captdistraction
GrumpyRacer
Long story short I bought a autoblip and immediately had issues with it.
The car would go into limp mode fairly repeatedly regardless of the state the autoblip was in. I had built a bypass for it because I somewhat anticipated that risk having seen similar behavior on other cars and the effect it has on a race weekend (being towed in, or losing sessions).
Well I spoke with the company that makes them today and the issue is driven very specifically by a loss of either the +12V or ground signal (both taps on the brake pedal). When that happens it can drain power from the TPS signals, and once the ECU sees variance from TPS1 or 2 to each other, it shuts down.
The included T-Taps are likely my issue (as it would fail running or bypassed), I checked them carefully to make sure they had good contact on the wires, but the recommendation from Tractive Technology was to solder this unit in.
My concern is that once soldered in that the only option I have to disable the system is to literally cut it out, and if it begins misbehaving during a race, I'm done.
So what I proposed was to build a relay that would disconnect the two TPS signals from the autoblip, effectively preventing it from altering those signals regardless of state of the +12V or ground. (whereas the way I have it now wouldn't have been effective as moving the bypass to OFF would literally create this issue). It would likely have to be solid state, but still risk that anything happening to those signals would cause the ECU to go into limp mode. Tractive Technology recommended against this and mentioned again they feel soldering it in would solve my issues.
For a HPDE car, this isn't a huge deal but for a competition car I cannot add anything that takes any bit of reliability from the car. My options are to sell the unit (I have it listed for now) or try this solid state relay or other means of physical disconnection (maybe just a DPST switch on the TPS circuits versus a relay? Is a switch reliable enough to deal with vibration?)
Wanted to get thoughts on this. I know they've been reliable for others but I cannot take on any risk.
The car would go into limp mode fairly repeatedly regardless of the state the autoblip was in. I had built a bypass for it because I somewhat anticipated that risk having seen similar behavior on other cars and the effect it has on a race weekend (being towed in, or losing sessions).
Well I spoke with the company that makes them today and the issue is driven very specifically by a loss of either the +12V or ground signal (both taps on the brake pedal). When that happens it can drain power from the TPS signals, and once the ECU sees variance from TPS1 or 2 to each other, it shuts down.
The included T-Taps are likely my issue (as it would fail running or bypassed), I checked them carefully to make sure they had good contact on the wires, but the recommendation from Tractive Technology was to solder this unit in.
My concern is that once soldered in that the only option I have to disable the system is to literally cut it out, and if it begins misbehaving during a race, I'm done.
So what I proposed was to build a relay that would disconnect the two TPS signals from the autoblip, effectively preventing it from altering those signals regardless of state of the +12V or ground. (whereas the way I have it now wouldn't have been effective as moving the bypass to OFF would literally create this issue). It would likely have to be solid state, but still risk that anything happening to those signals would cause the ECU to go into limp mode. Tractive Technology recommended against this and mentioned again they feel soldering it in would solve my issues.
For a HPDE car, this isn't a huge deal but for a competition car I cannot add anything that takes any bit of reliability from the car. My options are to sell the unit (I have it listed for now) or try this solid state relay or other means of physical disconnection (maybe just a DPST switch on the TPS circuits versus a relay? Is a switch reliable enough to deal with vibration?)
Wanted to get thoughts on this. I know they've been reliable for others but I cannot take on any risk.
