That's not a bad idea. It would likely cost me significantly less than the $2500 midpipe that Kooks want for their "Green" catted midpipe. I'll look into a setup like this. Thanks!

The O2 sensors on this midpipe are directly after the midpipe cats so there isn't any room to install another cats before the rear O2 sensors on this setup unfortunately. Great idea though, had me thinking!

I did end up doing this. Unfortunately, I'm paying an astronomical amount for insurance between the Mustang and my daily driver so if a solution for this issue presents itself to pass emissions with all readiness monitors, I'd be over the moon still.

This is a fantastic idea and I reached around to a few friends but unfortunately no such luck. It was something I was thinking about early on since it's such an easy route. I'm also wondering why / how every 11-14 S197 owner with LTHs is not having this issue... do some LTH brands not have this...

Not a bad idea. I'll think about this a bit more, I wonder if loading all the way at the end of the mufflers would get to the O2 sensors... or if I would have to load it just after the O2 sensors. I saw on another forum one of the S197 guys welded on a circular plate right after the O2 sensors...

I really wish I had the ability to throw the stock midpipe back on without swapping the headers on the car.

Unfortunately, my current exhaust system won't let me swap anything out to solve this problem other than Kooks $2,500 green cats midpipe (which I have not purchased... yet). Unless there is another green cats midpipe available from a different company that I do not currently know about that...

Hey folks, 2013 Mustang GT here. I've been fighting passing emissions for the last year or so. I'm in Arizona, so emissions regulations are relaxed here, but only 1 system in the monitor readiness check is allowed to be "not ready" by Arizona law. My car has an issue getting O2 sensor and O2...

As someone very new to the track scene (still haven't hit the track, I'm a window shopper still), this was really helpful to read and understand how springs, ARBs, and other points of the suspension all work together.

I couldn't agree more. I was stubborn on not taking that route, and I'm glad I was since the input shaft was not inside of the pilot bearing.

Reviving a slightly old thread here with a solution! Thanks to everybody's recommendations, I decided to go ahead and order a steel clutch alignment tool from McLeod Racing (part #: 105111-S). As I loosened up the pressure plate and fiddled with the new steel alignment tool, the tool slipped in...

I’ve been reading through everybody’s replies and I’m becoming more comfortable with pulling in the transmission with the bolts. I pulled it in a bit with the bolts but stopped out of fear. While I pulled it in, the trans bolts had very little resistance on them and a small wrench was not hard...

This is exactly the issue I am having and the thought process I've went through. I've went through 2 brand new throwout bearings already by pumping the clutch pedal just a few times since pumping the clutch pedal on these new hydraulic systems pushes the piston out of the TOB rendering it...

This is a great idea. I will do that and hopefully we get some results from it. Thanks for the suggestion.

That’s quite interesting. I’ll order a steel alignment tool as a start and hopefully that’ll give me some results. Thanks!!