2012/2013 Boss302/Mustang GT Ford Issued Technical Service Bulletin's

[VoodooBoss]

Please post any TSB's you find here. Please do not post PDF's. Instead convert them to JPG file format to make it easier for all to read. Use the TSB number in the subject line for your post so it will be easily picked up by the search function. See post #2 as an example.

Any questions or assistance send me a PM. Keep all discussion to the specific TSB and use other threads to discuss any issues or symptoms you're having.

Here are a couple of resources.

http://www.safercar.gov/Vehicle+Owners

 

[VoodooBoss]

TSB 13-06-15 Random Misfire Code and O-Ring Fix

Here's a direct link and text:

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/pubs/content/~WT/~MUS~LEN/3607/tsb13-06-15.htm

FORD:
2011-2014 Mustang

ISSUE:

Some 2011-2014 Mustang vehicles equipped with a 5.0L engine and built on or before 5/1/2013 may exhibit a MIL illuminated with any combination of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308 and/or P0316. There will be no other DTCs or drivability symptoms present.
ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

Using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS), perform self test on the powertrain control module (PCM) to check for both key-on engine off (KOEO) and key-on engine running (KOER) DTCs.
If any DTCs P0300-P0308 and/or P0316 are present in KOER and/or a drivability concern such as cylinder misfire are present, this article does not apply. Refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual for normal diagnostics.
If any DTCs P0300-P0308 and/or P0316 are present in KOEO and no drivability concerns are present, remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor and install an o-ring on the CKP sensor. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-14. (Figure 1)


Figure 1 - Article 13-6-15

Using IDS, clear DTCs and perform Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction.


PART NUMBER PART NAME
FOPZ-9229-A O-ring

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

 

[ChristianGrebe]

TSB 13-1-11


TSB 13-1-11

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED - DTCS P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308 - NO DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 11/30/2012


FORD: 2013 Mustang

This article supersedes TSB 12-12-8 to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE:

Some 2013 Mustang vehicles built on or before 11/30/2012 and equipped with a 5.0L engine and manual transmission may exhibit a Check Engine Light illuminated accompanied by any combination of diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 and/or P0308 stored in continuous memory only. Additionally, there will be no apparent driveability symptoms present and no DTCs present which are not listed.

ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

[list type=decimal]
[*]Using IDS, perform self test on the powertrain control module (PCM) to check for both continuous memory diagnostic trouble codes (CMDTCs) and key on engine running (KOER) DTCs.

1.a. If any DTCs P0300-P0308 are present in KOER and/or a driveability concern, such as cylinder misfire, is present, this article does not apply. Refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual for normal diagnostics.

1.b. If any DTCs P0300 - P0308 are present in continuous memory and there is no discernible driveability concern, verify if misfire conditions were at RPMs between 3500-4200 RPM, with a load of less than 0.25 using IDS OBD II freeze frame data and/or use IDS datalogger and view MFF_RPM, and MFF_LOAD PIDS (datalogger->modules->PCM).

1.b.1. If these conditions were met then reprogram the PCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 82.02 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2012.11 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com.

1.b.2. If not proceed to Step 2.



[*]Using IDS, perform the Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction procedure.
[/list]
WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

OPERATION	DESCRIPTION	TIME
130111A	2013 Mustang 5.0L Engine Manual Transmission (MT82): Check DTCs, Monitor Data, Reprogram The PCM If Necessary Includes Time To Perform The Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction Procedures And Clear Codes After Repair (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations)	0.3

DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO.	CONDITION CODE
RECALEM	04

[SIZE=x-small]NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.[/SIZE]
Copyright © 2013 Ford Motor Company

 

[GottaBoss]

Here's one that came out recently and has been updated a couple of times. I think this is the latest...

Direct Link....http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/pubs/content/~WT/~MUS~LEN/3599/tsb13-09-03.htm

Full Text....

Printable View (167 KB)
TSB
13-9-3
GRUNT/CREAK/CHIRP/SQUEAK NOISE FROM THE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM OVER BUMPS
Publication Date: September 4, 2013

FORD:
2011-2014 Mustang
The article supersedes TSB 13-7-8 to update the Service Procedure and Part List.

ISSUE:

Some 2011-2014 Mustangs vehicles may exhibit a grunt/creak/chirp/squeak noise from the front lower control arm hydro bushing. These noises may occur over large vertical bumps like speed bumps, pot holes, rough roads and driveway approaches.

ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Attach Rotunda wireless chassis ears (JSP97202) or equivalent on both lower control arm hydro bushing bracket tabs to verify noise is coming from the hydro bushing.
The hydro bushing is the large diameter bushing at the rear of the control arm. Due to hydraulic fluid flow some noise from the bushing is normal. There would typically be some difference from side to side on a unit with a noisy control arm.
If the noise is not confirmed as coming from the hydro bushing, this article does not apply, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-00 for normal diagnostics.
If the noise is confirmed as coming from the hydro bushing, replace the affected lower control arm with the new lower control arm with shield and three (3) screws. Tighten the three (3) shield screws to 7 N-m (62 lb-in.) Refer to WSM, Section 204-01. (Figure 1)


Figure 1 - Article 13-9-3


PART NUMBER PART NAME
CR3Z-3078-D Arm Asy - Right Front
CR3Z-3079-D Arm Asy - Left Front
W710141-S439 Lower Arm Rear Bolt (2 Req)
W709865-S439 Lower Arm Front Bolt (1 Req)
W710909-S439 Steering Gear Bolt (2 Req)
W711123-S439 Ball Joint Bolt (1 Req)
W520215-S440 Lower Arm Rear Nut (2 Req)
W520214-S440 Ball Joint Nut (1 Req)
W713882-S437 Rack Nut
4R3Z-5G221-LH Shield - Left
4R3Z-5G221-RH Shield - Right
W704873-S439 Screw - Shield (3 Req)
WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
130903A 2011-2014 Mustang: Replace One (1) Front Lower Control Arm, Includes Time To Diagnose 1.8 Hrs.
130903B 2011-2014 Mustang: Replace Two (2) Front Lower Control Arms, Includes Time To Diagnose 2.1 Hrs.
DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
3078 42
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.
Copyright © 2013 Ford Motor Company

 

[macker007]

I've recently had the P0301 and P0304 DTCs on my 13 Boss 302. When it happens the yellow engine symbol flashes and I have a brief reduction in power. The light disappears after 20-30 secs. and the car then resumes normal operation. Happens with standard key or track key.

Not sure if this is the issue described by the TSB or something else, given there is a brief drivability issue (power reduction).

Anyone had this issue and had it fixed using the Ford TSB?

 

[BlueKona12]

I've recently had the P0301 and P0304 DTCs on my 13 Boss 302. When it happens the yellow engine symbol flashes and I have a brief reduction in power. The light disappears after 20-30 secs. and the car then resumes normal operation. Happens with standard key or track key.

Not sure if this is the issue described by the TSB or something else, given there is a brief drivability issue (power reduction).

Anyone had this issue and had it fixed using the Ford TSB?

Hi,

I've been having that issue for a couple of months on my 2012 - trying to figure it out. Usually it stores a misc. misfire code P0300 so not attributed to a specific cylinder - and no misfire is detected by me. I'm also holding a permanent P0300 misfire code that won't clear, seems to be just for the record - doesn't trigger the Check Engine light to stay on. I'm working on isolating and correcting it hopefully without having to get the O-ring put in or a re-flash from Ford.

I've put in a new air filter and have been adding half-bottle of octane boost per tank for the last couple tanks, and its still happening though think it may be a bit better. Next fill up will use the whole bottle - even though it says treats up to 28 gallons. That should confirm once and for all if its an octane issue. .

If that doesn't work I'm going to try a new set of spark plugs even though I'm not near the mileage limit on them - though they are 10 years old. If I get to that point will probably try getting the non-track-key channel flashed with the newest available code for the Boss and see if that fixes it. As a last resort guess will have to look at the O-ring as described in the TSP though don't really want to tear into it.

Thinking if none of what I'm describing fixes the issue prior to the O-ring, then maybe its an issue of the Ti-VCT not getting the hydraulic pressure it needs to work correctly at higher RPM, so O-ring? I'm not a Ford mechanic, just a motor-head but this is where I'm at with it. The reason I'm thinking the O-ring may not be the issue is that under the Track Key it sometimes doesn't happen - even though it does always on the black key.

Keep me in the loop on what you're up to please, been looking for someone else with this issue. Thank you,

Alan

 

[TMSBOSS]

If you have not installed the o-ring, please consider moving this to the top of your repair/mod list. The next step after the o-ring would be the CJ Pulse Ring and or the crank sensor.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-pulse-ring-high-rpm-competition-5-0l-2011-2014/p/M12A227CJ1/?year=2012&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs8zO0OH68wIVIfHjBx2EKQz5EAYYASABEgIJ4fD_BwE

As unusual as it sounds, many Boss owners had good luck with the o-ring mod.

 

[macker007]

Hi,

I've been having that issue for a couple of months on my 2012 - trying to figure it out. Usually it stores a misc. misfire code P0300 so not attributed to a specific cylinder - and no misfire is detected by me. I'm also holding a permanent P0300 misfire code that won't clear, seems to be just for the record - doesn't trigger the Check Engine light to stay on. I'm working on isolating and correcting it hopefully without having to get the O-ring put in or a re-flash from Ford.

I've put in a new air filter and have been adding half-bottle of octane boost per tank for the last couple tanks, and its still happening though think it may be a bit better. Next fill up will use the whole bottle - even though it says treats up to 28 gallons. That should confirm once and for all if its an octane issue. .

If that doesn't work I'm going to try a new set of spark plugs even though I'm not near the mileage limit on them - though they are 10 years old. If I get to that point will probably try getting the non-track-key channel flashed with the newest available code for the Boss and see if that fixes it. As a last resort guess will have to look at the O-ring as described in the TSP though don't really want to tear into it.

Thinking if none of what I'm describing fixes the issue prior to the O-ring, then maybe its an issue of the Ti-VCT not getting the hydraulic pressure it needs to work correctly at higher RPM, so O-ring? I'm not a Ford mechanic, just a motor-head but this is where I'm at with it. The reason I'm thinking the O-ring may not be the issue is that under the Track Key it sometimes doesn't happen - even though it does always on the black key.

Keep me in the loop on what you're up to please, been looking for someone else with this issue. Thank you,

Alan

Hi Alan, from reading the TSB, it sounds more applicable to your situation then mine, as you don't have any drivability issue associated with the DTC (P0300). I definitely have a noticeable drivability issue when the problem occurs (car lugs/loses power). It's happened for me with both the standard key and the track key. Not sure where the crank sensor is located on our Boss', therefore can't comment if its an average DIY job, or requires a lot disassembly to get to and replace. I replaced one (CPS) on my 1989 Taurus SHO back in the day and that required a lot of work to get too.....then again it was a FWD/transverse mounted motor.

I've purchased a set of stock spark plugs to install in the spring when I take the car out of storage. That will be my 1st step to try and resolve the problem. Both times the car has thrown the code its occurred on the passenger side cylinder bank. Other possibilities could be bad coil pack(s) or injector(s). I have approx. 35000 miles on my Boss, of which most were put on by the original owner (just bought the car this past July). I'm not really confident the new plugs will be the fix, but will give me an excuse to check their condition. Perhaps the valve cover gaskets are allowing oil to pass into a couple of the plug holes.....and causing the misfire?

I'll provide an update when I do the plug install next spring. The joys of owning a high performance car.

 

[BlueKona12]

Oh I definitely have the same drivability issue that you do, blinking CE light and loss of power until it stops. Thinking the the crank sensor and the Ti-VCT O-ring are both probably under the front/timing cover - so not too bad. Still, would prefer not to dig in there if I don't have to. Will weigh back in once I do my low-cost/low-effort checks.

Before I ever had this problem I know that the power band used to thin out a bit as you climbed through 4500, and then it would get a second wind almost right away as the revs climbed out past 5500. This issue just seems like that second wind is gone, and that's where the CE light starts blinking.

I find the loss of power when this happens really disheartening since I can't count on the power I might need being there. I actually had my power drop to an even lower level once - almost a fail-safe/limp mode. Its the only time it was that extreme, but it was the also the one time I really needed that HP to get away from a bad situation.

 

[macker007]

Oh I definitely have the same drivability issue that you do, blinking CE light and loss of power until it stops. Thinking the the crank sensor and the Ti-VCT O-ring are both probably under the front/timing cover - so not too bad. Still, would prefer not to dig in there if I don't have to. Will weigh back in once I do my low-cost/low-effort checks.

Before I ever had this problem I know that the power band used to thin out a bit as you climbed through 4500, and then it would get a second wind almost right away as the revs climbed out past 5500. This issue just seems like that second wind is gone, and that's where the CE light starts blinking.

I find the loss of power when this happens really disheartening since I can't count on the power I might need being there. I actually had my power drop to an even lower level once - almost a fail-safe/limp mode. Its the only time it was that extreme, but it was the also the one time I really needed that HP to get away from a bad situation.

Well, sounds like you and I have the exact same problem. This issue also occurred for me when accelerating above 4K RPMs the two times it happened. The O-ring being referenced in the TSB is the one on the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). I'll have to look in the spring to see how accessible it is, and if it doesn't require too much to remove/replace, I think I'll just go and get a new one. I'm assuming it's as easy as removing the existing one and replacing it with the new and (and that the new one comes with the fatter O-ring) that you don't have to have cylinder #1 at TDC or anything like that. Would be nice if the fix is that simple. If not, I'll have to take it into one of the Ford dealerships close to me and have them figure it out. Don't think its a good idea to let these mis-fires persist too long.....could possibly harm the CATS if there's a bunch of unburnt fuel finding their way into them??

Let me know if you find the solution before next spring.

 

[mwjscn]

Thinking the the crank sensor and the Ti-VCT O-ring are both probably under the front/timing cover - so not too bad.

The crank trigger wheel sits on the back of the crank underneath the flywheel. You can see the sensor body itself at the 1 o'clock position.

The sensor can be accessed on the outside from behind the passenger-side cylinder head.

Here is an exploded view to give you an idea of how the parts interface, with the red line illustrating the path of the sensor into the engine (can compare to the first picture):

 

[macker007]

The crank trigger wheel sits on the back of the crank underneath the flywheel. You can see the sensor body itself at the 1 o'clock position.
View attachment 69915
The sensor can be accessed on the outside from behind the passenger-side cylinder head.
View attachment 69916

Here is an exploded view to give you an idea of how the parts interface, with the red line illustrating the path of the sensor into the engine (can compare to the first picture):
View attachment 69919

The crank trigger wheel sits on the back of the crank underneath the flywheel. You can see the sensor body itself at the 1 o'clock position.
View attachment 69915
The sensor can be accessed on the outside from behind the passenger-side cylinder head.
View attachment 69916

Here is an exploded view to give you an idea of how the parts interface, with the red line illustrating the path of the sensor into the engine (can compare to the first picture):
View attachment 69919

Great info. thanks! I guess the only issue is the Scan tool required to perform the post install of the new sensor.

 

[macker007]

If you have not installed the o-ring, please consider moving this to the top of your repair/mod list. The next step after the o-ring would be the CJ Pulse Ring and or the crank sensor.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-pulse-ring-high-rpm-competition-5-0l-2011-2014/p/M12A227CJ1/?year=2012&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs8zO0OH68wIVIfHjBx2EKQz5EAYYASABEgIJ4fD_BwE

As unusual as it sounds, many Boss owners had good luck with the o-ring mod.

Add me to the list of owners having luck with the additional O-Ring on the crank position sensor(CPS). I was initially going to take it to a local Ford dealer to get it done, but decided to tackle it by purchasing a new CPS and installing it myself. The dealer wanted $270 Cdn. to add the O-ring (to the existing CPS) and then do the CPS Re-learn/Misfire monitor correction procedure.

I bought a new Motorcraft CPS and though not the easiest area to work in, replaced the CPS myself with a little patience. You don't need to remove anything to get at it, but need some good lighting to see what you're doing. For those that want to attempt it, removing the bolt and then sliding the CPS with Electrical connector still attached can be done with a little finesse. You can then easily disconnect the electrical connector from the CPS. Re-install the CPS WITHOUT the electrical connector, then when you have tightened down with the bolt, attach the electrical connector. I could not get it positioned properly when the electrical connector was attached because part of the engine is in the way....and it has to be inserted on an angle. Note: the metal part of the CPS is magnetized...so be careful not to pick up any metal fragments on it.

I then took it to a shop that specializes in Mustangs and they performed the Re-learn/Mis-fire correction procedure described in the TSB. Cost me $74 Cdn. for that. Definitely saved myself some $$ approaching it this way vs. Ford Dealer. Think I need to buy another mod for the car now.

Here's the new and old CPS side by side for comparison.