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FoxBody 1987 GT Track Car Rebuild Build Thread Profile - Fox Body Mustangs

36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
One question for you guys. The original M/C and booster needed to be replaced due to a MC leaking. I replaced the booster with a "Cobra R" booster from Rock Auto after some research. I'm still researching what MC to use with my 6 piston 14" front brakes and Cobra rear brakes.

Do any of you have any advice on this?

Thank you, Justin
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36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
Been slowly progressing while trying to reuse as much as possible, but some things should be upgraded to make life easier. Since I will be getting rid of the old Ford starter solenoid to clean the wiring up, a SN95 starter was needed.

Second is some sort of sound/heat shield for the floor/firewall. The last car I built I wished I would have done this. After riding in a friend car before and after, it's worth the little extra weight. And while I was doing that, I cleaned up all of the brackets and pedal box assembly for some paint. It's amazing how much smoother it moves with all of the pivot points cleaned and lubed. Sometimes it's the small details that keep me happy.
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43
93
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Los Angeles
If you are going to track the car heavily I would convert it to manual brakes, either the maximum motorsports kit or one of the wilwood pedal setups so you can adjust the master cylinder sizes to what you like. Much better than having a booster in the system for brake modulation.

Don
 
36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
If you are going to track the car heavily I would convert it to manual brakes, either the maximum motorsports kit or one of the wilwood pedal setups so you can adjust the master cylinder sizes to what you like. Much better than having a booster in the system for brake modulation.

Don
Thank you for your reply. I'm hoping to do between 5-6 track days a year, but other than that, the car will see some street miles. So I'm hoping to stay with the factory pedal setup and power brakes to make it easier for my wife to drive. Personally for myself, I would love to put a manual setup in the car.

I'm thinking maybe go with the matching Cobra M/C. Since the car originally had the factory booster and master, this should be somewhat of an upgrade.
 
36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
While it didn't have the factory alternator in it, (it was much larger than stock) it was still old and the bearings were noisy. In went the normal 3G swap. The only concern is with the mounting, I might want to source a factory mounting bracket and tensioner. I just don't feel comfortable leaving all of the side forces on one bolt even though it has been this way for over 20 years. I just don't want a track side repair. I'll start it this way and see what I find.
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36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
Since the Holley TX is still backordered, I decided to put the old distributer and Megasquirt back it. I really don't have any experience with it, but I'm never too old to learn. From what I was told, I have a good unit and it ran great pulling it off of the trailer. Lets all learn together!

Also, the steering column is in, so the wheels actually turn again with the steering wheel.
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36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
After I got the Power steering cooler plumbed, it was time to drop the radiator back in. Unfortunately, there were issues. After the radiator install, I did a pressure test and found a leak in the radiator. Didn't leak when I pulled it in, but I didn't run it long.

I was never happy with the fit of the radiator, but used it since it came with the car. Plus the MKVIII fan fit was bad, I decided to order a new radiator, fans, coolant overflow tank and hardware. Everything will be here on Friday.

And guys, that's where I sit now. Glad I finally got caught up. This is where the questions begin.

Thanks again guys, Justin
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36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
After researching radiators, cooling fans and overflow tanks, I decided on the SVE package from LMR. I could have fixed the radiator that was in the car, but it was over 20 yrs old and I wasn't happy with the cooling fan and the overflow tank. All 3 fit, but just wasn't right.

The LMR kit seemed to fit all of my needs, but I knew there was going to be some issues. There always is with these aftermarket parts.

The radiator was a direct drop in, core was the same thickness compared to what I pulled out. I also ordered new rubbers and upper radiator mounts. The upper mounts were a touch long on the engine side, that caused rubbing on the thicker radiator. (compared to a factory radiator) No complaints here, just trimmed some material off to make sure nothing rubs through after a few track days.

Overall construction of the radiator left me impressed for what you pay. Time will tell, but it held pressure. I am happy at this point.
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36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
Test fitting the cooling fans with brackets and overflow tank, everything looked perfect. The twin fans gave me extra room around the W/P and crank pulleys. Now it was time to remove everything and prep for the wiring. This is where the small issue began.

The cooling fans had a completely square connector, while the pigtails had a radius on the inside of the connector on the corners. First one, slowly pushed on lightly and crack, first connector cracked in half. OK, lets look at the issue. Second one I radius the motor end and the connector will not even come close to snapping in where the spring clip will lock it in.

It's a small issue, but shouldn't be. I have a message sent to LMR and 2 more pigtails ordered from Amazon.(original pigtails came with the fans) I'm not sure if the issue is with the fans or the pigtails at this point. I'll let everyone know.
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36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
Looking at a few different classes I hope to run next year, they all specify a somewhat "finished" interior. So while I'm waiting on parts, I figured I would start fitting the carpet.

I still need all of the plastic interior panels though. So if anyone in or around WI has some cheap, let me know.

Thanks, Justin
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36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
Just a small update on the fan and radiator install. I did order 2 new connectors off of Amazon that were identical to the ones LMR sent with their install kit. After seeing that, I was curious, so I had a friend bring one over that was a factory connector out of a Contour. It was identical to the ones I received. At least I knew know that the issue was with the fans. After some careful grinding and sanding, the connectors slide on and clip into place without breaking. I'm only posting this hopefully to help someone who orders this kit. Make sure you fit them carefully. I still have not heard back from LMR, but I assume the issue is with the aftermarket parts they source since they are just a seller.

As the Radiator and new brackets go. I was able to fix the upper movement for and aft by just using a piece of the old radiator isolator. I used some Permatex Ultra Black to bond it to the new isolator. This kept the bracket from rubbing the radiator and kept the radiator from moving. So yes, I glued a old piece of rubber to a new piece, LOL. Gotta love "hot rodding"......

Now onto some wiring, my favorite part. Making things work.

Justin
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43
93
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Los Angeles
The boot heat covers you have are very helpful. Almost all of the ignition failures I have seen at the track are the TFI, hall sensor, or the coil. The aftermarket versions of most of those are not up to the heat load of racing. Especially the import TFI modules, so making sure you have good parts there and known good spares are important. One guy this last weekend had the bearing in the distro die and take out the hall sensor, had to drop in his spare distributor.
 
36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
The boot heat covers you have are very helpful. Almost all of the ignition failures I have seen at the track are the TFI, hall sensor, or the coil. The aftermarket versions of most of those are not up to the heat load of racing. Especially the import TFI modules, so making sure you have good parts there and known good spares are important. One guy this last weekend had the bearing in the distro die and take out the hall sensor, had to drop in his spare distributor.
Thank you for the advice. Since I will have the Holley TX coming one of these months, I might end up ordering a Holley Dual Sync distributor and running that. Still undecided though since this distributer has been good all of these years. (even though it looks old and tired)

I really don't want my first track day after the rebuild to end up a DNF. LOL.
 
The boot heat covers you have are very helpful. Almost all of the ignition failures I have seen at the track are the TFI, hall sensor, or the coil. The aftermarket versions of most of those are not up to the heat load of racing. Especially the import TFI modules, so making sure you have good parts there and known good spares are important. One guy this last weekend had the bearing in the distro die and take out the hall sensor, had to drop in his spare distributor.
The way Ford solved the TFI heat failure issues was to mount it off the dist. on a alum heatsink on inner fender using a harness running back to the Dist. I think this was found on some P/U's and Explorers or 5.0 T birds. I think there was also a aftermarket kit but its been years since I messes with this setup. Looked like this
tfi-icm-1.jpg
 
36
56
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
West Allis, WI
The way Ford solved the TFI heat failure issues was to mount it off the dist. on a alum heatsink on inner fender using a harness running back to the Dist. I think this was found on some P/U's and Explorers or 5.0 T birds. I think there was also a aftermarket kit but its been years since I messes with this setup. Looked like this
View attachment 69467
Perfect, thank you. Time do do some research over a few beverages tonight.

Thanks again, Justin.
 
Perfect, thank you. Time do do some research over a few beverages tonight.

Thanks again, Justin.
Found this from my past files. LMR may still have a kit. This was common in Rangers, Aerostar's , T birds ect. Salvage yard may still be best bet to find
 

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