S197 2012 Mustang GT/CS Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

[Theviking]

This is the Build Thread for 2012 Mustang GT/CS. Reply below.

 

[Theviking]

Sort of listing the build in reverse order Ditched the 14" Brembo setup I added in 2012 and upgraded to a 2013/14 GT500 15" 6 piston setup. Also add GiroDisc rotors to help keep the rotating mass down. Swapped track pads from PFC 08's to G-LOC R10/R8 pads. Never had any complaints with the 14" setup but this is definitely a very noticeable improvement. Purchased used so gave them a quick bath in the ultrasonic cleaner.

 

[Theviking]

Found a very lightly used set of Cortex/JRi single adjustable struts/shocks for sale at half the price of a new kit. Spring rates were 450/225, so a little on the soft side although you'd never know it riding around at their current settings. Would rather have the double adjustable system but according to their tech line these can be converted. Makes the learning curve on adjustments easier anyway. Was running Koni Yellow struts since 2012 with MM camber/caster plates and they worked well enough for the money. But so much nicer having the ability to adjust ride height and select spring rates. Plus they are a mono-tube design vs the twin-tube setup Koni uses.

My only real complaint is that I can't get the ride height up any higher on the rears. Would be nice to have a little more adjustability here.

 

[67GTA]

My only real complaint is that I can't get the ride height up any higher on the rears. Would be nice to have a little more adjustability here.

Clarity check - you’re looking to increase the rear ride height, but limited because the adjuster is all the way down on the threaded body? If so, you could add a helper spring and collar that acts like a shim. Gets you in between spring lengths, ie 7” is too short and 8” would have the collar up too high and interfere with the wheel.

 

[67GTA]

Found a very lightly used set of Cortex/JRi single adjustable struts/shocks for sale at half the price of a new kit. Spring rates were 450/225, so a little on the soft side although you'd never know it riding around at their current settings. Would rather have the double adjustable system but according to their tech line these can be converted. Makes the learning curve on adjustments easier anyway. Was running Koni Yellow struts since 2012 with MM camber/caster plates and they worked well enough for the money. But so much nicer having the ability to adjust ride height and select spring rates. Plus they are a mono-tube design vs the twin-tube setup Koni uses.

My only real complaint is that I can't get the ride height up any higher on the rears. Would be nice to have a little more adjustability here.

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You’ve got me 2nd guessing my top brackets on the rear coilovers again. I just installed my new Cortex setup last weekend, and our top brackets are opposite. What you have mounted on the right, I have on the left and vice versa. I scoured the web looking for decent install pictures which came up surprisingly fruitless. I finally convinced myself using the tiny picture in the Cortex install manual that I found on their website. There’s a distinct curve in the body that I used to determine which side was which - red arrow below.

 

[Theviking]

Clarity check - you’re looking to increase the rear ride height, but limited because the adjuster is all the way down on the threaded body? If so, you could add a helper spring and collar that acts like a shim. Gets you in between spring lengths, ie 7” is too short and 8” would have the collar up too high and interfere with the wheel.

That's a great idea, thank you!

 

[Theviking]

You’ve got me 2nd guessing my top brackets on the rear coilovers again. I just installed my new Cortex setup last weekend, and our top brackets are opposite. What you have mounted on the right, I have on the left and vice versa. I scoured the web looking for decent install pictures which came up surprisingly fruitless. I finally convinced myself using the tiny picture in the Cortex install manual that I found on their website. There’s a distinct curve in the body that I used to determine which side was which - red arrow below.

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That's interesting. I'll send a few of my pictures to Cortex and hopefully they respond with some clarification.

 

[Theviking]

Back in 2013 I purchased a Cool Tech oil cooler kit. It was ungodly expensive but since the GT doesn't have any factory oil cooler it seemed like a worthwhile expense. Cheaper than a new motor anyway. As most here probably already know the kit uses a Setrab cooler and high quality hardware. Kendall was a great guy to deal and I figured if the Ford GT guys are buying his stuff it must be ok for my lowly Mustang

 

[Theviking]

Everything seemed good with the kit until 2020 when it started leaking. I contacted Setrab USA directly and they advised it should have been mounted at 4 points. The kit only mounts at the top since there is no easy-ish way to secure the bottom where it's mounted. Then due to vibration it eventually sprung a leak. Regardless Marv at Setrab offered to sell me a replacement cooler at his cost (about half of retail). He also suggested upgrading my 50-172-7612 from the Cool Tech kit with a 52-12965-01 This cooler mounts differently and is much sturdier than the original stacked plate design. It still uses the same M8x1.0 mounting bungs. I fabricated some new mounts although I eventually want to revisit and secure the bottom properly as well. Suggestions are welcome

 

[Theviking]

New cooler mounted. Yes the zip tie is a bit of backwoods engineering but until I have time to figure out the bottom mount it was sort of my "last act of a desperate man". Even with just the upper two points the cooler is mounted solidly and doesn't have any play to speak of.

 

[Theviking]

Installed the MM K Member in 2017. It's probably overkill but does have a number of benefits, especially on a lowered car.

• Optimized roll center height for a Mustang lowered to the limit of the American Iron rules.
• Stronger and stiffer than stock k-member, to allow less deflection under cornering and braking loads.
• Fits stock motor mounts, for least change in NVH
• Fits stock front control arms, with stock or aftermarket bushings
• Fits both electric and hydraulic steering racks
• Allows easy oil pan removal without requiring additional engine support
• Upgradable to SLA suspension

MM sells a brace which holds the motor in place while you're replacing the K Member. This makes the whole job so much easier then having to rig something up yourself. The aluminum blocks also allow you to pin the motor in place without the K Member installed for maintenance. I'm not sure what SLA kit you'd even use or if they were just providing the mounting points for something custom. But nothing ever materialized on their website. MM provided their own trans scoop, which does seem to sit just a bit higher than the Ford unit. Which made lots of fun sounds when you hit a big bump or dip in the pavement

Apologies for the poor quality photographs, not my best work here.

 

[Theviking]

I also installed the Moroso oil pan since the standard pan might be considered sub-par on track. I've read good and bad with just about every pan for these cars, but so far it seems to have worked as advertised.

 

[JDee]

I have the same pan, at least it looks the same. I was getting pressure drops in high G corners, this pan solved it and there's been no further problems.

 

[Theviking]

I have the same pan, at least it looks the same. I was getting pressure drops in high G corners, this pan solved it and there's been no further problems.

Good to hear! Haven't had any issues, but need to finish my pod/gauge install so I can better track the pressure and temps.

 

[Theviking]

In 2016 I decided to order a GT350 intake from MMR to see what it would do for upper RPM gains. On a Gen1 non-Boss Coyote things start to nosedive quickly past 6500rpm. Which considering the typical OEM clutch issues might not have been a bad thing But regardless I ordered one from MMR along with the corresponding 87mm TB, stock is 80mm. Unfortunately at the time SCT hadn't released the parameters to tune a newer style TB on earlier cars and I would up having to use the stock TB (along with an adapter) for testing. Shaun at AED providing the tunes, although all remote since I'm not local to his shop.

Long story short the manifold worse exactly as expected, but not without it's challenges. Mostly because I was an early adopter and there was little feedback or support on this swap yet.

 

[Theviking]

Chart comparing the two runs.

 

[Theviking]

FYI, the IMRC's simply block off most of the runner in the closed position. It's not a variable length intake and there are no additional passages to the plenum. I have no idea what RPM they activate, but looking at the amount of runner that's blocked I would assume it's pretty low in the RPM range during full throttle.

Looking at the overall design it's very similar to the stock Coyote manifold. Runner length is similar and obviously longer than the the Boss/CJ. Even without the IMRC operating it made about the same or better torque across the curve.

At the time there we no CMCV lockout kits available so I just removed all the excess hardware and safely wired the blades open.