I referenced it in my last update, but I've decided to postpone my entry in to NASATX TT for a while. I was just looking at too much of a wallet drain to get things going.

Instead, I'm going to give autocross a try. I"m going to run locally with the Houston SCCA and see if I can compete with the Camaro boys/girls in CAM-C. My driving style may need to be changed up a little, but the car is finally feeling good. I'm still going to do the occasional track day and possibly some TT events next year, but I'm not ready to invest the money needed to run TT for a full season.

As for the car, I've installed the Mike Maier, Inc rear ride height adjusters that allow 2.5" ID coilover springs to be installed in the factory location in the rear. I got a set used from a forum member. The rear spring rated is now 1300lb/in. I also installed the BMR BK055 rear lower control arm bearings and a stock GTPP rear sway bar.

I stiffened the rear coilovers a bit, but everything feels great on the street and limited cornering that I've done. I can now apply power on corner exit without feeling like the car is going to step out--and if I do get some oversteer, it is predictable and wery well controlled.

FIrst time to drive the car in anger may be next Sunday for an autocross/track day hybrid. I then have a track da on Sept 13th and then 2 autocrosses in October.

Mounted wheels/tires. Loving the RE71Rs


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Looking good. The RE-71R's are going to be my next tire.

Nothing major going on. I missed an autocross last weekend due to a back injury. I do have a track day coming up on Sunday.

I did upgrade a few things--I ditched my first Gen Solo and Garmin Virb Ultra 30 data/video setup for a Solo2 DL and smartycam HD setup. I'm excited to get try it out on Sunday.

I'm also considering a rear seat delete setup.

Went out to the track yesterday and ran some data for the first time with the new setup. I used the Solo2 DL and the SmartycamHD rev 2.1 for the first time. Data is great and the instant video analysis is priceless.

The whole day, I was getting inconsistent brake performance from pedal feel to stopping distance. Looking at data, the g forces are also all over the place when compared to brake pressure. I never got above 1.06 g and never hit ABS. Pads are G-Loc R16/R12. Looking at brake pressure, at a high of 919 psi, I only achieved a high of 0.86g brake force. Tires are 305 NT01s. The 1.06g reading came earlier in the lap with only about 600psi of pressure (if I remember correctly).

Something seems off

Anyway, here is the video.

NT-01s tend to drop off after 4-6 laps. This could be the issues.

TMSBOSS said:

NT-01s tend to drop off after 4-6 laps. This could be the issues.

Click to expand...

I've never heard of thus with NT01s.

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Prefer a more aggressive pad in front ( 18s ) and even lower heat index in the rear - number 8 pad. Silly question, also, when was the last time you changed ( or flushed ) your fluid?

Bill Pemberton said:

Prefer a more aggressive pad in front ( 18s ) and even lower mx heat in the rear with a number 8 pad. Silly question, also, when was the last time you changed ( or flushed ) your fluid?

Click to expand...

I swapped fluid in April. Running SRF. Gonna go with Motul 660 next I think. I'm gonna get the ABS system bled. I'm thinking I may have rear calipers that are sticking. Mybrear pads last a very long time.

At thus time I'm chasing my tail until I make some changes.

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How many days have you been on track since you swapped the fluid in April?

Doc B and I are wondering the same thing, how many events since April? When changing over from SRF would suggest a complete flush. After each event I clear out the fluid ( swap, minor flush, whatever one wants to call the procedure) as it has been a great habit for decades. You could have a couple of issues as you note, but keep in mind the super hard pedal at the beginning of a session really seldom lasts for the full 20-30 minutes on track in my experience. Yet a somewhat softer pedal feel does not mean things are not working correct. The rear pads usually a long time, I try going with a somewhat lower friction pad to hopefully engage the rears a bit more ( and they wear a bit quicker). This works for my braking style , but I seem to have always liked a bigger spread than the guys at G-Loc recommend for many of their clients.

DocB said:

How many days have you been on track since you swapped the fluid in April?

Click to expand...

Only 4 track days since fluid change with bleeding before each event.

I've been bleeding/swapping with a pressure bleeder (dry) but I'm gonna do a manual bleed next; or have the ABS system bled/flushed professionally.

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Good to know ....just a question we had to ask , but that sounds normal.

Took about 2 hours Saturday and removed stock tension links and lateral links and replaced with Steeda pieces to replace bushing with bearings and correct roll center geometry. I also installed a J&M bumpsteer kit.

I still have to align the car but right now it is sitting at 1/8 toe out but may pull in when I set my camber.



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please take a detailed photo of that tie rod end please, looks precariously close to bind (a common issue on the steeda bumpsteer kits that can lead to very catastrophic failure). Tapered spacers flanking the rod end will help avoid binding on the rod end housing, I'd ask them if they keep something like that around.

I had a set nearly break on me (caught it in time, had bent the rod ends significantly), and I've seen three sets break in the wild (and patched a couple of those cars up with parts from my spares bin).