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15 GT Oil/Transmission Cooling

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boardkat

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Apologies for starting a new thread, but all the existing ones I found seem to be S197-specific.
Wondering if anyone has rolled their own oil and/or transmission cooling on a 15+ GT w/ MT-82? My engine blew up (again), so I figure I'll finally do proper oil and transmission cooling while everything is out, given my desire to start doing Optima and TT-type events.

Looking primarily for feedback on the best locations to use/tap the transmission case for inlet/outlet and temp sensor bungs. Also interested to hear about the effectiveness of the various cooling options that Setrab offers - was thinking of going with the 172 for oil cooling (seems to be what the OTS Cooltech option uses), but haven't yet decided what would work best for the transmission - maybe another 172 w/ a Tilton pump? That's what I'm using currently for my FTBR-based diff cooling setup, but wasn't sure if it could provide enough pressure for a bigger cooler?

Caveat to all of this is the space I have available - I'm running a massive triple-pass 970cu inch heat exchanger for my supercharger - but I did remove the AC condenser, so there's room between the exchanger and the radiator. I do wonder about having three layers of cooling jammed in there though, and the decreased efficiency that results (but hoping the radiator being furthest back, but without the load of needing to cool the oil, will negate the poor location).

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Anyway, not looking to reinvent the wheel, if there are threads/posts here that would be helpful, please point me in the right direction!
 

boardkat

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Wolvee

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Smaller Setrab coolers in place of the Fog lights and venting the inner fender liners like the GT350 seems like the only logical place I can think of.

I'm not sure there's an actual difference between the base bumpers and the GT's but I know they do have inserts but no Foglights.
 

boardkat

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Can't run fender liners due to 335/13 setup up front, and wouldn't wanna put the coolers there to get pelted by rocks from the sticky tires as a result (and there'd be interference from the brake ducts and -20 AN heat exchanger piping and water pump). I'm pretty confident I have enough space to shoehorn the additional coolers in, and will be fencing it all in to maximize airflow.
 

steveespo

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I recently installed a trans cooler setup for my 2018 car. 2012-Boss and I chose the left front fendewell, in front of the outside edge of the lower grille mouth. I have the Bullit lower grille so we drilled the honeycombs in front of the Setrab 1 series matrix with fanpack. I used a Setrab gear gerotor type pump mounted as seen and plumbed with -6AM hoses from Aeroquip. The trans connections are M16 to -6 banjo fittings as the are low profile and easily swing aimed to any angle. The plumbing goes output from drain plug, through the cooler, through inline filter, through the pump and back in the trans using the fill port. There is an old rumor that an MT 82 can’t accept fluid while in gear, that is false so don’t worry. I am using SPEK temp gauge with multiple temp warning levels to switch the pump and fan on through a standard Bosch 4 pin 30amp relay with 14ga stranded primary power and ground wiring. For Board cat, you could look at mounting the matrix and pump in the recess under the passenger seat floor pan. With a fan pack direct airflow is not a must. I had differential cooling in that location on my S197 21 car.
Steve

9b933a155c6f4d5d513f102cad8b06cb.jpg


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I'm going to ask a stupid question, I assume you're running the stock fuel tank(s) because that's where we mount the diff and trans coolers. They contain the cooler, fan and the pump and tuck right in there.
 

boardkat

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thanks steve for the details! i'll look into doing something similar once i've got my car back in hand for placement.

.. and yes, stock saddlebags since this still gets driven on the street, so no space to fit anything there (my diff cooler/pump are mounted by the EVAP canister)
 

steveespo

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I'm going to ask a stupid question, I assume you're running the stock fuel tank(s) because that's where we mount the diff and trans coolers. They contain the cooler, fan and the pump and tuck right in there.

Yes Rob my car is still street registered with original tanks too, for now.


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boardkat

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also, nice choice on filter! i've been buying the FL820 by the case since i bought my '13 GT new, and continued it when i got my 15. surprisingly, i've yet to run into another coyote-based competitor that does the same thing. caught the outcome of my recent ring carnage, limiting the collateral damage, so it's got that going for it too, which is nice:

upload_2019-6-28_15-39-47.png
 

steveespo

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also, nice choice on filter! i've been buying the FL820 by the case since i bought my '13 GT new, and continued it when i got my 15. surprisingly, i've yet to run into another coyote-based competitor that does the same thing. caught the outcome of my recent ring carnage, limiting the collateral damage, so it's got that going for it too, which is nice:

View attachment 8531

Thanks, same place I had it in my 2016 which I had a ginormous front end shunt in at Summit Point and the setup including hoses survived scarred but intact. In fact that is the same remote oil filter block, you can see a silver nick on the top from the accident. We were going to put the trans cooler on the right side but the washer bottle takes up so much space that it would have been tough to fit it all behind the fender liners. I keep the washer bottle because Anderson Composites made provisions in their well made hood to accept the factory squirters.


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boardkat

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i was already considering the passenger side, because (although i've got an AC hood also with similar provisions) i recently removed my bottle since the pump inlet keeps breaking for some reason (i was on my 3rd one) - i'm guessing debris getting thrown in there (no fender liners) - which is why i'm still hesitant to put the cooler there.
 

JDee

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boardkat

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@steveespo I forgot to ask:

1.) Did you keep the OEM oil-to-water cooler in place (can't tell from the pic you posted)?
2.) If so, did you remote mount the filter for accessibility, or was there not enough room to put a thermostatic sandwich plate onto the OEM cooler?
3.) If the latter, did you plumb this with something like an Improved Racing oil filter takeoff plate combined with the remote mount pictured? I was thinking of relocating my alternator and doing this instead:
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-c...pter-for-gen-ford-50-coyote-engine-p-912.html
... since I keep filling my 16oz catch can in competition and making smoke screens, so thought it would be an ideal solution to drain back the oil, rather than drilling and welding on an AN fitting to my FP350S oil pan
4.) Did you keep OEM cooling on for extra insurance, so that you could use a smaller Setrab cooler?
5.) With a 172, do you see any reason for me to keep OEM cooling?
6.) Will a 172 be sufficient, or should I consider a 948? Engine is back in and making 750whp, so I want to make sure my cooling is up to the task when I hit fast tracks like Big Willow, COTA, Thunderhill, The Ridge and LVMS next season.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Just throwing this out there as a possibility. Mishimoto makes a larger direct fit trans cooler for the 15-17 6R80 cars that fits in the stock location (between the AC condenser and radiator) Since you removed your AC condenser you should have more than enough room. And it would be shielded from debris.

https://www.mishimoto.com/ford-mustang-transmission-cooler-2015.html

Of course, you'd have to fabricate some custom fittings to connect to it.
 

boardkat

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Just throwing this out there as a possibility. Mishimoto makes a larger direct fit trans cooler for the 15-17 6R80 cars that fits in the stock location (between the AC condenser and radiator) Since you removed your AC condenser you should have more than enough room. And it would be shielded from debris.

https://www.mishimoto.com/ford-mustang-transmission-cooler-2015.html

Of course, you'd have to fabricate some custom fittings to connect to it.
I have an MT-82, not a 6R80, so I'd rather just piece together a better Setrab setup, since I'll need a pump too (and I'm probably going to put the engine oil cooler where the tranny cooler was intended to be mounted)
 

steveespo

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@steveespo I forgot to ask:

1.) Did you keep the OEM oil-to-water cooler in place (can't tell from the pic you posted)? Yes
2.) If so, did you remote mount the filter for accessibility, or was there not enough room to put a thermostatic sandwich plate onto the OEM cooler? YES
3.) If the latter, did you plumb this with something like an Improved Racing oil filter takeoff plate combined with the remote mount pictured? I was thinking of relocating my alternator and doing this instead:
Used this: http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-c...ake-off-plate-m22x15-filter-thread-p-875.html
... since I keep filling my 16oz catch can in competition and making smoke screens, so thought it would be an ideal solution to drain back the oil, rather than drilling and welding on an AN fitting to my FP350S oil pan
4.) Did you keep OEM cooling on for extra insurance, so that you could use a smaller Setrab cooler? I ran a Setrab 934, will probably increase to 948 or 960
5.) With a 172, do you see any reason for me to keep OEM cooling? Yes
6.) Will a 172 be sufficient, or should I consider a 948? Engine is back in and making 750whp, so I want to make sure my cooling is up to the task when I hit fast tracks like Big Willow, COTA, Thunderhill, The Ridge and LVMS next season. No go with the largest cooler matrix you can fit, 948 or 960 Setrab or equivalent.
Steve


Thanks for the help!
 

boardkat

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Perfect. At this point, thinking a 660/610 combo for oil/tranny cooling mounted in the upper grill to an Improved Racing thermostatic filter mount into a Canton a remote adapter w/ drain back. Mounting and routing everything is going to be a challenge with the catch can and h/e pump w/ -20 hose and fittings taking up a lot of room in the engine bay and wheel well but I’ve got time to figure it out. Thanks for the help!
 

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