2015 GT PP Brake Options

[Jgottbrath]

I am looking to track/autocross my '15 GT with PP. First track day left brakes smoking after short amount of track times, so looking to make sure I have right equipment for job.

What do you suggest as far as rotor and brake pad combo? Are there further upgrades to system (master cylinder replacement) needed or is it already sufficient level?

Thoughts or suggestions?

 

[JDee]

I am looking to track/autocross my '15 GT with PP. First track day left brakes smoking after short amount of track times, so looking to make sure I have right equipment for job.

What do you suggest as far as rotor and brake pad combo? Are there further upgrades to system (master cylinder replacement) needed or is it already sufficient level?

Thoughts or suggestions?

Welcome to the site, lots of knowledge from the folks here.

That kind of brake issue is extreme, those are good brakes and should last far longer than that. I take it you are new to track work, did you get some one on one instruction? If not then I would urge you to do so.

The OEM PP 6 piston pads are Ferodo DS2500 and are a very good dual purpose pad, the entire PP brake system is a top notch entry level track brake system. If you're smoking them in a few laps either you're doing something wrong or there is something wrong with your brakes. On my original pads I ran 6 track days, 2 of those days on tracks that are notoriously hard on brakes. Perhaps the OEM pads had been replaced by something not so good? Do you know the history on the car?

Second, get cooling on those brakes, either Vorshlag deflectors or hoses. I switched from hose to deflectors as the hose constantly gets crushed. The deflectors are trivial to mount and work well, hoses, not so much.

 

[ShatterPoints]

I use pagid RSL29's (Yellows) as Raybestos ST43's are sold out everywhere I have looked recently. Pagid is pricey but WOW they work really good.

 

[Jgottbrath]

Welcome to the site, lots of knowledge from the folks here.

That kind of brake issue is extreme, those are good brakes and should last far longer than that. I take it you are new to track work, did you get some one on one instruction? If not then I would urge you to do so.

The OEM PP 6 piston pads are Ferodo DS2500 and are a very good dual purpose pad, the entire PP brake system is a top notch entry level track brake system. If you're smoking them in a few laps either you're doing something wrong or there is something wrong with your brakes. On my original pads I ran 6 track days, 2 of those days on tracks that are notoriously hard on brakes. Perhaps the OEM pads had been replaced by something not so good? Do you know the history on the car?

Second, get cooling on those brakes, either Vorshlag deflectors or hoses. I switched from hose to deflectors as the hose constantly gets crushed. The deflectors are trivial to mount and work well, hoses, not so much.

Well, I am sure there is plenty to learn, but I can say is that I was not the only one. In fact, everyone came back with smoking brakes. One LS swapped mini even had a small fire on his brakes after a few laps. There was significant elevation change, but yeah I would still not expect that much wear for only 4-5 laps on the 1.2 mile course. Thing is the next day no one really had any issues. I suspect it may have had more to do with the wet conditions at the beginning of the run (ie less smoke more steam), but it definitely had me concerned as track owner said it is tough on stock brakes.

The history is pretty short. Drag raced for 2k miles then sold to me.

I will look into those cooling options. The stock rotors pretty solid to or suggest higher quality down road. Is there truely benefit to slotted discs? I have heard argument that due to metal being better heat transmitter than air that solid brakes are better than slotted, but everywhere else you read slotted helps cooling...

 

[Jgottbrath]

I use pagid RSL29's (Yellows) as Raybestos ST43's are sold out everywhere I have looked recently. Pagid is pricey but WOW they work really good.

What rotor's do you use?

 

[PatientZero]

A high percentage of people are just using Centric blank rotors for track use.

 

[bob]

JG,

Run a lighter 2 piece rotor to handle heat better

run big vorschlag deflectors or make your own

scale in carbotech XP pads find what works for you in the line. use less pad in rear example for inter driver XP12 front XP8 rear Adv driver XP20 front XP16 rear

Fluid is not the weak link. Any will do.

Suspension tuning will effect pad choice

 

[Jgottbrath]

A high percentage of people are just using Centric blank rotors for track use.

Yeah, I have seen that on Tire Rack. 120/125? Cryo treated? no idea what that is.

 

[PatientZero]

Look for the Centric C-tek rotors on Rockauto.com $46 each

 

[Jgottbrath]

Look for the Centric C-tek rotors on Rockauto.com $46 each

Definitely affordable! $46/rotor seems cheap what is the downside?

 

[ShatterPoints]

What rotor's do you use?

Stock for now, once this set is used up I will switch to Girodisc since they are not much more than OE rotors anyway and they are a two piece as well.

*Note I have a GT350.

Drilled rotors are just bling and remove rotor surface which arguably can affect braking performance.

Slotted rotors provide more initial feedback and is considered a worth while setup.

Steel blanks are fine to use but lack in thermal capacity compared to carbon, but plenty of people use steel blanks (I've used brembo blanks in the past) just fine.