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2018 GT Dual-Disk Clutch

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Does anyone here yet know whether the 2018 MT-82 still has a 26-spline input shaft, and if so, is there any other reason why the new dual-disk clutch and dual-mass flywheel wouldn't work in my 2017 GT?

I'm wondering because my clutch is wounded and my local Ford shop (that I trust) is unwilling to install any aftermarket dual-disc clutch.
 
Welcome to TMO. That's a great question and hopefully someone has the answer. In my Boss 302 my dealer installed an aftermarket McLeod clutch with the understanding that they would cover the labor but once installed there would be no warranty on the aftermarket clutch. Good luck.
 
Thanks VB for the welcome. I now realize that I should have asked if the new MT-82 input shaft is unchanged - maybe still 26-splines but length has changed. This will all be widely know soon, I'm just impatient.
 
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Yeah I'd like to see all the ratios, wonder if 1-3 changed.

"While Ford’s all-new 10-speed automatic transmission landing in the updated, 2018 Ford Mustang has been the subject of some number of news articles, little has been written about the Getrag-supplied 6-speed manual option. Perhaps this is because it’s the very same manual transmission that’s served the Mustang ever since the debut of the first-generation 5.0L Coyote V8 for 2011, back when the pony car was still in its “S-197” phase.
But just as the Coyote has since moved on, inheriting dual-injection and the 5.2L Voodoo’s advanced, plasma-sprayed cylinder bore liners, the Getrag MT82 has also undergone a bit of innovating.
For 2018, the Ford Mustang GT’s MT82 gets brand-new gear ratios to make full use of the more-potent, 460-horsepower Coyote V8. It’s dubbed the “MT82-D4” for its direct-drive fourth gear (the version in the outgoing Mustang GT had a direct-drive fifth), and its duality of overdrive gears ought to help bring down engine speed during highway cruising. (Despite this, the EPA’s fuel economy ratings for the Ford Mustang GT manual have not budged relative to 2017.)
Responding to customer criticism about shifts sometimes being hard to execute, Ford has also taken the liberty of changing out the MT82-D4’s synchromesh rings, revising the cone angles and tooth geometry to help slide into gears a bit easier. The clutch on the newest Ford Mustang GT has been overhauled, as well, making use of a new twin-disk setup to increase the torque limit while decreasing the amount of effort required to depress the pedal. EcoBoost models don’t get that clutch setup, but they have received a new diaphragm spring and cover, which again raises torque capacity while improving pedal feel.
Mating with the twin-disk clutch in GT models is a new dual-mass flywheel, which should work to dampen violent changes in torque and rotational speed."


Read more: http://fordauthority.com/2017/11/th...n-is-new-and-improved-for-2018/#ixzz4ynzaYbO2
 
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ArizonaBOSS

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That is very interesting news. I wonder if the 5th gear will be something useful for the track like a .9 or .8x overdrive. At any rate, avoiding a shift to 5th will save some time.
 
That is very interesting news. I wonder if the 5th gear will be something useful for the track like a .9 or .8x overdrive. At any rate, avoiding a shift to 5th will save some time.
The 5th gear on the 18s is something like .75 or close to that anyway. It is useless on the track, the factory governor kicks a
In at around 6900rpm in 4th gear. 2-3 are pretty much all you'll use on most tracks and a little of 4th on a long strait as 3rd gear tops around 118
 

steveespo

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As I/we found out the transmission for 2018&up has shitty ratios and a totally different input shaft length from previous years, as such you can't retrofit the clutch to prior year. Recommendation for 2015-17 is to use a Exedy Hyper Twin for track use. I retrograde fitted a 2017 MT-82 to my 2018 PP2, along with the HyperTwin , a crank pilot bearing and a new 2017 spec throwout bearing AND a 2017 spec pedal master cylinder. Add a 2015-15 spec DSS Carbon driveshaft and trans cooler setup and 2 years on and I have the proper gearing for road race use and a very durable/lightweight transmission assembly.
 

PaddyPrix

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Seconding the terrible MT82-D4 ratios for road racing, 5th and 6th are useless, if not impossible to reach on most tracks with 3.55's meaning you need 160+ to go into 5th. My solution is going to be FRPP 4.09's out back, running the rest of the stock setup.

Ratios for any that care:

MT82-----3.70 2.43 1.69 1.32 1.00 0.65
MT82-D4--3.24 2.10 1.42 1.00 0.81 0.62


The MT82 is very similar to the TR-3160 ratios found in the GT350, whereas the MT82-D4 is very similar to the Magnum XL, granted, some places will mix/match between what used to be the close and wide gear set. As of writing this, there is very little aftermarket support from the usual suspects, most want you to shift to the 15-17 Flywheel and Clutch, and using their slave master as well. Talking to McLeod techs, they kept pushing me to a street racing package, and there are some documented challenges with Mantec, which had me just stay with the stock setup for the time being. I'd like for that situation to change, but with the Mach 1 getting the TR-3160, "real racers" aren't likely going to stay on the MT82-D4, and so it's a questionable call with little/no demand.
 
As I/we found out the transmission for 2018&up has shitty ratios and a totally different input shaft length from previous years, as such you can't retrofit the clutch to prior year. Recommendation for 2015-17 is to use a Exedy Hyper Twin for track use. I retrograde fitted a 2017 MT-82 to my 2018 PP2, along with the HyperTwin , a crank pilot bearing and a new 2017 spec throwout bearing AND a 2017 spec pedal master cylinder. Add a 2015-15 spec DSS Carbon driveshaft and trans cooler setup and 2 years on and I have the proper gearing for road race use and a very durable/lightweight transmission assembly.


Is the 15-17 driveshaft a different length than the 2018+?
 
Seconding the terrible MT82-D4 ratios for road racing, 5th and 6th are useless, if not impossible to reach on most tracks with 3.55's meaning you need 160+ to go into 5th. My solution is going to be FRPP 4.09's out back, running the rest of the stock setup.

Ratios for any that care:

MT82-----3.70 2.43 1.69 1.32 1.00 0.65
MT82-D4--3.24 2.10 1.42 1.00 0.81 0.62


The MT82 is very similar to the TR-3160 ratios found in the GT350, whereas the MT82-D4 is very similar to the Magnum XL, granted, some places will mix/match between what used to be the close and wide gear set. As of writing this, there is very little aftermarket support from the usual suspects, most want you to shift to the 15-17 Flywheel and Clutch, and using their slave master as well. Talking to McLeod techs, they kept pushing me to a street racing package, and there are some documented challenges with Mantec, which had me just stay with the stock setup for the time being. I'd like for that situation to change, but with the Mach 1 getting the TR-3160, "real racers" aren't likely going to stay on the MT82-D4, and so it's a questionable call with little/no demand.
Reviving this. I'm debating what transmission to use in my race car. My biggest complaint about my 2015 on track is having to shift into and out of fifth gear with any sort of lateral g's. I hate having to go up and over and then try to find fourth going into the bus stop at the Glen, I've missed it many times even with a shifter and solid mount, one time I stuck it in 6th and did a 360 on exit. Wouldn't the D4 be ideal for a car with 3.55's and a 25" tire (my car)? I could live in 3rd and 4th with straight forward and back shifting. If I ever make it to Daytona, I may even be able to utilize a .81 5th. Thoughts?
 

PaddyPrix

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Reviving this. I'm debating what transmission to use in my race car. My biggest complaint about my 2015 on track is having to shift into and out of fifth gear with any sort of lateral g's. I hate having to go up and over and then try to find fourth going into the bus stop at the Glen, I've missed it many times even with a shifter and solid mount, one time I stuck it in 6th and did a 360 on exit. Wouldn't the D4 be ideal for a car with 3.55's and a 25" tire (my car)? I could live in 3rd and 4th with straight forward and back shifting. If I ever make it to Daytona, I may even be able to utilize a .81 5th. Thoughts?

TL;DR: Get the MT82-D4.

I have wasted probably more time than anybody thinking, calculating, and stewing over those decisions for far, far too long. Also, uniquely being me, I'm going to take your question, and confuse you even more than you were before... unless you stop reading right now.

Stop now.

Looking back, I think the 1.42/1.00 and 3.55 gearing on 315/30/18 is well, darn near perfect... except in Southern California.

We had four tracks, slow/curvy (Buttonwillow + Chuckwalla), and two very high speed power tracks (Auto Club Speedway + Willow Springs). Problem was, I'd kill on two of them, and somewhat suck on the other two, because my competition was taking turns at 120-125, and while I could and was revving to 8k+, I knew it wasn't a good thing, and certainly not a great idea on an otherwise stock engine. So, my solution was to get a Torsen T2R from my friend's GT350R and toss it in with 3.73's, which turned out to be a bad idea in the long run because I'm a rather dumb person and my ear is tuned to shift at 7500, literally no care what the speed is, 7500 reach down and shift. I had been playing with Excel and gear-speed calculation sheets and convinced myself that 3.73's and actually, an MT-82 might not be such a bad idea at all, and perhaps I'd be better doing more shifts.

So, what did I learn? Well, again, more me, but check your courses, the slow/curvy courses would hit 120ish in the straights, and so I'd either overrev or hang, and later just take on another upshift for the shortest of times as I'd have a potentially unnecessary heel-toe partially because I suck at driving, but also that may also more likely have me slightly throwing my car balance, turn rhythm, or turn speed a little off, as I'm trying to retrain my ear to higher revs, but when I fall back to the trained sounds, I'm losing ~3mph. I'm not saying to watch my videos (serious, don't, I suck) but I'd notice that I'd also spend more time thinking and contemplating and hesitating shif---no?--no!--whatabo--okay, shift over and over with my hand bouncing back and forth between the wheel as I was consciously telling myself I was 3-5mph slower, and ... ugh, so stupid.

If I could go back in time, not only would I not be in pain, get to hug and kiss my beloved Stripper, I probably would have stayed with 3.55's and 315/30/18's with the MT-82D4 which is a pretty happy place, and adding some more confirmation bias to the discussion, the super awesome dude Tremec T56 Magnum XL that people are upgrading to in most cases has a 1.43/1.00 if people go with the default wide-gear ratio set. Those who generally change things around, though, usually keep the 1.43/1.00 and switch to the close ratio's 1-2, which I guess don't change things any for this discussion.

Staying in 3rd and 4th is a lot easier because generally speaking, dropping to 2nd pretty much doesn't happen unless you have a turn under 35mph or so, and that slow, I prefer lugging 3rd because I'm diamond turning and powering through the apex instead of delicately balancing the ass from swinging out and potentially missing that quick 2/3 upshift. Generally not going to go into 5th unless you're doing 160+ which tends to be limited to the big tracks, like an Auto Club Speedway, COTA, Daytona, Mid Ohio, etc, etc. PS - NASCAR, f*** you for ruining ACS, you Pac-man of the penis chugging world. Nobody wants to watch people race around a high school track... track.

Also something to think about is what speeds you're doing, and while you Gen2 kids may have a slightly different powerband and rev target, don't forget how important tires are, and so while I did calculations like crazy on the gearing and was very strongly considering switching into an MT-82, I should have focused more efforts onto changing wheels/tires. 335/30/18's would required to run a slightly larger spacer if you're running square Apex 18x12's (32mm?) and might cause some rubbing issues, but by my calculations, you're gaining about 3mph. MSRP on a 315/30-18 A7 is $504, the 335/30-18 is only 50 bucks more per tire, which isn't all that bad considering you're already $2000 in, what's another 10%? ... Downside? depending on who you get your wheel from, they might get pricy. Don't go look at what Apex charges for the VS-5RS 18x12.

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* If you plan to be competitive in NASA ST2/TT2, beware that starting for this 2023 season, everybody but ST1/TT1 now gets a mod penalty when you go over 315 wide. Probably something having to do with us lowly 2's beating them consistently.

Option 2, go with 315/30/19's, which with 3.55's and the MT82-D4's 1.42/1.00 looks to gain you 5mph. This option avoids the NASA ST2/TT2 penalty as it goes off stated/printed tire width instead of the tire width templates as some manufacturers try to game the system, and good news is that you don't see prices go up that much more when you're buying a set of wheels, and generally speaking, don't need to run a larger spacer either. Problem here though is, Hoosier jacks the pricing up juuuust a bit, with the MSRP going up to $646, so just switching to his larger size means you're paying for a whole 'nutha wheel you aren't even going to get to use.

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Long story short, well... I've got no friggin idea, but there are some thoughts, and hopefully sifting through all of this data, you can find some way to turn it into information. The only other thing is that for the MT-82D4, there are at the time I was looking, only two options, McLeod and Mantic. The other choices wanted to essentially switch to a 15-17 flywheel, clutch, slave cylinder, and I wasn't entirely crazy on all that, even though, it's the same friggin transmission other than the different gears/forks/etc. I went with Mantic and couldn't have been happier, and it also saved 30 pounds from by changing the heavy AF stock dual mass flywheel for a billet aluminum one, and a sweet, sweet low moment of inertia dual clutch that honestly feels stock to the point where if you were driving, you wouldn't know it if I didn't tell you. The stock setup pressure plate is too weak which is why you hear about the high rpm lockout stuff, kinda like being on the teacup ride and spinning around like crazy, centripetal force gets increasingly harder to fight so eventually you can't grab and spin that fixed center wheel until you slow down or get thrown out of the teacup ride. If you do, definitely go ceremetallic, it doesn't slip the tiniest bit even in some of those 8200rpm shifts I made trying to overcome 3.73's.

Here is some helpful information though, the MT82-D4 had 3 (technically 4) TSB's for the entire 18 and first half of the 2019MY, addressing weak 1-2 and 3-4 shift forks, and a weak 2nd gear (that they addressed twice, hence 3? 4?). Prices may have gone up slightly (THANKS OBAMA) but you could get an MT82-D4 reman for about 1500 or so (Astro Trans/Ebay) which I had great luck on, until I found mine was an earlier edition or rebuilt before they had the 2nd second, and I ended up pretty much losing it on like my 2nd day of having it, but again back to the 3rd and 4th gearing, that only then further forces me to drive that much more aggressive in low 3rd because now I can't go to 2nd.
(well, or any gear since I f***ing destroyed the car.)

If you made it this far, congrats.
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