S550 GT350R Race Car Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

bpracer · May 22, 2018

This is when a bead roller would be nice to stiffen the softer aluminum.

It's probably more difficult to find but I've had some pieces of heat treated aluminum sheet that were plenty stiff.

Black Boss said:
Just looking for best material availability -- need 4" pipe and 12" x 24" plate. Steel is stiffer, so I'd have to go with 4mm Aluminum to be sure the backing plate doesn't buckle under steering loads as the mounting points are well behind the duct inlet...

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Black Boss · May 22, 2018

ArizonaBOSS said:
Looking great.

For the windshield blowers--does one go to each side of the windshield? I'm thinking to order a couple myself...

One goes to drivers side, the other to the center of the windshield— I figured I didn’t need to worry about Defog on the extreme passenger side.....

Black Boss · May 22, 2018

I'm revisiting the brake duct design. Unlike the Boss ducts, the GT4 directs cooling just to the inner rotor hat/ring cooling vanes. That will require substantially more fabrication. Now on iteration 3 of the hub attachment, in green. My wife said it looked like a kids craft project!

OPMustang Tim · May 22, 2018

We used .080" 6061 T6, its fairly rigid.

Bill Pemberton · May 24, 2018

Now , Black Boss , you are coming to the Mustang Roundup this year , correct? Heh, I just figure with all the cool stuff you are doing , and all the interest in your beast, we could charge admission to see this Monster -- or if nothing else have folks pay for your autograph with proceeds going to the Food Bank, ha.

Great thread and I have a feeling I am going to get my lunch eaten by this 350 Racing Stang!!!

Next Phase · May 24, 2018

Kevin Guzniczak said:
There is a trick for disabling the charm where you turn on the ignition and then clip and unclip the seatbelt several times to turn it off permanently. Will that work for you?

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I was researching this exact question.

What has everyone done about the chiming for the seat belts?

I was thinking of getting a 2nd seat belt attachment (male end)

spartan · May 24, 2018

I don't hear the chime. I have the same setup.

Next Phase said:
I was researching this exact question.

What has everyone done about the chiming for the seat belts?

I was thinking of getting a 2nd seat belt attachment (male end)

Next Phase · May 24, 2018

spartan said:
I don't hear the chime. I have the same setup.

You have a chime, but don't hear it / pay attention to it while on track?

BTW, Amazon sells a 2 piece carbon fiber seat belt clip for $7.99.

8250RPM · May 26, 2018

Black Boss said:
I'm revisiting the brake duct design. Unlike the Boss ducts, the GT4 directs cooling just to the inner rotor hat/ring cooling vanes. That will require substantially more fabrication. Now on iteration 3 of the hub attachment, in green. My wife said it looked like a kids craft project!

View attachment 4155

To properly cool the rotor, the air needs to be directed into the inner rotor as you said.
I made these from 4” round aluminum tubing and plan at some point to make the inclosed housing.
.060 aluminum is plenty strong once the ducts are formed and welded.
By using the round tubing I was able to elongate the shape by using a simple form in my press. The width and length of the elongation is determined by the die that I make. Here’s a few simple examples.
This is in the raw before any trimming.

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VoodooBoss · May 26, 2018

Nice work, are you considering making extras and selling them?

8250RPM · May 26, 2018

Again these are just sample piece. Not a finished part. I can stretch the tube more and a narrower width.
I plan on adding a bead at the round end to help keep the hose clamp from sliding off once the finished piece is made.

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8250RPM · May 26, 2018

VoodooBoss said:
Nice work, are you considering making extras and selling them?

If I were to make these, I could only provide them for the AP brakes because that is what I have on my car.
I could also make a set for OEM brakes at a later date. It all depends on how close the I.D. Of the oem rotor is to the AP rotors I.D. I’ll have to check that.

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Black Boss · May 26, 2018

@8250RPM Very nice. My plan was to effectively block off just under half the 4" tube so that air is diverted only to the cooling vanes. Your approach is obviously superior re air flow.

However, having made up templates and fitted them to the car, I've concluded there is no way to run 4" ducting to the facia, due to interference with the sway bar and the magneride strut/wiring at the bottom of the strut when the wheel is turned in.

I've seen the routing on the GT4, and it runs right where our sway bar is (the GT4 has a blade style sway bar). I have not seen the routing on the FR350S, but obviously that has no Magneride....

If anyone has pictures of the 350S routing, please post up. It's also possible they modified the sway bay end link length. Thanks!!

8250RPM · May 26, 2018

Black Boss said:
@8250RPM Very nice. My plan was to effectively block off just under half the 4" tube so that air is diverted only to the cooling vanes. Your approach is obviously superior re air flow.

However, having made up templates and fitted them to the car, I've concluded there is no way to run 4" ducting to the facia, due to interference with the sway bar and the magneride strut/wiring at the bottom of the strut when the wheel is turned in.

I've seen the routing on the GT4, and it runs right where our sway bar is (the GT4 has a blade style sway bar). I have not seen the routing on the FR350S, but obviously that has no Magneride....

If anyone has pictures of the 350S routing, please post up. It's also possible they modified the sway bay end link length. Thanks!!

Your wish is my command. I just took these yesterday. What I don’t like about the FP350S is the lack of the duct going into the ID of the rotor.
A simple wood buck can easily be used as a form.
I also have GT4 pics of the ducts if you like.

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8250RPM · May 26, 2018

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Black Boss · May 26, 2018

Thanks @8250RPM The underpan shot is very helpful. They flattened out the ducting where it turns in under the floorpan to help with lateral clearance -- that was where I was seeing the sway bar issue. That will increase the vertical clearance required and we have brake pipes there -- the FP350S does not. Im going to reinstall my template and see if there's a route.....

8250RPM · May 26, 2018

Black Boss said:
Thanks @8250RPM The underpan shot is very helpful. They flattened out the ducting where it turns in under the floorpan to help with lateral clearance -- that was where I was seeing the sway bar issue. That will increase the vertical clearance required and we have brake pipes there -- the FP350S does not. Im going to reinstall my template and see if there's a route.....

I believe one more like the GT4 can be made to work.

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Black Boss · May 26, 2018

8250RPM said:
Your wish is my command. I just took these yesterday. What I don’t like about the FP350S is the lack of the duct going into the ID of the rotor.
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Also, The GT4 ducts do a better job of closing the gap to the inner face of the rotor

8250RPM · May 26, 2018

Black Boss said:
Also, The GT4 ducts do a better job of closing the gap to the inner face of the rotor

Exactly that’s I’m saying.
I can form the duct to fit inside the rotor with a plate like your template

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8250RPM · May 26, 2018

With a piece of routered MDF wood, I can make a buck and form the aluminum to put a radius on the leading edge of the aluminum. Or I can use a bead roller, but the bead roller has a tendency of distorting the material.
Another option is to spin it on my lathe and form the radius.
Once the radius is on, then the plate can be trimmed to allow for the inlet tube and to fasten it to the knuckle.

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