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Are you sure the hose is damaged? I recall a few people reporting issues with the push on connector to the reservoir working loose.....
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Photo of the damaged end.
Paint overspray when my interior was painted.
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You could try a motorcycle dealer to see if they have bulk hose for brake reservoirs in that size.
My hose like that had worked a bit loose. There was a thread on one of the forums about it. It's under tension as it's installed, not too good a design. Maybe I'll go check mine again.
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My hose like that had worked a bit loose. There was a thread on one of the forums about it. It's under tension as it's installed, not too good a design. Maybe I'll go check mine again.
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- #165
I will. thanks
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LMR or..one of those mustang .com sights has the steel brake line for that
Not for the GT350. Nobody offers a steel line to the trans.
also not for any clutch pedal to brake master cylinder reservoir.
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OK, maybe we made up ours then, I was pretty sure they were purchased though
If you know of an aftermarket option I’m interested in them. I looked everywhere and found nothing. I have long tube headers and feel more comfortable with a steel line over a plastic clutch line.
The headers are no where near causing melting, but I’d still like a better steel line.
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I question the need. The factory setup is pretty good. Nice duct from the front aimed right at the rotor, vented wheel wells. I think you get more cooling velocity coming from the front down the factory duct and shooting right at the rotor vs a flexible dryer vent style hose snaked around to aimed right at the back of the rotor. All the bends just slow the cool air down. Good velocity in and good venting out. I haven’t heard of the factory brakes cooking themselves.
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We have AP brakes. Same as the FP350S, those also have ducts. Even though the AP brakes are superior over the OEM brembo brakes additional cooling would be nice.
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@spartan is building a race car.
The stock cooling is pretty good, but it's not fully effective under trail braking as wheel lock closes off the air flow on the outside wheel that's doing all the work.
I've experienced rotor grooving on both cross drilled and slotted rotors, with race pads, which in discussion with rotor manufacturers we believe is due to localized hot spots. It's not excessive (with slotted rotors) until later in rotor life, but still significant on all 3 sets of rotor rings I've consumed.
Both the GT4 and FP350S use fully ducted cooling directly to the rotor. I have not found a source for those solutions, but am still researching and will upgrade if/when a solution is available. The challenge, is that unlike the S197, the inner hub surface is not flat and has complex compound curves that any solution needs to accommodate.
I've experienced rotor grooving on both cross drilled and slotted rotors, with race pads, which in discussion with rotor manufacturers we believe is due to localized hot spots. It's not excessive (with slotted rotors) until later in rotor life, but still significant on all 3 sets of rotor rings I've consumed.
Both the GT4 and FP350S use fully ducted cooling directly to the rotor. I have not found a source for those solutions, but am still researching and will upgrade if/when a solution is available. The challenge, is that unlike the S197, the inner hub surface is not flat and has complex compound curves that any solution needs to accommodate.
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OPMustang Tim
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Have you spoken to Dean about the Carbon Fiber ones from the GT4? I believe these are using the GT350 Knuckle Assembly and I'm pretty sure Dean had some with him at the Audi event for sale.
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I have not spoken to Dean about brake cooling. The stuff he has is usually terrific but super pricey. It’s why I wanted to see if there were alternatives before I did.
Installed Mikes jacking plates.
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