Thanks @steveespo , it looks like that 802 I edited in later is the 4 piston design?

If you go to the knsbrakes.com website I think they have hawk as well. They clearly ask if its with brembos 6 pots etc.

Duane Black said:

Thanks @steveespo , it looks like that 802 I edited in later is the 4 piston design?

Click to expand...

Correct.

Coz said:

Other than the Cortex cambered solid rear axle (~$6K + brake options) none that I am aware of.

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Thank you for the feedback, unfortunately, this is the Cortex response

"Unfortunately the GT350 rear setup will not work. There are some specific packaging limitation the biggest one is the need for a real deep rotor hats. Usually they need to be around 50-60mm deep.

Buying beyond that the GT350 rear brakes would not be my top choice for rear brakes on a S197. They are too large and our testing on the Gt4 program has proven that any rotor larger than 328x28 has no benefits and is only adding weight. In fact, even the OEM s197 brakes when used in the S197 with the superior stiffness of he CV Cambered axle work very well on serious race cars. We do have a number of brake packages we offer that are listed on the CV axle webpage.

Best regards,

Filip"

Since I am only really interested in staying with OEM options, I will likely remain with the GT500 rears and look at different rotor options. Sadly, with such a short production run the options are pretty small (3-5 options from my research)

I didn't take pictures, but I got the caliper last night. A beast compared the two piston slider I have for sure!

I've read in this thread that the banjo bolt is known to break off in the caliper, the one that compes with the Stoptech stainless lines. I noticed the stoptech banjo bolt is a shorter thread bolt than the standard length. I checked how far a more standard banjo bolt will go in with and without the hose just to see how far frmo bottoming out I am, and it appears that the longer bolt that is more traditional bottoms out about 1/4 inch from hitting something solid in the caliper, with the copper washers and hose installed to put everything where it should be.

As long as it can push fluid into the caliper, how far it is into the caliper shouldn't matter, correct? It's just a little bit annoying long to thread in and out of the caliper?

cholmes1 said:

Thank you for the feedback, unfortunately, this is the Cortex response

"Unfortunately the GT350 rear setup will not work. There are some specific packaging limitation the biggest one is the need for a real deep rotor hats. Usually they need to be around 50-60mm deep.

Buying beyond that the GT350 rear brakes would not be my top choice for rear brakes on a S197. They are too large and our testing on the Gt4 program has proven that any rotor larger than 328x28 has no benefits and is only adding weight. In fact, even the OEM s197 brakes when used in the S197 with the superior stiffness of he CV Cambered axle work very well on serious race cars. We do have a number of brake packages we offer that are listed on the CV axle webpage.

Best regards,

Filip"

Since I am only really interested in staying with OEM options, I will likely remain with the GT500 rears and look at different rotor options. Sadly, with such a short production run the options are pretty small (3-5 options from my research)

Click to expand...

That's good to know, I had been considering that along with their floater axle (I have a spare set of GT350 rear calipers). I thought initially they'd offer decent pad life.

Duane Black said:

I didn't take pictures, but I got the caliper last night. A beast compared the two piston slider I have for sure!

I've read in this thread that the banjo bolt is known to break off in the caliper, the one that compes with the Stoptech stainless lines. I noticed the stoptech banjo bolt is a shorter thread bolt than the standard length. I checked how far a more standard banjo bolt will go in with and without the hose just to see how far frmo bottoming out I am, and it appears that the longer bolt that is more traditional bottoms out about 1/4 inch from hitting something solid in the caliper, with the copper washers and hose installed to put everything where it should be.

As long as it can push fluid into the caliper, how far it is into the caliper shouldn't matter, correct? It's just a little bit annoying long to thread in and out of the caliper?

Click to expand...

As long as there's some clearance at the bottom, it should be fine.

captdistraction said:

That's good to know, I had been considering that along with their floater axle (I have a spare set of GT350 rear calipers). I thought initially they'd offer decent pad life.

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Spoke with James at FTB and he said if you have the Cortex floater axle they can get the GT350 rears to fit and operate. Too rich for my blood and needs, but thought I would pass it along

now that's something to think about.

k98dave said:

Will these clear both stock Boss and 18" GT500 wheels?

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exactly my thoughts

I may have a solution for guys who only need front lines to do this S550 upgrade and buy the StopTech 950.61003. The solution being a different Banjo bolt than that's provided (which can easily break). Use a Dorman 13940 available at most autoparts stores. I'm not usually a fan of Dorman, but this piece looked the part and I tested it to 30ft.lbs in the caliper to make sure its up to the challenge and no problems.

You can't re-use the OEM S550 banjo bolt because it's too long when used with the slimmer StopTech hose fitting end. And the provided one breaks. So this Dorman part is a little longer, but when tested alone in the caliper it threads until there is 7.4mm gap between the caliper and bolt. Which means, with the 8.4mm hose end + washers for like 9.5mm there's plenty of space being taken up before it would bottom out. And, as I said I torque tested it in the caliper no bottoming out.

Washers fit the same. Banjo exit hole lines up with the middle ST fitting end.
As an added bonus, the Dorman part fits much more snugly in the thread engagement due to the ST banjo bolt thread diameter being undersized by .2mm or so.

Cheap $4-6 solution.
I'll edit this if any issue arise from use.

New member ( Welcome ) and this posting might turn out to be a big benefit for many. Thanks for the contribution.

As an update, installed with the Dorman 13940 banjo bolts with the StopTech lines. I torqued them 9-10ft.lsb over at 38ft.lbs for science - just so i don't recommend something that's going to break 10% over. Held up great, holding pressure well. The fittings and hardware in the StopTech kit really leave a lot to be desired, they definitely warrant their low price point.

On an unrelated note, the caliper hardware kit and 1mm titanium shims from Optimum Performance are WAY nice. Made a bigger difference than I expected after taking out the old rusty hardware that only had 11k miles on them.

Can someone recommend where I can get 5mm spacers?

here are some 8's I'd recommend if you can work with the extra 3mm:

5mm (actually 4.7mm)

6mm

Coz said:

5mm (actually 4.7mm)

Vorshlag 5mm (3/16") thick Wheel Spacers, 5x4.5 bolt pattern (pair)

Introduction Vorshlag 5mm (3/16") thick, 5x4.5 bolt pattern, Aluminum Flat Wheel Spacer Key Features 3/16" thick (5mm for you metric types) CNC machined from billet aluminum Made to fit the small Ford (5x4.5") bolt patterns 70.5 mm hub bore precisely fits 2005-2014 Mustang Vorshlag tested and...

vorshlag-store.com

6mm

Vorshlag 1/4" (6mm) Wheel Spacers, 5x4.5 bolt pattern (pair)

Introduction Vorshlag 1/4" thick, 5x4.5 bolt pattern, Aluminum Flat Wheel Spacer Key Features 1/4" Thick (6mm for you metric types) CNC machined from billet aluminum, made in the USA Made to fit the small Ford (5x4.5" - 5x114.3mm) bolt patterns 78mm hub bore fits most cars; this is not a...

vorshlag-store.com

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Thanks Coz! Vorshlag is saying I must use longer wheel studs with a 5mm spacer. Would you agree for my Boss 302?

Yes! but I think more to the point,,,, do not use the stock studs at the track.

Whowasat said:

Vorshlag is saying I must use longer wheel studs with a 5mm spacer.

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Correct. You want to make sure you have enough thread engagement with the lug nuts.

Mad Hatter said:

Yes! but I think more to the point,,,, do not use the stock studs at the track

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Mad Hatter is correct. Especially if you are running wider & stickier tires.

On your S197, as long as you can get 10 full turns of engagement you are in the clear. At a minimum we want to see a full diameter of engagement on studs. The S197 studs are 1/2"-20 thread, so to achieve a 1/2" of engagement requires 10 full turns.

For the S550 with it's M14-1.5 threaded studs, you will want 9.5 full turns.