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Well, time to take the engine out again!

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Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
To be honest, i don't think I would have made it throught the last endurance race with out A/C Is was about 30 deg C (86F). Dont have a cool suit... I used to race in the summer (Dec, Jan and Feb down here). then we would see temps up to 38C (100F).

Now that I am sticking more to one series, I have thought about taking out the A/C. I am sure the engine temps would drop with out the A/C...
Coolsuit tyme?
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
heads are off and cylinders look good so far... fingers crossed but nothing very scary looking....

Scared to see how much ye Olde Cool Suit costs
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Heads are off and cylinders look good so far... fingers crossed but nothing scary looking....
So far!
Great! Hopefully, it's mostly heavier carbon buildup causing poor ring sealing or something like that. Post pics when you can!

Would this be a help??
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fms-m-8c607-msvt
Fan from the 2013+ GT500 is very affordable.
It's reported to be better by several members. Hard to quantify, but it has helped some cars with persistent overheating issues.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Hmm.... take the A/C out and save weight... then add a cooler system... Can you keep beer in those things for after??
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
With respect to running with the AC on, do they allow you to run on the tracks in Chile with the windows up?

Yes we can run with the windows half open.... Usually always run with the AC off, right after the checkered flag I hit the max air button. Only in the Enduro race did I have it going while racing.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Hmmm.... are my calculations right? Take out all the A/C and save 20 lbs...... Add a cool suit and add 40 lbs???
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Sounds about right. Maybe a bit more savings in the A/C than that.

Maybe it makes more sense to just catch the condensate water instead of draining it when you put it that way.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Well jsut got back form the shop... Everything los like STD with some ragged edges on the exhaust valves and a broken ring on number 8 cylinder but no deep scratchs or wear.

Piston with broken ring......
49948078_10215722878483705_2297394181477236736_o.jpg


All the guts on the table
50461634_10215722889203973_9220728742182125568_o.jpg


Crank looks ok, ugly rough oiling holes need a bit of tender loving care.
50050182_10215722884923866_3066630739815563264_o.jpg



Nothing scary!!
49899191_10215722883843839_5777282594294988800_o.jpg


Nice and shiny!
50071368_10215722879323726_4304737418885464064_o.jpg


Worn bearings
49998726_10215722884283850_3002567093527773184_o.jpg



Valves with broken ring
49822902_10215722890444004_7826250176539918336_o.jpg


All the other valves...
50241584_10215722890043994_6569099466450665472_o.jpg



My mecanics already want to port the heads. like the Intakes but no the exhaust side.
50754195_10215722882483805_4517884095891505152_o.jpg


Golden intakes thanks to MMT!

50565287_10215722886803913_3410419721986637824_o.jpg


Intake and exhaust valves
49896852_10215722890644009_3371874898765938688_o.jpg


-PAXP-deijE.gif


50051871_10215722885523881_5485331380600569856_o.jpg


Thats all I had time for tonight!!

Will be adding oil squiters... does any one have the part number?? Have only seen then in kit form. Do you think its time for new valves???


-PAXP-deijE.gif
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
You did good there. Smart to do the compression test and subsequent tear down. You saved the engine for sure.

Not 100% sure on the squirter part numbers. I came up with
BR3Z 6K868-D as the latest. I'd call FP when you get a chance or confirm elsewhere.

At the very least, I'd polish all the exhaust port parts that built-up heavy carbon deposits. Easy to see all that crap by the seat. Could you take more pics later of both sides of int and ex ports? Should be telling on where material should come out, IMO. Get as close as you can with the camera focus and use flash if you have to. I do see where the intake seat transition and bowl could be cleaned up a bit. But I wouldn't want to add intake volume and take away port velocity or the OEM CNC roughness. Not for a high RPM engine, IMO. Maybe if you had somebody local with a good CNC profile already programmed, but I doubt you have access to one.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Grant will do! My Builder want to add a little epoxy to the Intake to smooth out the air to the valve... but I feel like this might not be the best idea in the world......


Coz, no oddly enough the oil in the catch can did not increase... (only have on on the passenger side). And the car did not smoke.... Just a general loss of power made me want to check the compression. Even the logs were almost the same withthe same MAF.. I thought the MAF would go down with loss in compression...... But my Boss has always been a oil consumer since it was new new.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Very happy to see nothing major!! Now to damage the credit card in Summit, Tasca etc...

With luck the parts will arrive middle of next week and we can start building.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
@Mad Hatter I tagged you in an old thread of mine on FB when I was rebuilding my engine. It's fairly easy (albeit time-consuming) to clean all of that orange crap off.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Grant will do! My Builder want to add a little epoxy to the Intake to smooth out the air to the valve... but I feel like this might not be the best idea in the world......
That's not the worst idea either. IF (big if) you were going to 'realign' the whole intake port, epoxy one side and port the other would be the way to go. But only if someone is very well versed in these heads would I allow them to do it. Everybody has their own theories about raising or lowering ports and short side profiles, etc. Without radically changing the flow strategy, I'd leave the general alignment alone and only 'fix' the areas that are difficult for the CNC tooling to get to or blend from work 'joined' from both sides of the port.

I see the exhaust side as relatively easy to improve with 'traditional' methods. Almost anything done without hogging out material will improve flow and reduce pumping losses. Polishing will also help maintain that flow until next service.

Very happy to see nothing major!! Now to damage the credit card in Summit, Tasca etc...

With luck the parts will arrive middle of next week and we can start building.

Yes, very happy for you on that note! Considering your use and the Enduro, I do think things held up pretty well.
 

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