I'm prepping my Christmas mod list and thinking about replacing the stock driveshaft. I do 2-3 HPDE event per year and DD about 13K per year. Occasional Strip work on street tires for fun (no hard launches).

I'm leaning towards CF (less noise transfer and no need for DS loop), but I have some durability concerns (not sure if I'm overthinking that or not). Most people seem to go with Al, but not sure if that is more a price-to-value thing or any design advantage. Any suggestions based on my application?

PST, Shaftmaster (Al), DSS and Dynotech are major brands most people go with. Some are direct bolt on and others have a flange. Also notice some have slip-yolks design, other are spline(?). Any thoughts or suggestions on brand\design?

THX

The 13/14 GT500 came stock with a CF DS so the material has been durability tested on a Mustang by Ford. Budget is always a concern but if it fits your budget give the CF a try.

I would wait till ford performance puts their driveshaft out. Retain your warranty and you know it has been properly tested for durability. I had a nightmare with aftermarket driveshafts in the boss. The GT350 will be easier because the pinion angle is static but I'm still waiting for ford to release one.

Being involved in racing these things, there's two places where I seriously question the use of CF, one is wheels, the other in the driveshaft. CF is awesome and strong and light and all that but it's very susceptible to any kind of surface damage that can let impurities into the CF layers itself. The damage can come from rock chips, even hitting it on a bracket during installation...road debris.. anything. If you ever do knick a CF part (and it's not structural) you need to take some clear paint, epoxy...etc and reseal the area that is damaged immediately, before any contaminants get in there. As far as the drive shaft, I would suspect that Ford would probably build the stoutest one available and the one that could take the most abuse, so as stated, I would wait for that one, which I'm sure will be big $$$.
If you are willing to put up with the maintenance and inspection process to run the CF then go for it, but there's nothing wrong with aluminum and it will take more outside abuse.

He's looking to install this on his 2011 GT500. The one from the 13/14 should bolt right on.

VoodooBOSS said:

He's looking to install this on his 2011 GT500. The one from the 13/14 should bolt right on.

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The '13/'14 needs an adapter (Tob did a big write up on SVTP a while back) to fit on my '11. Getting a little pricy with FRPP CF DS and the adapter.

Very happy with the Dynotech 3.5" AL shaft on my 2012 B302.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-4602-MSVT

It's a new part so I have not been able to confirm what this will sell below retail for. You can call Tasca or Ford Racing Parts By Don Wood; they sell at well below retail on all Ford Performance parts.
This bolts right in.

ArizonaBOSS said:

Very happy with the Dynotech 3.5" AL shaft on my 2012 B302.

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Ditto on my 2013 Boss!

All, thanks for the advice...Although I like the noise reduction properties of CF, starting to think Al is a better choice for durability, especially since we have so many small rocks\stones on AZ roads. Also, not looking at putting in the extra time and efforts for inspection, etc.

Wondering who FRPP sources the Al driveshaft from...not aware of anyone running it yet.

Ford sources from Spicer. It's a nice piece, I am pleased with mine in a 5.0 application.
Short write up in the "What did you do......" thread a couple weeks ago that generated feedback you may be interested in.

So did you almost kill yourself when the old one broke free and you found out it weighed 500 pounds?....lol
Removing mine was like humping a badger

Not sure of any benefit of the 4.0 v. 3.5 size - I do know the 3.5 is less rotational mass.

I went for the CF. I've had an aluminum drive shaft sheer dead center. I also prefer the reduction in NVH when the application is other than dedicated track cars. I, at one time, preferred aluminum intakes to plastic when I first saw them on a 94 4.6!!

blacksheep-1 said:

So did you almost kill yourself when the old one broke free and you found out it weighed 500 pounds?....lol
Removing mine was like humping a badger

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I mess around with 1710 and 1850 size stuff all the time so this one was just a baby badger.
The Boss &Track Pack cars should have shipped with a one piece.
And shearing a drive line is interesting, love to know the details, HP conditions and have a look at the damaged tube.

For the disbeliever out there...
The engine was a fully worked 4.6. Short block built by Shrader performance. I'm sure you have no idea who this is. He has a yellow new edge 4.6 mustang named Brightmare than turns nines with stock displacement. The driveshaft was a MMX extra heavy duty 4" police unit with no modifications. When it happened I was going roughly 100 and a foot to the floor 2/3 shift. it came apart dead center. The break looked like an internal explosion had taken place. It snapped the tail shaft right off the transmission.
Applying forensics, It twisted it during a previous hole shot and finally it gave way under high load high rom conditions. Aluminum driveshafts CAN be twisted along the shaft length, go undetected, and then fail at a later point in time. CF won't do this. I don't have pictures as I didn't realize at the time that I was going to be cross examined!!!

CrossBoss said:

For the disbeliever out there...
The engine was a fully worked 4.6. Short block built by Shrader performance. I'm sure you have no idea who this is. He has a yellow new edge 4.6 mustang named Brightmare than turns nines with stock displacement. The driveshaft was a MMX extra heavy duty 4" police unit with no modifications. When it happened I was going roughly 100 and a foot to the floor 2/3 shift. it came apart dead center. The break looked like an internal explosion had taken place. It snapped the tail shaft right off the transmission.
Applying forensics, It twisted it during a previous hole shot and finally it gave way under high load high rom conditions. Aluminum driveshafts CAN be twisted along the shaft length, go undetected, and then fail at a later point in time. CF won't do this. I don't have pictures as I didn't realize at the time that I was going to be cross examined!!!

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Sorry I offended you, I was not doubting you and will happily remove the post that offends you. I work for an OEM HD all wheel drive military and commercial vehicle MFG that you probably never heard of and we break stuff all the time testing and I haven't seen a driveline do that, and was curious. So sorry.

I installed aluminum after breaking the two piece. I'm happy with the Aluminum. Aluminum has been used for decades. It is proven. In a 9 second car anything can break. Put the money you save on the DS into sticky tires. Years ago I had a 10 second mustang that would twist the DS yoke. I had to replace a few of them. The alloy shaft always held up.