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spacer: HUB-CENTRIC vs WHEEL HUB-CENTRIC

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This is what you want with ARP wheel studs.


Run, do not walk, away from this product.

@VoodooBoss
or HUB CENTRIC ?
https://www.americanmuscle.com/1in-billet-aluminum-wheel-spacers-2015.html

I guess first different is wheel centric might need longer studs.

any advantages one or the other?
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Never, ever use the "bolt-on" spacer types for track use (and personally, I would never use them on the street, either). Who knows what their studs are made out of.

The right way to do this is to use a slip-on style spacer combined with longer aftermarket studs (preferably ARP), or if you have an S550, GT350R hubs with OEM long studs.
 
Never, ever use the "bolt-on" spacer types for track use (and personally, I would never use them on the street, either). Who knows what their studs are made out of.

The right way to do this is to use a slip-on style spacer combined with longer aftermarket studs (preferably ARP), or if you have an S550, GT350R hubs with OEM long studs.
Thanks guys.
I have 550.
My plan was spacer(no bolts on) amd arp studs.

Do I need to change Hub too?
Has the 350 a bigger diameter stud or not?


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ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
You don't need to change the hub--you can knock the factory studs out of the existing hubs and install ARP studs.
An option (maybe easier?) is to switch to the 350R hubs, which have longer studs from the factory (although I am not sure what is the maximum thickness spacer they will tolerate--maybe someone else can chime in here).
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Never, ever use the "bolt-on" spacer types for track use (and personally, I would never use them on the street, either). Who knows what their studs are made out of.

Agreed. NEVER use one of those.

Studs aren't my main concern with those. The trouble with that design is that each set of studs pulls against the other and puts a lot of the spacer in tension (bending, but part in tension) and I wouldn't trust aluminum to do that job. Cracks and imperfections would propagate *very* quickly.

Conversely, long studs and a spacer keep the spacer in 100% compression, zero tension and all the tension is kept in the studs as it should be. Essentially, the same as no spacer aside from the offset of the loads, etc.
 
Yeah.
From a mechanical point of view you double the micromovement of every components. There is always a little play between holes and studs. Plus you count on the alluminiun spacer to torque the wheel.
Agree

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 
1,246
1,243
In the V6L
You don't need to change the hub--you can knock the factory studs out of the existing hubs and install ARP studs.
An option (maybe easier?) is to switch to the 350R hubs, which have longer studs from the factory (although I am not sure what is the maximum thickness spacer they will tolerate--maybe someone else can chime in here).
The 350R hub solution works great for a GT350, but the OP has a GT (at least that's what his sig says) and it's a different front hub. Now, the upside to a non-GT350 is that FP makes a replacement front hub with ARP studs already installed:
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-1104-AB
 
215
210
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal

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