well.hmmm….you guys know most of the PP mustangs run tons of ride height, but have you ever seen one go into a corner?...now this was a bit much and had to be corrected, but it demonstrates the extremes ..
this was back when we still ran splitter rods instead of the "good" splitter.

Mad Hatter said:

I like the way that spliter turned out! Will be trying to make one this week along the same lines...

Click to expand...

Do it! Take note of his update with the spats covering the front wheel well and apparently stabilizing it structurally.

Mount it as low as you dare... and especially if you're running the 500# now instead of the 550# fronts.

blacksheep-1 said:

well.hmmm….you guys know most of the PP mustangs run tons of ride height, but have you ever seen one go into a corner?...now this was a bit much and had to be corrected, but it demonstrates the extremes ..
this was back when we still ran splitter rods instead of the "good" splitter.

Click to expand...

Exactly what I mean! Gotta account for all dynamics and travel...

Grant 302 said:

Do it! Take note of his update with the spats covering the front wheel well and apparently stabilizing it structurally.

Mount it as low as you dare... and especially if you're running the 500# now instead of the 550# fronts.

Click to expand...

Back to wood work!! brings back childhood memories of boat building!

The tracks here do have have some "interesting bumps" so not sure how much lower we can go.... Was thinking of putting a PVC angle underneath the splitter to lower the bottom another 1.5cm... something quick to replace.

PS maybe a 2 or 3 cm pvc angle... shame we can only find in white....

Looks great so far! What wood are you using?

How about a wood spacer and longer screws? Make two and see how low you can go?

Its 8mm plywood and we made two right away to have a spare handy... Looking at how to add a base to lower it a little, but might have to wait till after the 15th. Its a effective 15cm out in front of the Boss valence and 10cm out the the edges. It goes back too just before the oil plug and is held on by 6 bolts and two robust tensioners. At least the plywood is considerably more rigid then a LS splitter my friend has.

blacksheep-1 said:

well.hmmm….you guys know most of the PP mustangs run tons of ride height, but have you ever seen one go into a corner?...now this was a bit much and had to be corrected, but it demonstrates the extremes ..
this was back when we still ran splitter rods instead of the "good" splitter.

Click to expand...

What kind of scrub were you guys observing after this thing came off the track?

Was it on the front, rear, or even across the entire splitter?

What was your thickness before, and then after the race? I’d be curious to know just how much you were scrubbing off.

Honestly, the car looks like it’s about where it needs to be. When I was racing, we’d shoot for a ride height of 1/4” off the surface (using bump stops to stop from hitting the track) and end up losing about 3/16” in thickness where we would make contact.

Daegoba said:

What kind of scrub were you guys observing after this thing came off the track?

Was it on the front, rear, or even across the entire splitter?

What was your thickness before, and then after the race? I’d be curious to know just how much you were scrubbing off.

Honestly, the car looks like it’s about where it needs to be. When I was racing, we’d shoot for a ride height of 1/4” off the surface (using bump stops to stop from hitting the track) and end up losing about 3/16” in thickness where we would make contact.

Click to expand...

Been way to long ago to remember, you gotta understand, AJ was making spring adjustments in as little as 15 pound increments, same with everything else tweak here, tweak there, his strongpoint besides being able to find the gas pedal, is being able to come in a ask for specific, precise adjustments, (or doing them himself) and you have to remember when you set a splitter or wing angle it has to be with the car at ride height, which is not necessarily where it ends up at the track, you have to take in consideration rake angle and dive.

I think after reading the above... will try our splitter out, as is. and then, see how much we can lower it.. With the new brakes and springs might have more dive then anticipated!

For Fathers day, I auto-gifted my self a wing so that will start to balance out the car. Hoping no one notices at home.......

blacksheep-1 said:

Been way to long ago to remember, you gotta understand, AJ was making spring adjustments in as little as 15 pound increments, same with everything else tweak here, tweak there, his strongpoint besides being able to find the gas pedal, is being able to come in a ask for specific, precise adjustments, (or doing them himself) and you have to remember when you set a splitter or wing angle it has to be with the car at ride height, which is not necessarily where it ends up at the track, you have to take in consideration rake angle and dive.

Click to expand...

Yeah, this is how we ended up with a 7.5° angle on our splitter. We were almost coil binding our car before the apex at the big tracks, so we had to find a balance with bump stops, spring rate, and splitter angle before we found something that sealed our front to the track without grinding half way through it.

We ruined a LOT of splitters that weekend.

The absolutely biggest mistake I see in the land of splitterdom is guys not sealing the splitter to the body, not only does this kill a bunch of downforce but it can cause the splitter to collapse, if it gets under the front tires under braking you are going for a ride..
Hence..gorilla tape was invented.

blacksheep-1 said:

The absolutely biggest mistake I see in the land of splitterdom is guys not sealing the splitter to the body, not only does this kill a bunch of downforce but it can cause the splitter to collapse, if it gets under the front tires under braking you are going for a ride..
Hence..gorilla tape was invented.

Click to expand...

When NASCAR debuted the splitters, they had something like 8 bolts attaching them
to the splitter bar? Anyways, we started seeing something crazy like 400+ lbs of DF “missing” during full speed wind tunnel testing. We knew something was up, because we didn’t see a change in our CD numbers... come to find out, at about 130 mph, the splitter was actually deforming and “sagging” between the bolts (there was only 11” or so between the bolts, and it was sucking down almost 3/16”!). We added 4 to go up to 12, and eventually 16 bolts with a silicone bead between the splitter and the body.

As time went on, they changed to a MFT board for material, and it helped, but they were still a one-time use kinda thing, and we never reduced the number of bolts.

Hmmm Was lucky to find some Gorilla tape here in Chile,. Just ordered two rolls and should have it on before race day!! If not then Silicone and duct tape!!

Good call! I`m ordering some right now.

Gorilla tape. Check
Ace hardware seal . Check
[emoji1]

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Clean up that tape!!

Believe it or not, that shiznit will buffer and hurt you if it’s not smoothed out!!

Your silocone job is PERFECT!!!!

Daegoba said:

Clean up that tape!!

Believe it or not, that shiznit will buffer and hurt you if it’s not smoothed out!!

Your silocone job is PERFECT!!!!

Click to expand...

Thanks
What you mean with clean up? Like donig it better
The idea was to " level " the step btw the lip and the pp1 splitter and also cover all the holes the pp1 has (if you zoom you can see them) .


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Daegoba said:

Clean up that tape!!

Believe it or not, that shiznit will buffer and hurt you if it’s not smoothed out!!

Your silocone job is PERFECT!!!!

Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother. It's better than the OEM gaps that I think are there. Considering the step between the two plastic parts, I'm not sure what you think will clean up there. I doubt it would cause buffeting. We're not going mach 1. ...or even approaching 200 mph.

And fly, that looks like a foam seal up front? I think you did a good job and that it should do fine as long as the tape sticks.

If I were to change anything, maybe the bolt heads to a pan head or carriage bolt heads if you can make them work. And I wouldn't even worry about those much. Might even be beneficial.

The idea of tape under was to "smooth and make the surface as much regular and flat as possible. "
Like u said with the speed we reach not really sure whatnit traslates to.
The foam is an ace hardware foam tube that i squeeze in and then the 16 bolts compressed in between.
Not really professional (it was grey and i paint it black but on the foam paint doesnt work well. ) I'll do better next.
This was more a try to
1. Seal it
2. Verify if i can change the AoA adding foam. And it does (about 4-5°)



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