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One last thing I promise. 210F max oil temp is too cool, especially if running E85 which will cause a cooler running engine for a variety of reasons. 210 is below boiling and water does get into oil through many ways mostly being carried by ethanol which has a strong affinity to it, and just from the humidity in the air. It is desired to be boiled off in the oil above 212 of course. Last post on it and if you and Shaun are comfortable with it that's good. Cup engines run oil temps at 265F by the way.
Can't really compare anything we do to what a cup car is doing.. They don't fart without a reason for it. LOL

They run their water temps 280F+ without worry, not sure most people's cars are designed to handle that
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Can't really compare anything we do to what a cup car is doing.. They don't fart without a reason for it. LOL

They run their water temps 280F+ without worry, not sure most people's cars are designed to handle that
Currently running in the 190/210 area on water myself. Very happy I'm not fighting temp or oiling issues.
I'm making good power, making a lot of rpm with 100% reliability with a damn near stock motor. Stuff just works.
I could probably block some of the radiator to warm things up....probably should.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Can't really compare anything we do to what a cup car is doing.. They don't fart without a reason for it. LOL

They run their water temps 280F+ without worry, not sure most people's cars are designed to handle that
They run warm for aero, weight and friction reduction. Warm oil is less drag on the rotating components. Smaller radiators with higher operating pressures are less weight, thats why an S550 with 21 lb cooling system is better than 16lb in a S197, you want the cylinder jackets to be warm. Sal is happy so I'm ok too, but I would love to see his oil temp at the inlet side of his filter block.
 
They run warm for aero, weight and friction reduction. Warm oil is less drag on the rotating components. Smaller radiators with higher operating pressures are less weight, thats why an S550 with 21 lb cooling system is better than 16lb in a S197, you want the cylinder jackets to be warm. Sal is happy so I'm ok too, but I would love to see his oil temp at the inlet side of his filter block.
Oh for sure, I know the advantages. I'm running a 35 psi pressure relief system on my car. It's all un tested still, but it should work well.

Maybe we can convince him to add another gauge there.. For research purposes
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Oh for sure, I know the advantages. I'm running a 35 psi pressure relief system on my car. It's all un tested still, but it should work well.

Maybe we can convince him to add another gauge there.. For research purposes
I do have an extra trans temp gauge in the dash that I'm not using....it could happen. lol.
Seriously, I am probably over cooling the oil....5/50 is good thin oil but that's probably cooler than it should be.
I can tell you this, and you've seen me do it, I start the motor in the pit and warm it up. Then I arrive at grid and let it idle with the water pump off (electric pump with no thermostat) and let it idle until I see some water temp then flick the pump on....then it sits idling for probably 15-20 min in grid and when I head out to the track the oil temp is just starting to show movement....there is 16 quarts of oil in the system and it takes quite a while to warm it all up. (No thermostat in the oil system either, I don't like extra restriction in the lines) So that and my big cooler with super duper ducting is probably overkill. I think I am going to add grill blockers to my list of upgrades for next year. That and ABS and a transmission that stays in gear...the rest will have to come from setup refinement (gonna experiment with RC height and rear sway bar some more) shock adjustments and hopefully driver improvements. I can't really get the car much lighter and I can't really make any more power easily/cheaply enough so that's just going to have to be enough. And maybe a little luck....that won't hurt either.

EDIT: I have a 35 psi system too.
 

Duane Black

Curbs go brrrppp
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I am going full "I've never done this before and I am uploading every video" guy... (and chill out... this is my 48th event)

Why did I do this? I enjoy the challenge. 4 sessions of the same-ish conditions can be fun, but the real challenge is to drive well session to session and essentially new or changing conditions. I had one spin today, my first on track in a while at least. Each session offered a unique challenge. Going out on a fully dry track with commitment with only 1 damp session behind you is fun, You have to trust the car will have grip it didnt earlier... the session getting wet was the most challenging. I had no idea how bad it would get, and you had to back off each lap progressively... recognizinb where you're almost in trouble and adjust accordingly next lap. I had to look ahead at the conditions as they were different on each end, and I had to drive the next corner based on how the last one felt... all in all, Monday, May 1 proved one of the more challenging days of my track career thus far!


At least I guess it was hail. when the wind blew it through my side glass, it hurt like hell on my arms. I was on Hankook RS4

With a few slides and a big spin, heres the wet session


The dry session, with a couple of daring (for an HPDE guy) passes to get a best lap, and where at the end, I learned a Mustang isnt that much slower than a BRZ




And the first session of the day... damp but drying, and running the Hankooks

 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
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Rain-X, it's chemical magic for windshields. The glass needs to be really clean first - I usually do one or two cleanings with with Windex, followed by a wipe down using a clean paper towel with a little brake cleaner on it, turning over & refolding to keep a clean working surface. After that, follow the directions on the bottle, including (IIRC) buffing in well with clean paper towel.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
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Blair, Nebraska
Dave_W hit an extremely important point, the glass must be super, super clean prior to application. As he noted, it is magic on one's windshield -- great for track or street!
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Rain-x is awesome stuff....but the last few years I have been using Lucas speed wax and a microfiber (since I am cleaning up the car anyway) and that works just as well on both glass and Lexan windows.

wax.PNG
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
The cold mornings scare a lot of ppl... and I was a little late to grid....

I love it....especially the video game sounds.
Richard and I watched this twice. Great stuff!
 

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