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What did you do to your GT350 or S550 Mustang today?

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Got the car back from AFE Power, working with them on some new stuff for the 2018s. Also waiting on the first 2018 heat extractors from trackspec that should be on within a month
 
492
387
DFW, TX
More progress on the hood. The aluminum on these hoods is very thin, the strength comes from the two layers and the foam in between. I didn't want to just use the outer layer to attach the latches. I made some spacers to sandwich as much of the two layers as possible. On the passenger side there isn't much there, but two bolts go through both layers. The rest of the spacer just spreads the load.

The drivers side has two full layers you have to go through. How much of the circumference of the spacer I can use will depend on how much foam they put in the void. The foam still compresses easily so I think the spacers are a good idea. I'll have maybe four bolts sandwiched with my spacers.

The provided bolts are not quit long enough when you do this. (I dropped one somewhere in the engine compartment....non-magnetic cuz stainless, so may never find it, sigh...) Pro-Bolt USA likely has some black stainless bolts I can substitute. I used them to source the vent bolts.

One latch I did perfect, the passenger side, well... Only the person painting my hood will see I got something not quite right the first time.15cb6a60df6bd8c3f965199519b9749e.jpg673f2b84360aac2e9e8c14c34d879c8a.jpgeb4f67821aee0835ea90921c5d0dd740.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
492
387
DFW, TX
If only it was already painted black.

I may leave the center area magnetic grey.

Still some little items, washer jets, stock latch, but this took a while. The aero latches can be a bit finicky to get just right.6b81b8173c89935db43d50ed3c6bfa03.jpg

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492
387
DFW, TX
Check your splitter install....

Oh wait, that's not what I'm doing.

No turning back now, installing modified grill and front tow hook. It's not that bad so far but undoing the front fender clips at the side was what I was warned about.

Hint, pry the first clip apart from the back with a nylon trim removal wedge and it will be easier and less likely to break a clip on the fender.

A body shop warned me about that part.feff56a8dd5b510ff3de05b6243235d4.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
492
387
DFW, TX
Yea those clips break easily. :rolleyes: There's got to be a better way to install them and according to @steveespo they are improved on the 2018's.
I had enquired about this job from the body shop that gave me a quote for painting my hood. And they were hesitant. They had broke some clips on a new GT350 nose. It would have cost a fortune to have a shop do this work. I'm wondering if they knew to remove the screw that pulls the snap block tight to the fender as mentioned in the tow hook instructions.

I was actually replacing the grille, not modifying it. The grille as actually quite difficult to remove from the bumper assembly. On the flip side, modifying a grille in place would be tricky.

Anyway, I think the FP rear tow hook install is worse than this so I may use the ZL1 sourced rear hook and drill the bumper cover behind the license plate.ab7cc9ca51176b0d1df90b6e291a12c2.jpg

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6c1e6c41102fa86740e8ceabc521e139.jpg
There is a corresponding flange on the fender and a wedge block with two studs and a pushpin fits between them to tighten and adjust the alignment of the joint.


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It's encouraging that Ford realized this was an issue and fixed it. Hopefully that works much better than the clips.
 

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