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Ben Calimer MT82 installed

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Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Yea...... its true..... I would do it but for my location and already have a lot invested in items like drive shaft etc.... It costs about US$1500 to rebuild the MT82, Parts are easy and quick to import.... Bringing a Magnum kit would cost me about US$7500 with customs and duties...... So I guess I will fix two of my MT82, and swap often... Maybe one day.......
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Saw this today on Ben Calimers facebook page. MT82 eye candy! New G-force gear set. He did mention something about 1000hp capacity???? Its US$3000 plus a MT82 to rebuild.....

35889136_2104508143129924_2313696361209397248_n.jpg
 
I have one of those eye candy G-force sets being installed by Calimer in a spare MT-82 I sent him last week.

I've been running his stage 2 rebuild for a couple of years - 20+track days. The only issue I'm having is sticky shifts at times into reverse and 1st - no issues on track. That being said, I want to have a spare tranny ready to swap just in case.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
It has to do with the drive shaft, clutch etc as well.... Been sitting in the fence for ages about this! A whole kit would be over $5000... plus already have a mgw shifter and all that
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
That's always the trick. After we're 3/4 of the way down the upgrades path, we say "well, if I could do it all over again I'd do xxxxx."
Dedicated track cars could go from stock to tremec/clutch/shifter/drive shaft/rear gears and be better off in the long run.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
So true.... but I have several dead Mt82's waiting to get rebuilt.... will see if Ben can do one soon. Plug and play sounds appealing!..... oh!! And lighter!

Sent from my SM-G900M using Tapatalk
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
392
497
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
SE WI
You guys really need to think outside of the production car world when you are racing. A Jerico is half the weight of a magnum, it shifts way faster (about 1/2 a car length advantage on every up shift), it makes heal and toe downshifts much easier and is at least 10 times more durable. You can not hurt a Jerico with only 500hp. If you ever had one, you would never, ever, never go back to any tremec or mt82.

Here's a brand new Jerico with shifter for $5k.
https://www.racingjunk.com/Manual-T....html?search=jerico&np_offset=2&from=search#4

Save money, you only need 1 Jerico
Reduce weight
Go faster
Brake deeper
 

JDee

Ancient Racer
1,797
2,001
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
5 miles from Mosport
Wouldn't a 4 speed be a handicap with a Coyote though? A brand new Jerico 5S-RR 5 speed is $5300. If it's as tough as you say and can be made to fit without spending yards more cash it would seem to be money well spent for hard nuts racer dudes.
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
392
497
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
SE WI
Wouldn't a 4 speed be a handicap with a Coyote though? A brand new Jerico 5S-RR 5 speed is $5300. If it's as tough as you say and can be made to fit without spending yards more cash it would seem to be money well spent for hard nuts racer dudes.

A 5 spd is typically not needed for amateur road racing. There are no pits stops so you don't really need a low 1st gear. 4 gears on track is what virtually everyone uses. You can get any ratio you want 1st to 3rd. 4th is 1-1. Its also possible to do 3rd 1-1 and 4th an OD like 0.85. Just depends on min speed, max speed and rear gear.

I have no issues with Jerico 5 speeds except they cost more and are heavier.

These really are bulletproof. They are all based on nascar transmissions, 3600 lbs, 900 hp, circle track racers who left foot brake, blip the throttle and force the downshift.

Jericos are more or less bolt in. Quicktime makes the needed bellhousing. The input shaft can be speced at 26 spline. There is also a bigger dia version, 31 spline maybe? (its the diameter that matters not really the spline count but they go together).

The output shaft is the old style slip yoke, 31 spline. You would need a different driveshaft or have yours modified by a good driveshaft shop.

Clutches would be the same. Hydraulic throw out may need to change. Overall its not a direct bolt in but for racing these are the things you need to do to be bulletproof. Plus its 1 and done. No backup trans, no pile of clapped out MT82s. No 160lb magnum. You are now done with transmissions for a very long time. Your car is lighter and you are faster. I'm really surprised that this isn't common.

If you really want the big dog trans get a weismann. They are really trick. They have a set of rear end quick change gears in the back so you can change the final drive ratio to be optimum at every track from Road America to the shortest, slowest street circuit. That plus 5 speeds and its still 50lbs lighter than a magnum.

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/transmission/weismann-racing-transmissions.html
 
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racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
392
497
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
SE WI
Just so you know I'm not talking out my ***. My racing transmission history is this....

top loader 4 speed
close ratio top loader 4 speed
jerico 4 speed (kept it and put it in another car)
saenz 5 speed (the goodyear car in my sig)
jerico 2 speed (the 47 late model in my sig)

The silver street car has a tr6060. Its adequate for the street but sucks compared to any of the above.
 

JDee

Ancient Racer
1,797
2,001
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
5 miles from Mosport
Just so you know I'm not talking out my ***. My racing transmission history is this....

top loader 4 speed
close ratio top loader 4 speed
jerico 4 speed (kept it and put it in another car)
saenz 5 speed (the goodyear car in my sig)
jerico 2 speed (the 47 late model in my sig)

The silver street car has a tr6060. Its adequate for the street but sucks compared to any of the above.

Never entered my mind for a second, it's obvious you know your way around this topic well. The entirety of my motorsport involvement has been with cars that were essentially stock bodied containing the original, albeit often highly modified drive train. When I was a teenager I hung around with an FF race team that used Hewland transaxles, but that's the closest to a proper racing trans that I've ever been.

I've heard all these names before but never really paid much attention since class rules prevented using them. Spent some time reading the links you posted, very interesting stuff especially the Weismann. Looks like that one would be tough to put in anything but a tube framed car but neat concept for sure, especially the final drive gear ratio changeability. Thanks for the trans tour!
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
392
497
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
SE WI
I didn't mean anything towards you, just explaining my background.

Yeah the weismann is a tough fit in any production car. Its wide not tall. The main shaft and counter shaft are side by side not up and down. This is needed for ultra low mounted motors w shallow dry sump oil pans.

Click the pdf link near the bottom of the web page i listed above. It shows a pic of the trans and the price, "only" $10,500. But for a $100k+ Trans Am or GT1 car, thats not unreasonable.
 
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Got my stage 1 calimer trans installed! Have a spec stage 2+ w billet pressure plate.. mgw shifter.

1. I didnt know the stock mgw is also short throw.
2. I put a brand new slave in. Factory
3. Pedal bite point is a bit closer to the floor..
4. Trans went from a loud whiner to quiet as a baby and thats w the mgw.
5. Its so nice. There is effort going into gears but i think its due to the short throw vs original. I am a bit worried why the bite point is lower..
6. Is there a way to see if im getting enough clutch extension?

Should have done this a long time ago. Got the laguna air scoop brace too.
 
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I just had a Exedy Hyper clutch installed and my bite point is way down at the bottom now. For a guy with short legs and a new AutoBlip, it sucks needing to push it all the way to the bottom to work. I put a pedal extension on the clutch so I don't have to sit as close to the wheel. Wish the whole pedal group was adjustable. But now the shifts are no drama and no crunching.
 

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