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S550 2018 PP1 vs 2020 PP1

17
9
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Marietta GA
So i have both a 2018 and 2020 PP1 cars. the 2018 was a flood car (aptly named the U-Boat - i will be posting a build section soon) and the 2020 a wrecked one. I basically pulling all the electronics i need out of the 2020 and go into the 2018 (wiring, all modules, etc). The 2018 car will become a race car so all the havc, radio, interior (we have to keep the dash), etc. will all be removed. Its a showroom stock type class (T2 in scca) so most of the car must remain stock. Im trying to find out all the subtle differences between the 2 cars. I already see that the 18 has a couple levers below the radio and the 20 has 3 buttons, what are the ecu differences internal (rev match i know is one but any others), etc. Car is located at my shop in Marietta GA so if anyone on here is an actual ford mustang tech and up to date on the electronics side, would love to speak in person and even pay for your time/help on this. My 1st one (they are always the hardest) but prob won't be my last one. Thanks!
 
I recently swapped my 2016 ecoboost to a 2020 coyote drivetrain with all wiring and modules so not exactly what you're doing but somewhat close. Ford made some tweaks to the CAN bus network in 2020 that makes some backwards compatibility challenges with modules on the network. But if you plan to change over every wiring harness and module you should be fine. My recommendation would be to swap everything even modules you know you don't want just so you have less issues upon initial startup after the swap, and then once you're good remove the modules you don't want. The more modules that are missing the more DTC's you have to sort through.
 
17
9
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Marietta GA
im going to try to just plug in the 2020 modules into the 2018 harness and see if I can at least get power to everything and see if it will fire off. Ultimately will swap all the harnesses, Fues blocks, etc from the 20 to the u-boat but would like to make sure it al works before I rip the car into a million pieces for cage, suspension, etc. Asked in another forum but is for scan capable of "removing" modules and stuff that won't be used in a race car application (airbags, seatbelts, hvac, infotainment, etc)? Or is there another program that will?
 
Are the trim levels and options the same between the cars? If not the pin out of the harnesses can be different a will not power everything up or communicate properly. But worth a shot.

Yes Forscan can change asbuilt info which is largely configuration details. But cannot make the canbus ignore modules. So for example my radio is not present any longer and I will forever have a dtc that states communication with radio lost.
 
17
9
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Marietta GA
they are both pp1 cars. The radios are diff (the 18 has the big screen and the 20 has the small one) and the switches below the hvac controls are diff (18 has paddles and 20 just buttons). I am not up on al the subtle package diffs between the years (if anyone can send me a list that would be helpful) but im pretty sure I will be removing most of them. Will disable the nannies through the tuning software (hp tuners prob) nd reading about the abs swaps from more track oriented models (fr350s, gt500, etc) or using a pp2 vin and recoding all the modules - just don't know which is the best or is the pp1 abs adequate for a true front running race car. The Bosch system I don't think is legal but I have to believe someone has figured out how to make it look like a stock module. 12k for it is a little more than I planned to spend on something like that unless its that much better.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
596
839
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
Some slight differences, I had a 19GT base that I sold for a 18GT base. Other than the radio stuff, which I think was more of a 301A/401A vs 300A/400A and the various track modes, the only thing that immediately comes to mind is that the 19+ have an integrated rev matching feature that the 18 GT does not. If you're going to play with. your rear gearing, in 2018, the hex codes for the rear differential gearing/final drive is in the PCM, but in 19 it was moved to the BCM, which is ... annoying, and something to keep mind of if you modify your stuff like that.

The other benefit you got is, if you're a manual, MT82-D4 driver. The 18 was the first year of the revised transmission, and for those lucky owners (just me?) we had 4 TSB's that got resolved halfway through the 2019 production run, so a 2020 means you're very likely in the clear.

Look into downloading Forscan which is the world's greatest free program, which is an incredibly helpful tool that will help you diagnose everything if you have a OBD-to-USB cable and any Windows laptop from like the last 15 years. I don't seem to have much of a problem with the ABS module with my base GT, and I don't think flyhalf has a problem with his PP1. As far as I know, it is the same physical hardware piece with the same part number, but the tuning is done on logic based upon what your vin decodes to, and actually getting more nerdy, something called the AsBuilt calculator, which are various hex codes and values.
 
17
9
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Marietta GA
my obs cable should be here today for the forscan and am already looking at the motorcraft website on the as built codes - collecting vins from the cars that have what i may be looking for. All the cars are manual - no autos here and will be running the 3:73 diff with an upgraded posi (thinking like an os geiken unless there is a better choice for road racing specific application). Do the track modes do anything different to the engine power or delivery and are there differences to the track specific mode over the diff year of the cars?
 
37
32
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
So cal
they are both pp1 cars. The radios are diff (the 18 has the big screen and the 20 has the small one) and the switches below the hvac controls are diff (18 has paddles and 20 just buttons). I am not up on al the subtle package diffs between the years (if anyone can send me a list that would be helpful) but im pretty sure I will be removing most of them. Will disable the nannies through the tuning software (hp tuners prob) nd reading about the abs swaps from more track oriented models (fr350s, gt500, etc) or using a pp2 vin and recoding all the modules - just don't know which is the best or is the pp1 abs adequate for a true front running race car. The Bosch system I don't think is legal but I have to believe someone has figured out how to make it look like a stock module. 12k for it is a little more than I planned to spend on something like that unless its that much better.
SO the 18 is a sync 3 system and the 20 is a sync 1. No need to have a tuner to remove the nannies there is a dyno plug just in front of the drivers side shock tower, pull that and it turns off all the nannies.
 
17
9
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Marietta GA
But will doing the dyno plug cause any lights to come on the dash? I will be doing the tuning myself (well ill have some help from a friend who owns a dyno I use).


SO the 18 is a sync 3 system and the 20 is a sync 1. No need to have a tuner to remove the nannies there is a dyno plug just in front of the drivers side shock tower, pull that and it turns off all the nannies.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
596
839
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
Do the track modes do anything different to the engine power or delivery and are there differences to the track specific mode over the diff year of the cars?

But will doing the dyno plug cause any lights to come on the dash? I will be doing the tuning myself (well ill have some help from a friend who owns a dyno I use).
Yes/no, nothing annoying.
1656381710546.png
You'll get the Traction Control off on the right, and the AdvanceTrak on the left. I think it also pops up some sort of warning on start in the Info screen, just click OK. Basically means that it will no longer apply rear brakes in an attempt to keep your car straight-ish. Shouldn't really be anything on the street, but on the track, you would have noticed it on higher G turns where you're rolling into the power, like if you're exiting onto a straightaway, and its response and engagement rate depends on what the steering angle is, or how hard you've got the wheel turned. Doing so will also mean that you really won't have to worry about overheating your diff, which is a problem for those who track their car in non-track mode, because with the engine pumping the power through the driveshaft, and the rear brakes clamping, the rear diff is stuck in the middle.
 
17
9
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Marietta GA
Ok. Yea i will have a diff cooler with tilton pump to solve that problem and a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft. Also prob will up the diff to an os geiken or similar (something tunable). Will be replacing the steering wheel so will have to make a place for the required buttons. If the car is in track mode all the time, does the dyno plug thing affect that? also would it be better to do it through the tuning software?



Yes/no, nothing annoying.
View attachment 77000
You'll get the Traction Control off on the right, and the AdvanceTrak on the left. I think it also pops up some sort of warning on start in the Info screen, just click OK. Basically means that it will no longer apply rear brakes in an attempt to keep your car straight-ish. Shouldn't really be anything on the street, but on the track, you would have noticed it on higher G turns where you're rolling into the power, like if you're exiting onto a straightaway, and its response and engagement rate depends on what the steering angle is, or how hard you've got the wheel turned. Doing so will also mean that you really won't have to worry about overheating your diff, which is a problem for those who track their car in non-track mode, because with the engine pumping the power through the driveshaft, and the rear brakes clamping, the rear diff is stuck in the middle.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
596
839
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
Ok. Yea i will have a diff cooler with tilton pump to solve that problem and a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft. Also prob will up the diff to an os geiken or similar (something tunable). Will be replacing the steering wheel so will have to make a place for the required buttons. If the car is in track mode all the time, does the dyno plug thing affect that? also would it be better to do it through the tuning software?
Thing is that I guess there's a safety reason for them resetting back to Normal mode every time, and unless you do the 10 second hold on traction control, or triple up tap on the normal/sport/track switch, you'll pretty much ruin a lap or session as you have to come to a complete, or near complete stop to turn it off. Removing that loopback cable/dyno switch makes it permanent, and to the point that if it were me, I wouldn't even bother trying to tune it out just because it's one less thing to worry about or doubting, it also does not disable ABS. The buttons are digital from all I can tell, not analog, so most of us just disintegrate the clock spring and run the cables from the harness and relocate the Arrow/OK pad somewhere else, or in my case, just dangle it through where the stereo used to be.
 
37
32
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
So cal
Ok. Yea i will have a diff cooler with tilton pump to solve that problem and a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft. Also prob will up the diff to an os geiken or similar (something tunable). Will be replacing the steering wheel so will have to make a place for the required buttons. If the car is in track mode all the time, does the dyno plug thing affect that? also would it be better to do it through the tuning software?
Track mode still leaves the nannies on just has them kick in at a later rate. So if you want no nannies either need to pull dyno plug or hold traction control button up for like 5 seconds and you'll get an advanced track off messsage.
 
17
9
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Marietta GA
so the dyne plug it is lol. I wonder how the track mode reacts to rain condones on track - mores, does the traction control behave well enough to use it when on a wet course (where a full rain is the tire choice)
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
596
839
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
so the dyne plug it is lol. I wonder how the track mode reacts to rain condones on track - mores, does the traction control behave well enough to use it when on a wet course (where a full rain is the tire choice)
Not like I'm an expert or anything, but speaking personally, I'd prefer the car interfering with me as little as possible. I'm trying to steer with my butt and if I feel something slightly off, I'd prefer that whatever correction made or not, good or not, is by me. Supposing I survive, it only builds experience and comfort, or a learning experience that makes me into a better driver.

Would hate to think that I'm feeling like I've got some turn, and with no notice to you some calculation where an extra 1 is carried results in the rear locking up as if somebody pulled on the e-brake. Not like the car knows the you're on professional grade rain slicks vs. cheapi-cheapo 225/70/15 all seasons and let's you go to 1.5 lateral G instead of 0.75.


You're much better off to learn the wet line and the art of reading and nibbling back to the race line as you gain confidence and feel the traction returning, or not. Worst comes to the worst, what, Ford going to write you a sorry letter and give you a weblink to track their software development bug in Jira?
 
17
9
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Marietta GA
I love racing in the rain. my current race car has no nannies and im working on the traction control (it uses an aem infinity ecu) for the corner exits in the wet. The mustang will have double the power (and almost double the weight) so thinking the traction control could possibly help with wet traction on corner exit. No other real need for it lol.
 
Yes/no, nothing annoying.
View attachment 77000
You'll get the Traction Control off on the right, and the AdvanceTrak on the left. I think it also pops up some sort of warning on start in the Info screen, just click OK. Basically means that it will no longer apply rear brakes in an attempt to keep your car straight-ish. Shouldn't really be anything on the street, but on the track, you would have noticed it on higher G turns where you're rolling into the power, like if you're exiting onto a straightaway, and its response and engagement rate depends on what the steering angle is, or how hard you've got the wheel turned. Doing so will also mean that you really won't have to worry about overheating your diff, which is a problem for those who track their car in non-track mode, because with the engine pumping the power through the driveshaft, and the rear brakes clamping, the rear diff is stuck in the middle.
So by turning TC and stability control completely off, does that address some of the s550 GT rear diff overheating issues on track? I was going to wrap my exhaust and look into various diff fluids to try and prevent overheat. Not ready to do a cooler right now.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
596
839
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
So by turning TC and stability control completely off, does that address some of the s550 GT rear diff overheating issues on track? I was going to wrap my exhaust and look into various diff fluids to try and prevent overheat. Not ready to do a cooler right now.
Did for me, and I've run on 115 degree days. Without the brakes kicking in, the driveshaft and diff, and axles are able to spin semi-freely and if you've got something like 75w140 in it, you should be fine. Hold off on the cooler or wraps unless you've already got one and see where this gets you. You'll know the diff is overheating when the car goes into limp mode and temporarily flashes a strange icon you wouldn't have previously seen.
 
Did for me, and I've run on 115 degree days. Without the brakes kicking in, the driveshaft and diff, and axles are able to spin semi-freely and if you've got something like 75w140 in it, you should be fine. Hold off on the cooler or wraps unless you've already got one and see where this gets you. You'll know the diff is overheating when the car goes into limp mode and temporarily flashes a strange icon you wouldn't have previously seen.
Yea I definitely am not going to preemptively do a cooler. Just going off my last event in late April w ambient temps in the low to mid 50s. Didn't overheat at all but the temp guage was pushing "2pm." Any downside to doing the exhaust wrap ? Or is that secretly a PITA that I'm blissfully unaware of. Just trying to hit the low hanging fruit so I'm not cranky at my next event end of July.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
596
839
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
Any downside to doing the exhaust wrap ? Or is that secretly a PITA that I'm blissfully unaware of. Just trying to hit the low hanging fruit so I'm not cranky at my next event end of July.
Other than money, nah, I mean, it weighs all of what, 2 pounds? Not like it's going to unwrap and then get caught in your spokes or anything.
 

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