The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

18" vs 19" Wheels, Which is Right For You?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Apex Wheels

Race Proven, Street Approved
Supporting Vendor
676
1,062
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Bay Area, CA
29206428778_8cc735e790_b.jpg

Should I run 18” or 19” wheels? What works best for my car?

The APEX staff gets asked this question daily, and our answer is always the same: our recommendation fully depends on the modifications you currently have or plan to get, how you intend to use the car, as well what you are looking to achieve by installing aftermarket wheels. I will start out this article with the following disclaimer. Every vehicle is unique, and if you have any lingering questions when you’re done reading, feel free to reach out to one of our Product Experts for more guidance.

Around the start of this decade, you wouldn’t even be reading an article like this. 18” wheels (and 17” for many) had been the go-to without question. All of the major tire manufacturers had an endless supply of “the right” sizes for your car, and 18” wheels fit over even the largest brake kits fitted to cars rolling off the assembly line. 19” tires were also hard to come by, and the sizes you did find were outrageously expensive. However, in the last 4-5 years the market has seen a dramatic shift. The Pony Car wars are bigger and better now than they ever were in the 1960s. Mustangs are coming from the factory with brake rotors exceeding the diameter of some factory wheels produced back in the day. Change happens and progress is expected and welcomed. The situation we now face today is actually a good problem to have. There is currently a vast assortment of tire options available in both 18” and 19” sizes. In most cases, this means there is no wrong choice.

When deciding on what size wheel to run, we believe you should first determine what tire you would like to use and how you will use it.

(1) Do you want a tire to cruise on the street comfortably but also rip up the mountains on the weekends?

(2) What about a tire for heavy track use that sees little to no street use?

(3) Or how about a tire that can tear up the track on Sunday, and drive you to work on Monday?

This is a question you must answer for yourself.

If you fall under the first category, you’re in luck! You cannot go wrong with either 18s or 19s as there is an abundance of tires available for this use. 18x9.5”, 18x10”, and 19x10” all have lots of tire options in the 275/40-18 to 285/35-19 range which works great on the street. Be careful of going with a staggered setup that has 11” rear tires, as it is difficult to find tires that match the desired front sizes that are both wide enough and tall enough. A couple of our favorites in this segment are the Michelin Pilot 4S, Continental Extremecontact Sport, and Falken FK510.

41662074552_6cb9a33f0b_b.jpg

For someone who finds themselves in the second category, the 18” catalog has a lot more suitable offerings. Many race-oriented tires come in 18” sizes, and while there are some in 19”, the selection has fewer options, and they tend to be more expensive. Continental and Pirelli offer a lot of slicks, and Hoosier makes their renowned R7 and A7 in plenty of 18” sizes. People who are in this category are also likely to care a lot more about weight than the other two would. 18” wheels will always be lighter than their 19” counterparts. 18” wheels and tires are also more affordable than their 19” counterparts, which helps a lot with yearly consumable costs.

43053067701_3d131c035c_b.jpg

The third category of tires is one that has evolved a lot in the last few years, and this is where the 200 TW tires fall. Today’s top tier 200TW tires are the Bridgestone RE71R and BFG Rival S 1.5. They are wicked fast tires that also have decent street manners, making them an excellent choice for someone who doesn’t want to mess around with multiple sets of wheels/tires but still wants to get the most performance out of their car. For these people, a 19” tire has a much better selection available for modern day Mustangs. 275/35-19, 285/35-19, and 305/30-19 have essentially every major tire you could ask for. The go-to wheel size in this scenario would be 19x10” ET40 square or 19x11” ET52 square. You could also run a 10”/11” stagger, however Mustangs prefer square setups for more balanced handling and less understeer.

42038912384_80f9f4f465_b.jpg

Something to keep in mind, the 2011-2017 Mustang GT’s equipped with a manual transmission and 3.73 rear gears rely on a taller rear tire to help with their aggressive ratio from the factory. Often times I see many people running 25-26” tires on these particular cars, and they’re complaining about overheating or never seeming to be in the correct gear. Unfortunately, there is no way around this. If you love your tire and refuse to change it, the best way to fix the problem is to change the rear gears out for 3.31 or 3.55.

Now, if you’re the kind of person who doesn’t mind the tire selections offered for a given wheel size and are open to making anything work, yet are still unsure as to what to get, please continue reading.

“I prefer 19” wheels because it fills out the wheel well better”

This is another statement we often hear. While visually this could be true with certain wheel designs, wheel diameter does not dictate overall tire height, and the tire is what will actually “fill out the wheel well”, as they say. Let’s take our EC-7 18x11” ET52 fitted with a 305/35-18 Nitto NT-01 for example and compare it to the EC-7 19x11” ET52 with a 305/30-19 NT-01. The 305/35-18 is listed at 26.42” in diameter, while the 305/30-19 is listed at 26.26” in diameter. In this scenario, the corresponding 18” tire is actually larger and will thus occupy more room in the wheel well. Why did I choose these particular tires? For starters, they are both very common track setups that perform exceptionally well. They also have the same section width at 12.32” so they are incredibly similar tires in overall dimensions.

28208790687_9fbd1fb984_b.jpg

“Do lighter wheels make my car faster?”

This is a very subjective topic, and certain magazines have performed “tests” with varying results. Anytime you can reduce weight from a vehicle it is a good thing. Less weight means quicker acceleration, shorter braking distances, and more responsive handling. Will you notice a reduction in lap times from lighter wheels? It is hard to say exactly, as often times lighter wheels are combined with wider and stickier tires. Anyone that has experienced lightweight wheels however, can tell you that it is a noticeable difference in feel with those attributes we listed earlier. Since rotating mass is roughly 3 times harder to accelerate than sprung mass, dropping 5 pounds per corner from lighter wheels would be equivalent to removing 60 pounds from the interior of your vehicle. Now that is noticeable!

34031055850_d43782ef88_b.jpg

Money meets the road

Everyone has a budget, it’s part of life. Tires are a consumable and an expensive one at that. Our 18x11” EC-7 has an MSRP of $379 while the 19x11” EC-7 has an MSRP of $444. A 305/35-18 NT-01 costs $337 on Discount Tire Direct while a 305/30-19 NT-01 costs $428 on the same site. What does this mean over the course of a season? Assuming the average track enthusiast goes through two sets of tires, and including the initial cost of purchasing wheels, the breakdown can be seen below.

(4) 18x11” ET52 EC-7 at $379 ea = $1516
(8) 305/35-18 Nitto NT-01 at $337 ea = $2696
Total (not including taxes, shipping, mounting, etc) = $4212

(4) 19x11” ET52 EC-7 at $444 ea = $1776
(8) 305/30-19 Nitto NT-01 at $428 ea = $3424
Total (not including taxes, shipping, mounting, etc) = $5200

While all prices are subject to change, there is a significant price difference across the span of the year. These savings can be applied to other consumables such as brakes or fuel expenses.

With all the different options out there, it can be overwhelming at times when trying to choose a wheel and tire package for your ride. Hopefully this article reduces some of the stress involved and makes the decision much simpler. As always, don’t hesitate to reach out to us via PM, phone, or email!
 
I was actually looking at this recently. I was having trouble finding a good option for the stock PP wheels (19x9 & 19x9.5). The biggest question i have is will 18's fit over the 6 piston brembo's. I feel like this is an option. If so...I may start trying to find someone to trade or sell to so I can get some 18's.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,551
5,283
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Johnny

Welcome to the site!!

Nice looking ride.

Apex has a fitment guide on their site. They are a sponsor here mostly because they make a great product. I have two sets of the wheels.

Take a look at their fitment guide. I believe their 18' will fit your car. They also offer options for a square set up on most cars.

Good luck with your search.
 
What a fantastic write up.

the 18” vs 19” question is one of heavy debate at my job, as we ALL have Mustangs, and are always nerding about what is out there, and what would work best for our own set-ups.

My car is basically stock, outside of some soft suspension work. I like mountain roads on the weekends, but also daily my car to work. 19’s for me, although the debate is still open on square vs staggered. The Foxbody guy loves the 18’s because he is turbo’d, runs serious drag tires, and only drives his car on the street every now and then. He wants his car to turn as well, but runs a staggered setup without question. Wether the setups we have are “right” or not totally depends on what we’re doing at any given point.

Thanks for this, Apex. It’s nice to have someone so engaged that really seems to be passionate about what we all are doing.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,496
8,493
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Great write up Apex ( I have 2 sets now and have owned 4 total over the past 3 years ), and you hit my two main focus items, cost and weight.

Lower cost and lower weight with the 18s ( this size rim and tire gives you less unsprung poundage). Currently there are still more choices with 18s ( tires ) and love the square 18x11 Apex rim set-up I have on my Boss. Square makes it great to rotate all around the car , depending on wear.
 
Last edited:

Apex Wheels

Race Proven, Street Approved
Supporting Vendor
676
1,062
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Bay Area, CA
I was actually looking at this recently. I was having trouble finding a good option for the stock PP wheels (19x9 & 19x9.5). The biggest question i have is will 18's fit over the 6 piston brembo's. I feel like this is an option. If so...I may start trying to find someone to trade or sell to so I can get some 18's.

Hey Johnny! Our 18" EC-7 wheels do clear the Performance Pack 6 piston Brembos without issue.

Thanks for the kind words everyone, I really do get asked this question so often it just made sense to write about it :)

- Cory
 
“ You could also run a 10”/11” stagger, however Mustangs prefer square setups for more balanced handling and less understeer.“

Can you elaborate on this a little more? Do we have data to back this up, or is it just a general consensus/feedback type of thing?
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
712
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
“ You could also run a 10”/11” stagger, however Mustangs prefer square setups for more balanced handling and less understeer.“

Can you elaborate on this a little more? Do we have data to back this up, or is it just a general consensus/feedback type of thing?
I'll quote something that was posted to an engineering forum some years ago by a suspension engineer employed at the OE level. Take them as approximations only, that are at least pointing you in the right direction. All I can take credit for was being smart enough to copy his words to my Word file. Edited down to the important parts.

It says, ultimate grip is proportional to tire width ^0.15, which sounds a bit low to me. So going from a 200 to a 300 mm width tire gives you about 6% more latacc. But you can soften the compound a bit and get some more.

The cornering stiffness also increases. This is a good thing for a race car as it means you'll get less cornering drag. CS is proportional to tire width^.3, that is you'll get 12% more lateral force for a given slip angle, going from a 200 to a 300. Again compound has an effect.
Understeer-oversteer handling balance is really a slip angle thing.

I suspect that the physical mechanism involves the amount of mechanical 'keying' between the tread rubber as it deforms over and around the pavement roughness. This is not a linear phenomenon; doubling the unit contact patch pressure does not double the amount of 'keying', and there's also the matter of actual unit contact patch pressures (lb/square inch) varying considerably within each contact patch.

About that last item - contact pressures cannot be estimated by dividing corner weight by inflation pressure, at least not accurately enough to be of much use. What you may have learned in high school physics class did not account for the bodies in contact with each other being deformable, being strictly about the behavior of rigid bodies. Tire carcass stiffnesses matter, and tread void ratio would likely make the surface plot pictured below [of a tire with no tread] deviate even further from uniform CP pressure.

full.jpg


Norm
 
Last edited:
6,394
8,275
Outstanding article, it covers all the bases and I couldn't agree more. I got a laugh out of the "earlier" wheel sizes. We used to run 15X8 Corvette wheels at the races because they were "huge".
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,496
8,493
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Hmmm..............kinda understand, now, why those 14 inch tires didn't last very long on my mom's 375HP 440 Chrysler 300. She always thought it was my young leadfootitis , but sounds to me like the tires and rims did not suffice to give the car a proper footprint?
 
Last edited:
6,394
8,275
Hmmm..............kinda understand, now, why those 14 inch tires didn't last very long on my mom's 375HP 440 Chrysler 300. She always thought it was my young leadfootitis , but sounds to me like the tires and rims did not suffice to give the car a proper footprint?

Or my parent's Olds Vista Cruiser wagon that I bracket raced
 
I'll quote something that was posted to an engineering forum some years ago by a suspension engineer employed at the OE level. Take them as approximations only, that are at least pointing you in the right direction. All I can take credit for was being smart enough to copy his words to my Word file. Edited down to the important parts.




Understeer-oversteer handling balance is really a slip angle thing.

I suspect that the physical mechanism involves the amount of mechanical 'keying' between the tread rubber as it deforms over and around the pavement roughness. This is not a linear phenomenon; doubling the unit contact patch pressure does not double the amount of 'keying', and there's also the matter of actual unit contact patch pressures (lb/square inch) varying considerably within each contact patch.

About that last item - contact pressures cannot be estimated by dividing corner weight by inflation pressure, at least not accurately enough to be of much use. What you may have learned in high school physics class did not account for the bodies in contact with each other being deformable, being strictly about the behavior of rigid bodies. Tire carcass stiffnesses matter, and tread void ratio would likely make the surface plot pictured below [of a tire with no tread] deviate even further from uniform CP pressure.

full.jpg


Norm
Damn Norm,

I’ve been googlin’ all this, and every time-on every message board-you have the best answer. You’re awesome.
 
I gotta say I agree with Norm, too. Good post!

I'd add that while you CAN get balanced handling out of a staggered tire setup, it will be more of a compromise than a square one. Why? The front of the car is heavier. There are a lot of things you can do to dial out understeer. You just need more OF them with fat rear tires. Bigger rear stabilizer bar, stiffer rear springs, more rear negative camber - and THAT is a compromise! Tweaking the axle housing for more negative camber has some negative consequences as does dialing in more on an S550 IRS. But ultimately that front axle weight is going to drive the limits of traction because of the weight. Physics, not a suggestion, it is the LAW. ;)

And then there is the ability to rotate tires for track cars that mostly turn right - most road race courses run clockwise - so they wear out the left tires before the rights. You can dismount and swap directional tires side to side but you can't rotate front to back. Struts wear tires differently than a solid axle and front to back rotation helps a lot.
 

Apex Wheels

Race Proven, Street Approved
Supporting Vendor
676
1,062
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Bay Area, CA
We strongly believe in education here, knowledge is power as some would say :)

Norm pretty much knocked it out of the park with his response about square vs stagger. To help with a little personal experience of my own, this past year I ran 275 and 305 square setups at the same track on the same day. I always had faster lap times with the 305 square setup.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top