Rims and tires are sold locally, pads are sold and will be shipped out Monday. sorry for the delayed responses guys, I have been working graveyards. I will be putting a new in the box shoreline front sway bar up for sale as soon as I pick it up from friends shop.

I also have the car cover if anyone wants it. I i have no idea what to ask on it though.

They are Forgestar F14s in Bronze Burst 18x10 +42 offset. Two of the rims are brand new from a hydroplane incident, I just opened one of the boxes for a picture. There is no curb rash, mounting scratches or even lug nut scratches. I am selling them because the car is being traded in next friday...

The only two I have any experience at are Miller (track attack + FR500) and Bondurant when I was 16 (11 years ago). I liked Bondurant better but I also didn't know anything then and was not under the constraints of a ford sponsored program. IMHO, buy a shifter kart for the money and go race...

I noticed it when I first got the car and I adapted however it is nowhere near as bad as my E46 m3 was, in first gear you just have to give it a little more gas while letting the clutch out.

Most people aren't having any braking problems with race pads/fluid and ducts under heavy track use.

My first was at 2000 miles, my next will be somewhere between 4000 to 5000 for interval. 3000 mile oil change intervals are a bit extreme when running modern day synthetics even with some track time. If the car see a lot track time, I would change it around 3-4k miles or every 3-4 track days.

So much for that idea. Thanks for being the Guinea Pig.

Klasse is good stuff, but for sealants, I prefer Wolfgang 3.0 paint sealant. It has a better shine, is much easier to buff off, and lasts about the same time frame. My current favorite combination is Wolfgang 3.0 topped with Wolfgang Fuzion. It really works with darker colors.

If the paint is swirl city, it really needs correction using a orbital buffer and compounding polish to remove the swirls.

Peter is right. Shorter tires still keep the factory geometry in place as they lower the car without changing anything in the suspension. If it was me, I would switch to 18'' wheel for weight, price, and tire options.

Just curious, but what "authority" told you 18'' wheels weren't a good idea?

I know some people have gotten up to -2.8 degrees on the MM plates and I have seen some people who have only been able to get -2 or so. I will let everyone know what I get out of the Vorshlags, the new design is supposed to have more camber adjustment...

Keep in mind I don't have camber plates yet but will soon. I will be ordering vorshlags redesign after I get back from the track attack next week . From my experience with other cars and from others experiences with these cars, -3 to -3.5 is usually the sweet spot for front camber. I believe...

Thanks again Gary. Decisions, decisions, decisions. I really just love how neutral the car handles in stock form and can't decide if possibly mucking it up is worth the risk of a square setup and a stiffer front sway bar for tire rotation.