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Recommended ball joints/tie rod ends/bearings

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Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I was thinking no knock-back should mean not hubs, but your PBRs are on sliders, right? Might not be as much of an issue compared to any of the Brembo calipers.
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
Perhaps before spending the money on new hubs or ball joints, etc., buy a couple of the one time use hub nuts from Ford and pull the hub(s). They are sealed bearings but maybe you can see if there is anything obvious going on.

You can also swap the hubs from one side to the other. If the RF doesn't click anymore but then the LF does, then that's the issue.

You won't even need to get it realigned to check or replace the hub bearings. Of course, you'll need a kick-ass torque wrench.
 

Duane Black

Curbs go brrrppp
567
401
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Durham, NC
I think I need to get it back in the air and get someone else to shake it and then determine ball joint/wheel bearing. If I do get wheel bearings, is the FR500S bearing worth it? I read someone who thought that it's just a standard system with ARP studs, and I don't really need ARP studs but I'd swing the money if it's a "higher quality" bearing?
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I "upgraded" to standard GT brake calipers. They are the sliding type caliper. Haven't decided to cough up thousands for better system yet.

I'm not saying you need to. Just that the PBRs won't be as susceptible to knock-back, with regard to this diagnosis. Brembos will knock-back if the hubs are loose.

I do think the upgraded hubs are just the studs.
 

Duane Black

Curbs go brrrppp
567
401
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Durham, NC
If the hub bearing isn't the problem, it's got to be part of the solution. I have caster camber plates, and I discovered the camber bolt holding the a-arm was a little loose. I guess it couldn't take the excessive G forces of Charlotte - tightening it may have reduced the steering issue in my imagination at least but the wheel bearing still ticks. I jacked the car up today and tested tie rods a few ways, making sure every little movement of the wheel was seen by my girlfriend who monitored the steering wheel, checked the tie rods with her shaking the wheel and me under the car, pry bar checked the ball joints by lifting up on the wheel and shaking to monitor the movement. There's still that tick when you shake on the wheel correctly.

I guess those cam bolts really are a one time use and having the arms off a few times toasts them. Thought I had put them together with red loctite too.

I noticed today I have a creak in the front when turning/accelerating/decelerating - thinking that's probably polyurethane mounts doing polyurethane stuff since there's no noise or movement when sitting still and moving anything.

Thanks for all the help - I'll report back with my results. I ordered bearings this morning.
 
6,361
8,183
It pays to center the rack and mark it, both the rack itself and the tie rods, they are pretty weak, although I don't recall ever breaking a rack we sure bent a bunch of tie rods over the years, and because of the boots, it wasn't readily apparent.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,424
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20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Well, great , I kept my mouth shut as I knew eventually , BS1 would pop in here and give us his words of wisdom, but................instead of flapping his gums like some do ( I have no idea whom that may be ) , we get a few sentences and that is all?! Since many of you know I, Billy Blacksheep Fanboy, kind of like the mechanical meanderings of the Pennsylvania Phoenix Tech, I have to complain that his response is way too short and why didn't he recommend some killer tie rods he uses on the FeeNix Moosetang Rayz Kar? Come on BS, spill the beans on what tie rods you like , since you mention you have bent a bunch over the years?

If you want to recommend or comment on A arms ( lower and upper) that would be fine too, or ..................is it another of the secrets of why you guys are so damn fast, hence you can't be hinting at what you likezzz ?
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,424
8,349
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
My Ray Sing Kar has pulled close to 1.9 gs on Blizzaks and I caught a fish last week that weighed close to 100 pounds - using a 3 lb . test line. But, I am still not too sheepish to ask BS 1 for his sterling recommendations, ha,ha!
 
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Well, I hate to disappoint you guys but to my knowledge we use stock tie rod ends, maybe Moog replacements now and then.
SRSLY, when we're in town you guys need to come by and borrow a creeper. I think the theory is,,bend the tie rods, save the rack, bend the panhard bar, save the chassis brackets...
 

Duane Black

Curbs go brrrppp
567
401
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Durham, NC
Is there a way to get a factory joint without a whole control arm? Or you just run the whole thing?

I figured the ends were weak on purpos . That energy has to go somewhere. If you put in stiffer rods, you send that jolt to the more expensive rack.
 

Duane Black

Curbs go brrrppp
567
401
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Durham, NC
Diagnosis and for now solved. For now.

It turned out the knuckle to strut bolt wasn't too loose, yet adding 10 lbs of torque to 140 tightened it up and the knock went away. The bearing was in great shape. Having the pair with 4 new nuts (only sold in packs of 4) i decided to replace them anyway and switched the other side. The left front was visibly worse with grease every where.

Thanks for the pointers.
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area
What year is your car? For the later year S197s the torque is 166 lbs-ft.

I think the replacement bolts and nuts from Ford for any year are now the fine-pitched thread versions requiring 166 lbs-ft.

I can't understand how an additional 10 lbs-ft would eliminate that play. Or conversely, how something already tightened to 130 lbs-ft would be able to move easily enough to produce the tick in your video.
 

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