2013 Hellion Twin Turbo BOSS

[Justin]

Ace pretty much nailed it.

it's a lot more involved and easier to explain then type.

I understand what is needed to upgrade drivetrain wise in order to support that power. I would like a kit price with a driveable tune to get me to a dyno shop price. I can install the turbo kit myself. Whats the price on that? or does that require a phone call as well?

 

[jeepinocala]

Ace pretty much nailed it.

it's a lot more involved and easier to explain then type.

I understand what is needed to upgrade drivetrain wise in order to support that power. I would like a kit price with a driveable tune to get me to a dyno shop price. I can install the turbo kit myself. Whats the price on that? or does that require a phone call as well?

Justin are you the one who ownes a procharger?

 

[[email protected]]

Ace pretty much nailed it.

it's a lot more involved and easier to explain then type.

I understand what is needed to upgrade drivetrain wise in order to support that power. I would like a kit price with a driveable tune to get me to a dyno shop price. I can install the turbo kit myself. Whats the price on that? or does that require a phone call as well?

the pricing is on our website but for more in depth, would be easier to call. 561-417-5555

http://www.blowbyracing.com/20muhetwtuki.html

injectors, a BAP, and a tuner are also required

 

[Justin]

http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=183
the complete kit is 8495 straight from hellion with a base tune....

 

[jeepinocala]

http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=183
the complete kit is 8495 straight from hellion with a base tune....

Ok so you cannot tell me that compares to kennebell now that there is a price Ha, I am sure it is worth every cent. No pun that kit looks great and you do have to pay to play I just compare to just adding the cash towards a gt500 and that is getting closer, much closer.

 

[Sesshomurai]

Isn't there a risk of breaking a driveshaft or similar torqued part with the added power? I read in other places where people slapped supercharges on a stock boss and the drivetrain couldn't handle the mammoth hp/tq.

And if I were to buy this kit, where could I have it installed properly? I live in northern virginia.

 

[Justin]

Isn't there a risk of breaking a driveshaft or similar torqued part with the added power? I read in other places where people slapped supercharges on a stock boss and the drivetrain couldn't handle the mammoth hp/tq.

And if I were to buy this kit, where could I have it installed properly? I live in northern virginia.

you should be close to JPC he can handle that install.

And yes I would upgrade to a DSS driveshaft

 

[Kenaizer]

I called a while ago and the price was around 7500 without injectors or install but that was before they had a magazine write up..

I wouldn't even run slicks or radials on a stock car without an upgraded driveshaft. I had this same CF DSS shaft on my '11 5.0 and it was the second thing I installed on my BOSS.

 

[Sesshomurai]

I called a while ago and the price was around 7500 without injectors or install but that was before they had a magazine write up..

I wouldn't even run slicks or radials on a stock car without an upgraded driveshaft. I had this same CF DSS shaft on my '11 5.0 and it was the second thing I installed on my BOSS.

Not to shift topics but I read elsewhere on this forum a short bit ago that there were problems going to the single piece DDS drive shaft in this car. Something about friction and the angles and they said that is why the current shaft is 2 piece...let me try to find that article.

 

[Justin]

I called a while ago and the price was around 7500 without injectors or install but that was before they had a magazine write up..

I wouldn't even run slicks or radials on a stock car without an upgraded driveshaft. I had this same CF DSS shaft on my '11 5.0 and it was the second thing I installed on my BOSS.

Not to shift topics but I read elsewhere on this forum a short bit ago that there were problems going to the single piece DDS drive shaft in this car. Something about friction and the angles and they said that is why the current shaft is 2 piece...let me try to find that article.

Someone here had issues with the dynotech shaft. there are a few of us with the dss shaft no issues. this is the article you are probably thinking of

For the last 6 years we have been chasing an elusive thing, we have been trying to make a driveshaft for the new Mustang (S197) that is not only the strongest shaft out there, but also the most stable shaft when it comes to dealing with the harmonic vibrations that these cars are plagued with. In our opinion these cars were rushed to market with a harmonic vibration in the drive train. This is very obvious as the stock 2-piece 43lb anchor of a driveshaft that came installed in the car to help cure the problem. For those who are not aware, the rear of the factory shaft has a 9lb steel dampener inside of the tube (see picture) helping to make it so tremendously heavy.

Over the last few years we have tried a few different types of shafts. First we tried a steel shaft and they had more of a harmonic vibration. We then moved onto the Explorer/Ranger style male and female aluminum slider shaft with decent results, but the success rate was not as high as we wanted. We then even went as far a making our own male/female slider that also allowed us to give you the stronger 1350 series u-joint on both ends with a supplied pinion yoke for the differential.

Just to bring you into our world a little bit, we here at DSS go about things a little different than
most Drive shaft companies. Most shaft companies buy the separate Shaft parts, they put them together and send them out the door. We are a full 22,000 sq. ft machine shop and manufacture a lot of the parts that we use, so when it comes to having trouble with a particular part we have not only the engineering in house to review the problem, but also have the machines to make the parts needed to correct these problems.

So going back to the slider, we went ahead and produced a female slider and it was considerably better than the Ford Explorer/Ranger type, but we still had some cars that had a stability problem, so we went even further. During this time we had taken delivery of a new type of balancing machine (show machine). This was a custom built machine that our owner Frank had spec'd out with the company's engineers, and were told the machine would take 3-4 months to make. Well, one and half years later we took delivery of the machine (3/2010) and a whole new world was opened up. Most are not aware that a balancing machine normally does not spin a shaft at the actual speed that the shaft will be spinning at, (click here for more about this) and to make a long story short, this new balancer has the ability to spin a shaft at any speed we want from 10RPM right up to 9500RPM (and everything in between). This balancer has enabled us to see the male/female slider type shaft become unstable at certain speeds and helped us to understand that we needed to take a different direction to make the shaft correctly.

What may come as a surprise to some is that we actually had the CV style driveshaft pictured in our 2009 Catalog, expecting the arrival of the new balancer. We wanted to wait to make sure that it was as stable as we had hoped by testing it in the new machine and that is why it was not used before now. Some time has passed and we were not only able to test the shaft in the new balancer, but we have given these shafts to a few chosen, well known shops for testing. The results are in, and every single car has been flawless. We were able to achieve exactly what we wanted, the best balanced shaft without the problems associated with the harmonics problems of a slider and strength without compare.

The Shaft will retain the factory 6-bolt CV mount, so we have eliminated the problems associated with changing out the pinion yoke, and we have supplied a plate to convert the stock rear CV flange to fit a modified version of a 108mm CV that will be able to move in and out with suspension movement. We didn't stop there though, the original spline going into the 108mm CV is still a small 28 spline, similar to a C4 transmission output, so we decided to make the stub section ourselves using a new 300M material that we have been getting out of Sweden. This material is the same used in our record setting axles on many 8 second drag/street cars. We are also using a special boot and grease combination to ensure longevity of the CV. This, along with the 3.5” 6061-T6 aluminum and 1350 front u-joint, makes this the strongest shaft available for the platform with no clearance issues.

So if you have been waiting for the best shaft available for your Mustang, the wait is over. This is what some of the people testing this shaft out had to say about them.

The latest update is from a gentleman that installed one in a 5-speed Mustang GT. We had been waiting for the exact measurements to check the fitment on this one in order to switch over to the new CV shafts. Here is what he had to say:

Steve,
Any luck on putting the shaft in the car?



Yes
Your product is excellent! The car feels tighter, more responsive and quieter.

Hard to believe that such an improvement can come from just a driveshaft change. I don't have any #'s to backup the seat of the pants feel but it pulls harder than before. So far I have not noticed any vibration issues in fact I think that it is smoother than with the stock one, Ford should contract out the driveshafts to the Drive Shaft Shop...

I can't thank you enough for standing by your product even though I was not the original purchaser

Thank you,

Steve Souza

_______________________________

Here is a response to the shaft that we sent to Pep Boys Custom Speed Shop for the upcoming "Born To Run" movie car. It is a 2011 Mustang with a 6-speed.

Frank,Good Morning...track day went great....no issues what so ever. We tuned and did a couple of hard pulls on the dyno and again flawless no problems what so ever. The shaft seems to be on point no vibration, no noise issues. I want to thank you once again for helping us out and providing us with such a high quality part. The car dyno'd at jut over 600RWHP.
Thank You,
Alex xxxxx
_______________________________

This is a response from Rich at Strictly Performance about their GT500 shaft that they are testing with the new CV design (2.10.2011)

Hey
Any luck on the Mustang shafts? I'm anxious to hear some feedback on them, the others I have sent out are doing well.




Yes

No vibration at 150mph and the fit was good. No problems. I will test to 200+mph at the Texas Mile in a month or so!

___________________________________

Derek from D'Agostino Racing's response:

The driveshaft is great. Definite weight savings there. It does not vibrate, and i've taken it up to 120, 80-90 cruising as I do a lot of highway driving. I will be taking it to the track soon.




So there you have it. After countless hours of testing we are proud to bring you the best driveshaft available for the 2005+ Mustangs. Rated up to 1000HP and backed by our full 1-year warranty, this shaft will help to unleash some of the performance that the factory didn't give you access to along with a smooth, vibration free ride. Only from The Driveshaft Shop.


Part Number: FDSH9-A-CV1

 

[PeteInCT]

With the power that the twin Hellion's can make I would venture to say that the entire drivetrain is in jeopary with the possible exception of the Torsen diff (not sure on that). As far as the clutch, MT-82 tranny and driveshaft are concerned I would not even consider running the stock hardware once you get well over 500 HP.

 

[TMSBOSS]

With the power that the twin Hellion's can make I would venture to say that the entire drivetrain is in jeopary with the possible exception of the Torsen diff (not sure on that). As far as the clutch, MT-82 tranny and driveshaft are concerned I would not even consider running the stock hardware once you get well over 500 HP.

Post listed below speaks to problems with the MT-82 when you Significantly increase the power levels.

http://www.boss302forum.com/index.php?/topic/14043-broke-another-input-shaft/

The car in the post was making 760HP and twisted off two inout shafts before the change to another trans.

Looks like this twin turbo will be making that kind of power.

The 8.8 is stout. Stout enough?

 

[PeteInCT]

Exactly my point. What rear diff does the 2013 GT500 run? You'd need at least that as a rear end I guess.

 

[Sesshomurai]

With the power that the twin Hellion's can make I would venture to say that the entire drivetrain is in jeopary with the possible exception of the Torsen diff (not sure on that). As far as the clutch, MT-82 tranny and driveshaft are concerned I would not even consider running the stock hardware once you get well over 500 HP.

Post listed below speaks to problems with the MT-82 when you Significantly increase the power levels.

http://www.boss302forum.com/index.php?/topic/14043-broke-another-input-shaft/

The car in the post was making 760HP and twisted off two inout shafts before the change to another trans.

Looks like this twin turbo will be making that kind of power.

The 8.8 is stout. Stout enough?

Yeah, that's what I had read a while ago and came to mind about this. The TT is an awesome addition, but I'm going to wait until next spring after its been put through the ropes. I don't want to drop an input shaft on the track....but even still, I think the stock drivetrain could handle 500-600. It's engineered way above what its delivered at knowing people are gonna push it.

Another point to consider is if the TT is making 600ish rwhp, the HP on the flywheel and input shaft is going to be much higher still, right?

 

[PeteInCT]

Trust me, the MT-82 and the stock clutch will not handle 600 HP, especially if you're dragging the car. That clutch/tranny combo isn't even used on the Boss 302S/302R and they have the same engine as we do.

 

[Sesshomurai]

Trust me, the MT-82 and the stock clutch will not handle 600 HP, especially if you're dragging the car. That clutch/tranny combo isn't even used on the Boss 302S/302R and they have the same engine as we do.

So are the 302s/302r clutch/tran, drop in replacements in our cars?

 

[PeteInCT]

I know you need to also replace the drive shaft. Other than that I you're good to go, but I'd speak to someone who's really into the internals of the Boss to be sure. There minimally may be other mounts needed, etc.

 

[nota4re]

DSS has a lot of nice claims about the strongest drive shaft, blah, blah, blah...

Facts:

1) Their's is a 3.5" = ours is 4". 4" IS substantially stronger but more costly materials. NO Clearance problems - even with full Kook's exhaust.
2) They use an adapter at the rear end (kind of like using a spacer on a wheel). Our 4" Aluminum driveshaft comes with a new pinion yolk that is easily installed.... keeping the driveshaft full length and eliminating an adapter. More expensive, but the right way.

Our driveshaft is getting the crap tested out of it on road courses in 3 different 2012 Laguna Secas - all of which have seen speeds of 150MPH plus.

 

[Justin]

DSS has a lot of nice claims about the strongest drive shaft, blah, blah, blah...

Facts:

1) Their's is a 3.5" = ours is 4". 4" IS substantially stronger but more costly materials. NO Clearance problems - even with full Kook's exhaust.
2) They use an adapter at the rear end (kind of like using a spacer on a wheel). Our 4" Aluminum driveshaft comes with a new pinion yolk that is easily installed.... keeping the driveshaft full length and eliminating an adapter. More expensive, but the right way.

Our driveshaft is getting the crap tested out of it on road courses in 3 different 2012 Laguna Secas - all of which have seen speeds of 150MPH plus.

The adaptor makes it 2 mm shorter. I will let you know when my breaks and or starts to vibrate. Wouldnt hold my breath though. Oh and the pinion yoke is a band-aid approach and is not easy to install. you have to bust off the pinion nut then using special beam type torque wrench and a healthy impact gun reset the pinion back to the proper drag or risk ruining your pinion bearings and or gear set. and to do so you have to pop out the axles...ie drain the fluid remove the rear breaks. So no its not an easy evolution to do it right

 

[Sesshomurai]

Pete/Justin,
Does this part constitute an upgrade (is it even the same part?) to the boss input shaft (as mentioned in the referenced article about the guy who snapped two?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MGR-MG22189/

EDIT: Nevermind, I realize now that an axle shaft is not the same as an "input shaft". I couldn't find any performance parts for "input shaft" such as an upgrade etc.

Darrren