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'13/14 brake ducting - intake piece only

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Got mine today. When I saw the boxes I thought for sure they sent the wrong parts, but no--these things are shallow!

Anyone work with them yet? Not alot of room to work with inside the structure. I guess I'll take a dremel and cut off the cone and just epoxy some PVC to it. Might even make the hole bigger even though it would sacrifice the OEM look.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Mine also arrived today - haven't even opened the boxes yet. Not quite sure yet what I'm going to use for extending the inlet enough to attach the ducting. Haven't seen anything that has struck me as perfect in my initial online searching. Too bad they don't include the extra little piece that seems to come in the full kit from Ford.
 
Fingers crossed! My goal was to get the most air in without sacrificing OE look.

Took the bezels over the the local Home Depot. Started in plumbing but didn't find anything that would work so I moved over to HVAC and found these 4'' to 3" reducers. The key to them is that you can bend the 4" end into an oval that fits nicely over the bezel cone and drops into the space between the cone and the top and bottom edges of the frame. Also has a bit of an angle to it so I aimed the angle in the same direction as the bezel was so hopefully interference behind the duct will be minimized.

Cut off the entire cone. Then epoxied the duct over the hole and voila!


th_IMG_20130917_195955_880_zps8d3146fd.jpg

th_IMG_20130917_200028_695_zps7ae8443f.jpg


th_IMG_20130917_200033_201_zpsf0cee837.jpg

Just did one side and I'll test fit it before I destroy more materials.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Pretty clever! I like that setup. I got my backing plates installed tonight and the ducting routed. Also popped out the OEM bezels. Got a little hung up trying to think of how to connect the ducts to the new bezels! Should be the easy part... Might go pick up those same parts tomorrow as it looks like a reasonable solution. If I get really smart over the winter I am going to try to bribe my friend who works in our rapid prototype lab to make some adapters for the bezels...

Thanks for posting your idea tho it may save me a bunch of time.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Bought some HVAC ducting and epoxied it to the back of the bezels. I went a slightly different route - got two 3" diameter metal duct pieces about 3" long each and bent those into an oval shape and bonded that. Seemed to line up a little better. Of course the real question is will it hold on tight enough when I attach the ducting later tonight...

I'll snap a bunch of pictures this evening when I work the rest of the install.
 
I picked the 4" because it maximizes the oval hole in the bezel. It was recommended to me that if I can get 4" system it would be ideal, but since backing plates come in 3, we're stuck. So I didn't want the most restriction at the front end. The oval is more like 3.5 so 4 takes the best advantage. See no reason it shouldn't hold. The tubing is being supported by the zip ties.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
And installation is complete. The bonded HVAC 3" diameter sections seem very secure (for now at least) and everything went back together smoothly once I finished connecting the ducting to the bezels. Some pictures now:

Bezels
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-4-.jpg
-pieced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo.jpg
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-1-.jpg
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-2-.jpg
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-3-.jpg

Installed front view
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-7-.jpg

Passenger side routing
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-5-.jpg
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-6-.jpg
ced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-11-.jpg

Drivers side routing
ced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-10-.jpg
ced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-12-.jpg
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-8-.jpg
eced-together-brake-cooling-13-14-mustang-photo-9-.jpg
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
The way I routed on the passenger side, no I didn't have to move the washer fluid container. But I used a total of about 8 1/2 feet of ducting instead of the 6' or so the ford racing kit gives. Probably not the most efficient routing in terms of airflow as there is a tight coner so def itself some flow restriction but I don't expect it will be too bad

Ideally I should monitor left vs right brake rotor temps after a couple sessions to make sure the duct losses I am getting with the bends in the passenger side routing aren't affecting cooling capabilities too much
 
Just got done myself. Had to flip the horn and cut off the front mounting ear of the washer resevoir and of course trim the bottom inside corner of each fender liner. Took a more direct route with the tubing so there is some interference, even with stock 255s. Should only be a problem in the tightest of turn arounds. Maybe next year I'll reroute the long way.

TOP TIP: To slip the tubing over the flanges, remove the string in addition to the wire and use very soapy water on the inside lip. Worked like a charm.

Tomorrow I install the pads and change out the fluid and ready to go!
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Agreed on the string have to remove part of it to slip the ducting over the flanges.

I was thinking about the 2" bezel inlet as a flow restriction to the 3 inch ducting... I agree that it will limit the total air inflow, but i was thinking about how the air will slow down as it exits the bezel opening and enters the ducting. If my recollection of aerodynamics is right, shouldn't the pressure of the air increase as the velocity decreases? Would that help push the air thru the ducting with less duct losses since its lower velocity and higher pressure? Not saying a 2" inlet is better than 3" in terms of supplying the total quantity of air needed to properly cool the rotors.... Although I haven't seen data to quantify how much airflown is really needed...

Probably over thinking this a tad, but the comment about restricted inlet opening got me thinking
 
great info in this thread. I'm interested in how the 302 s/r scoop mounts. Much larger and I'm sure will function great. My local track is hell on brakes and I want to part together a nice setup before I take my boss out next year.
 

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