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Suspension/rear end problems

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Hello everyone,

I took my boss to get an alignment along with tire balancing, the shop sent me some pictures stating the rear end is not squared.
Has any one experienced this?

Currently have steeda's lca+ brackets along with UCA with their bracket. Shop is stating the arms arent adjustable, which I completely thought they were.

What are your guy's thoughts?

IMG_4052_zpskw8etc2d.jpg

IMG9540531_zpsmprb4ehg.jpg
 

Fabman

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Chriss_302 said:
Hello everyone,

I took my boss to get an alignment along with tire balancing, the shop sent me some pictures stating the rear end is not squared.
Has any one experienced this?

Currently have steeda's lca+ brackets along with UCA with their bracket. Shop is stating the arms arent adjustable, which I completely thought they were.

What are your guy's thoughts?

IMG_4052_zpskw8etc2d.jpg

IMG9540531_zpsmprb4ehg.jpg
Are the lca brackets welded in? If not the will move and cause this.


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Fabman said:
Are the lca brackets welded in? If not the will move and cause this.


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Yes, they're welded in, guy who did the job didn't do all that great.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Chriss_302 said:
Yes, they're welded in, guy who did the job didn't do all that great.
It's possible they weren't welded in straight. You are going to need to fix that.


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If the LCA's are not even that's a problem. Correcting them would be my first move too. You can also try some adjustable LCA's and see if you can get it square that way.
 
VoodooBOSS said:
If the LCA's are not even that's a problem. Correcting them would be my first move too. You can also try some adjustable LCA's and see if you can get it square that way.

What about swapping back to OEM?
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Chriss_302 said:
What about swapping back to OEM?
Its likely that the brackets are welded on crooked so the stock arms wont help unless he mounts them up to the stock holes in the differential.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
:eek: Dang. Does your car dog-track on the freeway? The problem has to be in the brackets. Especially with fixed length arms.

Chriss_302 said:
What about swapping back to OEM?

OEM arms aren't going to help. Taking out the brackets might.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Chriss_302 said:
e36e5ed378dac5965893d58c543c4f5c.jpg
Re: Suspension/rear end problems

5792ccfd0fd404b738c0cad48523b103.jpg
Re: Suspension/rear end problems


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And there it is....time for some cutting.
 
In looking at the pictures they need to measure again for you....it's off but not as much as they think. The first picture shows the ruler on the surface of the tire....measurement depending on the angle of the picture looks to be about 1 11/16".... the second picture the end of the ruler is in the tread itself....which looks to be about 1/4" deep....so if you take the 1/4" off of the second measurement it would be about 2 1/2"....so difference between the 2 1/2" and 1 11/16" is less than 7/8"....again, some of this depends on the angles the pictures were taken at. Not saying it shouldnt be fixed, the pictures just make it look worse than it might really be. Just my thoughts and opinions.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
redkey1651 said:
In looking at the pictures they need to measure again for you....it's off but not as much as they think. The first picture shows the ruler on the surface of the tire....measurement depending on the angle of the picture looks to be about 1 11/16".... the second picture the end of the ruler is in the tread itself....which looks to be about 1/4" deep....so if you take the 1/4" off of the second measurement it would be about 2 1/2"....so difference between the 2 1/2" and 1 11/16" is less than 7/8"....again, some of this depends on the angles the pictures were taken at. Not saying it shouldnt be fixed, the pictures just make it look worse than it might really be. Just my thoughts and opinions.

Calibrated eyeball says ~1" to 1 1/16" given all the parallax and tread depth errors. ;)

Either way, still enough for the WTF moment.
 
redkey1651 said:
In looking at the pictures they need to measure again for you....it's off but not as much as they think. The first picture shows the ruler on the surface of the tire....measurement depending on the angle of the picture looks to be about 1 11/16".... the second picture the end of the ruler is in the tread itself....which looks to be about 1/4" deep....so if you take the 1/4" off of the second measurement it would be about 2 1/2"....so difference between the 2 1/2" and 1 11/16" is less than 7/8"....again, some of this depends on the angles the pictures were taken at. Not saying it shouldnt be fixed, the pictures just make it look worse than it might really be. Just my thoughts and opinions.
My exact thoughts. Going to personally measure tomorrow and upload some pictures.




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Since the welds are off, will that be the cause for the rear end not being squared?


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Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,203
Exp. Type
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Chriss_302 said:
Since the welds are off, will that be the cause for the rear end not being squared?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yup. It may have been crooked before the welder got it and he welded it where bit was.
This is the reason I didn't use the steeda brackets on mine. There is no real firm location bracket like on other brands. They can slide around on the housing if you drive it before welding.


See how the BMR bracket in the bottom pic has a tab that catches a bolt hole to keep the proper location?
Notice on the Steeda mount in the top pic that there is no such bracket?


16241?$subcat250x187$.jpg




49602?$subcat250x187$.jpg
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Fabman said:
This is the reason I didn't use the steeda brackets on mine. There is no real firm location bracket like on other brands. They can slide around on the housing if you drive it before welding.

Exactly. Other brand brackets with the back strap could also be welded, if desired.
 

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