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2012 mustang suspension rebuild and upgrades.

2
1
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Louisiana
Hi all my 2012 GT is coming up on 150k and I have decided to park it to tackle much needed preventive maintence and do some upgrades.

So far here is my shopping list, mind you suspension is currently full stock and I do street the car a lot as it is my part time daily.

Out front:
Prothane front LCA bushings (both front and hydra bushing)
Steeda X11 ball joints

Can't decide on Steeda HD strut mounts or Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates, going lowered later but struts/shocks and springs are not in the current budget and the strut mounts need replacing now.

In the rear:
BMR rear LCAs with urethane bushings (steel or the mild steel ones better?) Also alternatively are the round tubing LCAs superior to box tubing?
Steeda adjustable UCA (cheaper than the BMR unit)
Prothane Diff bushing
BMR UCA mount.

Does all this sound like a good plan?
Anything else I should do?
 
When it comes to the camber plates I would look at vorschlage I have the steeda units and don’t really care for them (not much adjustment) I have the boxes bmr steel lower control arms and for the price there great but i will be upgrading to the full tilt boogie racing lower control arms. And for rear upper control arm I would look at @BillyJRacing write up on Motoiq.com it’s pretty informative anyways hope this helps a little bit and good luck with the build!
 
171
140
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I had the Steeda camber plates for about 6 years with no issue. I went to the Vorshlag plates to get more adjustment and really didn't gain much. The spring perches on the Koni's are the limiting factor. They contact the tower before the Vorshlag plates run out of adjustment. I can see where the Vorshlags plates would have much more adjustment with coil overs, since the springs have a smaller diameter.
 
and the vorschlages weren’t any better? That was my next route the steedas have been on the car since new (I believe that’s why there 2010 style?? Previous owner put them on) and I rebuilt them once but there is still a noticible “pop” coming from the left front and I’ve checked everything else so I figured it must be the plates.
 
171
140
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
The Steeda's I got about -1.4 degrees with Koni Oranges and Steeda Sport springs. I switched to Steeda Competition Springs and Koni yellows and got about the same, so I bought a set of Vorshlag camber plates. I got around -1.5 before cutting the strut towers. I pulled them back out and cut the towers. Now I get around -1.8. My K member must be a little off center. I actually can get around -2 on one side, but only -1.8 on the other. I have not had time to try and recenter it. The Vorshlag plates have more adj, but the spring perches hit the towers limiting the range of adjustment.
 

JDee

Ancient Racer
1,301
1,181
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
halfway between Mosport and Shannonville
I got max of -2.2 with MM plates, which I don't recommend as they were very problematic. Switched to Vorshlags and cut the towers out, can get -4.1. I usually run at -3.5 and I get very even tire wear. Nothing is touching anything it's not supposed to.
S550 maybe has more clearance in the strut tower than the S197 does? Just a thought.
 

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