Well ... that certainly explains why using the MGW race spec shifter in my car feels like using a precision bolt action rifle! It just ooozes with quality.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

NASA regularly runs at Sonoma. Speed SF and NCRC both run events at Laguna Seca, and at least one of them also runs at Sonoma. All have groups that range from rank beginners to full open track. If you’re a beginner, NASA is excellent. If you’re experienced, then the others might prove more...

It’s not a waste of time on a public forum such as this, because even if you don’t convince the person you’re talking to, you might end up helping someone else in a similar situation who is watching the goings on. And even better, the message persists, so someone can see what you said long...

I'm skeptical that the issue is the clutch itself. The clutch material will wear over time, but that will eventually cause it to fail to completely engage.But the problem here is that he can't disengage reliably. That means the issue is with the throwout bearing or the clutch master...

I've got these pads as well and they're just awesome. They took a bit of getting used to on the street because of how much more sensitive they are to pedal pressure than street pads. But once you get used to them, you will NOT want to go back to street pads despite the horrible screeching...

Seems to me that it's actually pretty simple. If you like how something behaves, then don't change it. As applied here, since you like how the rear behaves with the Watts setup, don't change it, even if you've stopped drinking the Kool-aid. After all, it's already a sunk expense and it's...

No you don't. If you don't use the brakes you're guaranteed to go off the track. :DSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Houston area is one of the most humid areas in the country. You should thus consider going to something like Castrol SRF, which apparently is quite a bit more resistant to boiling when "wet" than most fluids (which is why it commands a price premium). Yeah, it'll cost more for a fill, but...

I have the Exedy Stage 1 clutch and like it very much. But I don't have a Boss so I can't say how well it would handle shifting at 7500 RPM. If you want the engagement smoothness of the stock clutch (which is why I chose it. My stock clutch threw a spring) then it may be worth considering. If...

Well, come on. You can't leave us hanging in the dark here! What was it? [emoji3]Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Somewhat higher than stock, enough to be noticeable if you're used to the stock pressure, but not massively so. Say, 20% greater.The hydraulic clutch on these cars is smooth enough that the higher effort isn't bothersome at all once you get used to it.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went with the Exedy Stage 1 because I wanted the absorption characteristics of the stock clutch and pedal characteristics approaching those of the stock clutch, but wanted a clutch that would withstand track duty (my stock clutch threw one of those springs and locked up as a result).I'm...

Got the G-LOC R-12 pads on now at the track. They're excellent. No fade at all and because they're "grabbier", they don't require as much pedal effort to engage the ABS. They are a bit touchy on the street, but it's fine as long as you're gentle with them. Stab the brakes and it'll go...

I'm using the Stoptech 309 pads (https://www.amazon.com/StopTech-309-10010-Street-Performance-Front/dp/B003K2ERJU). These have a maximum operating temperature of 1300 degrees F. I looked up the Pagids you're running. The temperature graph for them (and for all of the RSL pads) maxes out at...

Oh, excellent. I was hoping that would be the case.How's the linearity of the pad? When you gently brush the brakes, does it behave the way you'd expect it to, or is the result a lot more braking than you'd expect?