1995 Mustang GT Cheap Track car build

Discussion in 'Track Cars and Other Cars Forum' started by KonaBoss, Mar 7, 2018.

  1. KonaBoss

    KonaBoss TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2016
    Location:
    Metro Detroit
    All,

    Was thinking about tracking my '12 boss, but like others have mentioned the consumable costs on them are pretty pricey. So with that in mind, I went out and bought a 1995 mustang GT. 5.0, 5 speed car, pretty much bone stock. Needs an exhaust leak fixed, some new suspension bushings, and a total fluids flush to get to the point where I'm comfortable with it. Anyone ever built one of these cars for road racing? Any hints/tips on how to progress through the build? Plan is to slowly upgrade the car over a couple years to spread out the cost, and to learn what the car needs as I go through upgrading it. Plan is to do primarily open track days, with an autocross or 2 thrown in for shakedown purposes. I'm out there to have fun and learn, I dont think it will ever progress to wheel to wheel type racing.
     
    Grant 302 likes this.
  2. VoodooBoss

    VoodooBoss Rick Moderator

    Messages:
    19,247
    Likes Received:
    1,825
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2010
    Location:
    90 Miles East of Sonoma Raceway
    In for updates.
     
  3. k98dave

    k98dave TMO Addict

    Messages:
    506
    Likes Received:
    59
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2015
    Location:
    FORT WORTH TEXAS
    Ah Good Old push rod 5.0. I did one for DE/track days with the following:
    After standard maint refresh like coolant/trans/rear dif & brake fluid changes I suggest you start with chassis stiffing, then suspension & brakes. Full length sub frame connectors (welded) are a must, the 94/95 cars are still basically a limp fox platform. Kenny Brown also had a set up that tied the pinch weld of the jacking rails to the sub frames. Adjustable panhard bar and rear LCA's. (Maximum Motosports has good LCA's with 3 pc bushings that will not bind up). I would look at new front control arms which are available as bushings and ball joints are most likely shot by now. Springs/Struts/shocks are available from various sources (I used Voghtland spring 1"drop with Koni's) For brakes, braided lines (all 5) Look at front calipers from the Cobra with fresh rotors. Plenty of pads to choose from. Rear brakes are same from all 94-2004 cars. The only issues on the 94/95 5.0's is ecu, its not as easily re programed like the good old A9L was and I know that tuning is somewhat limited especially if you go into bigger cam/heads down stream.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2018
  4. KonaBoss

    KonaBoss TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2016
    Location:
    Metro Detroit
    @k98dave Thanks for the writeup! That pretty well was the direction I was going to head. I'm thinking there is going to be quite a bit of maximum motorsports stuff that ends up on this car... In regards to the ECU tuning, I think I may end up running a megasquirt down the road at some point. I am a calibrator by trade, so might as well use my skillset :) If you come across any cheap maximum motorsports stuff feel free to post it. The whole idea of this build is budget as much as possible within reason of good quality parts.
     
  5. LS291

    LS291 TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2016
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    KonaBoss,

    I have been a 95 Mustang GT owner for 20 years now (see signature). I also happen to be in the final stages of a built 03 Cobra IRS swap. So, I have all of my SRA Maximum Motorsports parts that I was planning on selling, once I cleaned them up. They have no more than 15K miles on them. I have:

    Panhard bar, p/n MMPBA
    Lower control arms, p/n MMRLCA-2
    I also have the original axle assembly with less than 49K miles on it. It has 3.55s, an aluminum diff cover with main bearing supports, Cobra rear brakes (less rotors). I am transferring my nice, clean Bullitt calipers (same as Cobra) to the IRS and putting the Cobra calipers on the SRA.

    I bought my 95 GT back when I had an 86 GT daily driver. The 95 Fox4 chassis has always felt so much more solid than any of the Fox cars I have owned. The very first mod I did to mine was Kenny Brown super subs subframe connectors as suggested by k98dave. I also had the lower torque boxes welded once I added the supercharger. That may not be necessary for open track use but for me it was a piece of mind thing even though my car is all highway, backroads, and car shows type of driving.

    Let me know if interested. I'd be glad to help out a fellow TMO member and 95 owner.
     
  6. KonaBoss

    KonaBoss TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2016
    Location:
    Metro Detroit
    @LS291,

    Thanks for the support! Would definitely be interested in the parts off your car and gaining some input on car setup. Sent you a PM.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
     
  7. LS291

    LS291 TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2016
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    @KonaBoss - PM sent

    I did autocross my car once with another manufacturers' upper and lower control arms. That experience lead me to Maximum Motorsports. I have been with them ever since. Their stuff just works.

    My car was completely stock when I bought it in 1998. I have been modding it ever since a piece at a time. The first thing I would say is don't buy parts more than once. I mean that you get what you pay for. Go with a reputable company. This is especially true of suspension. You probably already know this but it is worth mentioning.

    Here are the things that I have/had on my car that would benefit your intended use where, once I made this change, it made a big impact:
    1. Steeda Tri-ax shifter. (MGW wasn't making them back then)
    2. Cobra brakes with Hawk HPS pads. (mine car is primarily street driven)
    3. Maximum Motorsports lower control arms and panhard bar. (wow - what a difference)
    4. Good lowering springs, sway bars, and shocks. (I went with Eibach and Bilstein for my primary street driving). Then MM caster/camber plates at the same time.
    You are starting with a fairly solid, light weight platform. With some work, you can get your car down to 3000 lbs.

    Keep the updates coming.
     
  8. KonaBoss

    KonaBoss TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2016
    Location:
    Metro Detroit
    @LS291, thanks for the input! I'm definitely going to stick with Maximum Motorsports wherever possible on this build. Thanks for working with me on your lower control arms and panhard bar setup, will be a step in the right direction for this build. Looking forward to picking them up. Would be fantastic if I could scrape the 3000 lbs mark or even slightly below.

    In other news, I started on the install of some BBK longtube headers yesterday. The shorty headers that came on the car had a really nasty exhaust leak at the connection of the header flange and the head itself, so out those came. Found out the PO must have used the cheapest gaskets known to man, basically compressed cardboard with no metal core... So suffice it to say they were blown out in a few different places. The longtubes are going back in with an ARP header stud conversion kit (really not a fan of header bolts), good fel-pro metal-cored gaskets, and some copper sealant. Think this should alleviate the leaking issues. Picking up a BBK offroad H-pipe this weekend to mate up to them, and going to connect that to a set of flowmaster super 44 dumps before the rear axle. Eventually I'm going to fab up a set of custom 2000 Cobra R side pipes to run the dumps over to (after I get annoyed with the drone, which I'm sure wont take long)...

    Next steps after that are going to be brake, suspension, and reliability related. Replace any old bushings with some prothane ones that the PO included with the car, and get the brakes sorted out (stainless lines, good pads, good fluid). Still need to flush the trans and differential fluids as well. After that will be a good set of tires.
     
  9. KonaBoss

    KonaBoss TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2016
    Location:
    Metro Detroit
    Minor update:

    Finished the longtube install last night, need to acquire an EGR blockoff plate and a shorter FEAD belt so I can delete the smog pump completely. Ended up ordering a bunch of maintenance items last night as well: New trans fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant, russell speed bleeders, and some new upper control arms with new bushings from Maximum Motorsports. Also purchased the complete stainless steel brake line kit from Maximum Motorsports as well. Looking forward to getting everything flushed and put back together so I can really go out and shake down the car.
     
    TymeSlayer likes this.
  10. KonaBoss

    KonaBoss TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2016
    Location:
    Metro Detroit
    Update time!

    Met up with @LS291 this weekend and picked up the Maximum Motorsports lower control arms and panhard bar setup. Pieces are in great shape and seller was super easy to work with. @LS291, I know I owe you those extra spacers you gave me, I'll shoot some pictures over today. Also picked the offroad H-pipe to mate up with my longtubes. Bolted that up to the longtubes when I got home Sunday, and put my EGR delete plate in as well. Fired the ol' girl up and she lives again! Actually seems to run quite a bit better than it used to, probably due to the new spark plugs I put in and properly gapped. Have to put the strut tower brace back on tonight, then I'll probably drive it to work the next couple days to shake the car down.

    Next things happening will be flushing the remainder of the fluids (Brake, coolant, power steering, and trans fluid). After that, I have a new set of wheels and tires coming to put on the car (some vintage stuff here, Forgeline RS Comp's in 17x9 with BF Goodrich rival rubber), and one of the guys here at work is supposed to be hooking me up with a pretty interesting brake combination (more to come on that).
     
  11. LS291

    LS291 TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2016
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    @KonaBoss and his brother were super nice people to meet. More proof I am on the right website!

    Let me know of anything else you need. Keep the updates coming!

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
     
  12. KonaBoss

    KonaBoss TMO Intermediate

    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2016
    Location:
    Metro Detroit
    Some updates from the build at a high level:
    Lower control arms are installed, and one of the upper control arms is in. I had issues with the maximum motorsports bushing install and removal tool, so waiting on a new bolt for that tool to put in the other new upper control arm.
    Found out the rear caliper slides were totally frozen, so ordered new rear caliper assemblies.
    Sourced a big brake kit for the car from a co-worker. Consists of 13" C4 corvette vented front rotors drilled for a mustang bolt pattern, and Porsche 928 GTS brembo calipers. The calipers are mounted on a custom adapter bracket to mate to the spindle. In the rear, he made a bracket to bump the stock caliper up and run 13-14 GT500 rear rotors.
    With the brakes came a couple of supporting mods. Needed new wheels to clear the new calipers, and stumbled upon a set of Forgeline RS Comps with BFGoodrich Rivals on them. Those should be arriving today. Also needed to do a bump steer kit to clear the new rotors, so picked up the steeda unit.
    To spruce up the front and rear springs and dampers, have another friend that is selling a set of tokico D-spec dampers for cheap. Going to pick those up and convert them to coilovers with maximum motorsport's kit, and run some forward offset tubular front control arms with maximum caster camber plates. I'm thinking a spring rate right around 375lbs in the front (the most the tokicos are rated to), and then the matching stock location springs in the rear.

    I have a much more detailed write-up of the build over on Grassroots:
    https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/f...-mustang-gt-one-cheap-track-rat/137470/page1/ . I'll continue to update here, but for pictures and in-depth status updates, check over there.
     
    TymeSlayer and VoodooBoss like this.

Share This Page