Patrick, Surprised you have Ct roots!!!...My 442 days lasted to the mid 70's....my need for speed fell asleep until I got my Boss on Oct 5 2011...............
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Keep those sunglasses on and the abuse will be minimal.............LOL........................my eyes are already sensitive. please no eyeball abuse
theres a reason i still wear sunglasses in overcast weather... good thing my visor on my helmet is tintedKeep those sunglasses on and the abuse will be minimal.............LOL........................
Frank, Just make sure you don't get those cheap sunglasses................theres a reason i still wear sunglasses in overcast weather.
I might take you up on that. Still trying to play with the 10-speed vs manual in my head. I think it'd be decently simple, just about as easy as the manual, as long as I switch in all the logic boxes completely over. I'm alright with the MT82-D4, but can't help wonder if the gearing of the auto will make it even faster, instead of the huge unfriendly gaps that make smaller turny courses difficult. That's pretty much been Ale's guinea pig, but I'm stuck between that and putting some miles in a DCT setup that a bunch of us have been talking about. I dunno, got 2 months to figure it out, big end goal is getting one last shot at ACS and breaking into the 1:43's.Patrick holler if you have any trouble getting all the canbus working when you have it swapped to manual, I had to do some digging to figure mine out but eventually got it.
I might take you up on that. Still trying to play with the 10-speed vs manual in my head. I think it'd be decently simple, just about as easy as the manual, as long as I switch in all the logic boxes completely over. I'm alright with the MT82-D4, but can't help wonder if the gearing of the auto will make it even faster, instead of the huge unfriendly gaps that make smaller turny courses difficult. That's pretty much been Ale's guinea pig, but I'm stuck between that and putting some miles in a DCT setup that a bunch of us have been talking about. I dunno, got 2 months to figure it out, big end goal is getting one last shot at ACS and breaking into the 1:43's.
Careful with this. While the nGauge does save a "stock" file, it saves whatever tune was on the car when the nGauge was paired with it. It could be a shotty Whipple tune. I'd swap in the pcm from the stripper.Ah, well that's great news, and thanks for having better eyes than I. If that nGauge is there, then I should be able to at least flash it back to stock for the next device or tuner incoming, and that reminds me that I might as well try to return the Stripper back to stock too. Not sure what we'll be doing with all these transmissions, or if I'm going to give the auto a go, trying to gauge what it'll entail, but thankfully we've got just about everything we're going to need with two 2018 GT's and trying to Frankenstein them together. I was pretty happy with the 470rwhp pep from the Stripper, and it's about as far as you can get a Gen3 Coyote without doing cams and intake. Stock Gen3 is around 410-420rwhp and that math at the current NASA rules/specs works out perfectly if I run it stock and get it down to a s197ish 3400 minimum race weight, and losing ACS has me thinking I've got to go lighter for the smaller turny courses.
Depending on rules, you could send that out for chemical milling (acid-dip) before welding in. It's weight at the highest point on the car, so lightening it could make a change to the CG.fix the roof
That is most certainly true, and really good points, especially as I've read some horror stories on the interwebs. I'll play with the nGauge in a little bit and see if I can figure out a way to unmarry it for the consumption of others since I hear these are decently hard to come by. Good news is that I've got spares and whatnot, so my best course of action is to transplant the heart of the Stripper in Macho Man so her heart will go on, and play with my remaining MT82-D4 with the broken 3-4 shift fork, and take a look at the condition of the junker block sometime this week.Careful with this. While the nGauge does save a "stock" file, it saves whatever tune was on the car when the nGauge was paired with it. It could be a shotty Whipple tune. I'd swap in the pcm from the stripper.
Depending on rules, you could send that out for chemical milling (acid-dip) before welding in. It's weight at the highest point on the car, so lightening it could make a change to the CG.
Could the trunk holes be for cables from a trunk-mounted battery?
I still say keep the wrap. The color is Macho Man-approved.
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Looks like he also suggests using GY Supercar 3R tires.
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Well that should work for my time line then... what thickness did you go with? I've "heard" that the 3/16 is too thin and flexes, something the thicker ones don't.For what it's worth I just bought a windshield from optic armor and got it in less than 3 weeks. Maybe your experience won't be the same but just saying.
I went with 1/4. My rough calc said it would be about 3 lb heavier than 3/16 but I don't want a floppy windshield. My old car had a 3/16 with no supports and it was very bouncy over 120 LOL. May have been fine if I added braces, but who knows.Well that should work for my time line then... what thickness did you go with? I've "heard" that the 3/16 is too thin and flexes, something the thicker ones don't.
1/4" front and 3/16" back.Well that should work for my time line then... what thickness did you go with? I've "heard" that the 3/16 is too thin and flexes, something the thicker ones don't.
I went with 1/4. My rough calc said it would be about 3 lb heavier than 3/16 but I don't want a floppy windshield. My old car had a 3/16 with no supports and it was very bouncy over 120 LOL. May have been fine if I added braces, but who knows.
1/4" front and 3/16" back.
Any thinner and you have to make braces, but then you negate any weight savings and if I remember correctly the difference was only about 1 pound anyway so why bother?
Personally I'd go with whichever one is stiffer, not necessarily lighter.Thank you both.
Watching Jake make ALE HIS f***ing biznitch has me trying to go as light as possible where it makes sense. Money is absolutely an object for my race team, and with Auto Club Speedway going away, our SoCal region would then consist of two smaller/curvier courses in Buttonwillow and Chuckwalla, and then the power track of Willow Springs. I was declaring 3605 for my 470rwhp, which is about as far as one can reliably push the Gen 3 without doing cams and Cobra Jet. With the current mod and tire weights, and the reworking of the average/max hp calculation, 3605 worked out to a max hp of 474, which I thought was a decent tradeoff, because the current bracketing give an extra 0.1 mod for >3600. I'm thinking I can go another 100 or 200 lighter, and if I have to pull power to do so, I'm alright with it, although the stock Gen 3 dynos around 415rwhp. I was usually going out with full tanks just for the ballast, and ACS on stock fuel system you need that tank nearly full when you're going fast and hard enough, banking and g's hitting fuel starve at like 3/4 a tank.
Speaking of tank, what do people feel about the BMR tubular K-Member? It's half the price of the Steeda one that's been used for all their HPDE podiums.
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Differences I can see are that the Steeda is a mostly one piece kit with some cross k-member brace, whereas the BMR bolts those rear legs to it, not saying it couldn't be tacked up. Both seem to have the EPAS, and no need to change out to a manual rack. An easy 30# off the nose seems like a no brainer.
I spoke with Cortex this time last year but was told they didn't have a solution for running their SLA with the factory S550 K-member, nor did they have anything planned at the time. I'd certainly be interested in something like that though.I would avoid either of those K-Member options (and most of them over the years we have not seen hold up well to the rigors of road racing, anyways). CorteX has an offering that is well-tested. Or options to put an SLA on the front of the car like mine, while using the factory K.