Tubular K Member....Or stock?? 20 lbs....

Mad Hatter · Apr 18, 2018

Just found out my K member is shifted over three mm and my tubular A arm is a little bent as well... Should I go the Tubular K member route?? Or the stronger looking stock set up.... (roughly half the price, but twice the weight). Any ways will have to wait till after Saturdays race.

2012-Boss · Apr 18, 2018

Either the stock K-Member or the Maximum Motorsports K-member. The MM K-member uses stock A-arms and ball joints. You will need to call MM to get everything needed. I don't think they list everything for installing the K-member, sway bar, z-brace, and transmission scoop on their site, but it is available.

2012-Boss · Apr 18, 2018

I forgot to mention, the MM K-member is not lighter than OEM. So, if your reason for going to an aftermarket K-member is weight, I would save your money and use the OEM part. I know you can get a lighter K-member, but I would rather have some extra weight for strength and stiffness mounting and locating the front suspension components.

Grant 302 · Apr 18, 2018

2012-Boss said:
Maximum Motorsports K-member

+1 for OPM points.

I was going to mention the weight. I never think it wise to put 'drag race' parts on a road race car. Such parts are even worse on a dual purpose street/track car.

Either stock or the MM K. I'd stay away from really light frames...

Mad Hatter · Apr 19, 2018

Yes looking at the OEM cradel compared to the BMR one..... The OEM is far more massive.... and cheaper..... Cheaper and stonger always wins!

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Tubular K Member....Or stock?? 20 lbs....

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Mad Hatter

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2012-Boss

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Grant 302

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Mad Hatter

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