear but I'm in the same boat. Would love to be able to install them without removing the axle tubes but I'm not sure how feasible that will be with the car on jack stands.
Hopefully some of the more experienced folks can comment!
They come out with a hammer and you can pull the new ones in with a backwards lug nut and several washers. Just make sure the splines are lined up correctly and use anti seize or some other lubricant on the threads and splines while you do.
There are some who may poo poo this method but I've been doing it since the 70's without 1 failure so there's my opinion on that.
 
1,161
2,116
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SoCal
They come out with a hammer and you can pull the new ones in with a backwards lug nut and several washers. Just make sure the splines are lined up correctly and use anti seize or some other lubricant on the threads and splines while you do.
There are some who may poo poo this method but I've been doing it since the 70's without 1 failure so there's my opinion on that.

There’s a hole in the OE caliper mount that allows the stud to pass through as you tap it out - see pic below. Just make sure it’s lined up, remove the old, install the new and then rotate the axle for the next lug to line up.

+1 on the Lisle 22800 tool mentioned above - it works like a bearing and allows the lug nut to spin. On sale @ NAPA for $29.99 right now too.

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Almost have the car back together. Just buttoning up a few things. I have to wait for a serial to usb cable so I can program the Innovative gauges I got, and then should be good to fire it up. Went ahead, and refilled the coolant, then primed, and filled the oil system. On the home stretch. Might update the build thread with everything, seems kinda dead in here lately.


Edit: I can't seem to embed pics. Keep getting a error message all of a sudden. Anyone else having the same issue? I tried Chrome, and Firefox. get the same message. @Ludachris
 
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Tried my hand at DIY alignment today. Went well for the most part, seems like I have slightly more camber on the driverside than the passenger by about -0.25. Not bad for my first attempt. In positive news, the car enjoys the additional camber and feels much more solid on a quick test drive. I will have to attempt to fix the uneven camber tomorrow.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Worked on Frankenstang for the first time....in about a year.
Both sections where the K member bolts up had been badly caved in at some point, so I made a little tool and pulled the damage out with a pry bar.
I'll make some reinforcement plates later but this was an exercise in; "can this possibly work?"
and the answer is: Yes.

You would be surprised how flimsy this important connection is.

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Worked on Frankenstang for the first time....in about a year.
Both sections where the K member bolts up had been badly caved in at some point, so I made a little tool and pulled the damage out with a pry bar.
I'll make some reinforcement plates later but this was an exercise in; "can this possibly work?"
and the answer is: Yes.

You would be surprised how flimsy this important connection is.

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Interesting, I have a slight dent on one side from the previous owner jacking the car up improperly. Curious if anyone had any thoughts if it is better to pull the minor dent out or is it safer to leave as is?
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
I'll make some reinforcement plates later
While they add some weight, the Steeda Jacking Rails offer additional reinforcement in that area by having their front tab between the K-member and body.

Not to mention avoiding the problem in the first place by providing a place to jack the car other than the K-member.

Nice McGyver fix!
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
While they add some weight, the Steeda Jacking Rails offer additional reinforcement in that area by having their front tab between the K-member and body.

Not to mention avoiding the problem in the first place by providing a place to jack the car other than the K-member.

Nice McGyver fix!
I did not know those existed in that configuration.
I had previously made my own jacking rails (as seen in the above pictures) and planned on making some support plates that weld to them very much like what Steeda did.
 
I’ve had time in my hands due to Corona... pulled the fenders / bumper / and cut out the core support. New support going in this week along with a new Mishimoto radiator. The frame is straight, no significant damage (easy fix)! Can’t wait to see her put back together after the VIR crash.

Also pulled my Jri coilovers as those will be going on my blue (track car). Replaced with bilsteins and p springs on white car since this will be my weekend / hpde toy until I sell it!

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I’ve had time in my hands due to Corona... pulled the fenders / bumper / and cut out the core support. New support going in this week along with a new Mishimoto radiator. The frame is straight, no significant damage (easy fix)! Can’t wait to see her put back together after the VIR crash.

Also pulled my Jri coilovers as those will be going on my blue (track car). Replaced with bilsteins and p springs on white car since this will be my weekend / hpde toy until I sell it!

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View attachment 14774

Beautiful, What size wheels and tires are you running with those bilsteins?
 

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