S550 2020 Heritage GT350R Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

[Hangman77]

This is the Build Thread for 2020 Heritage GT350R. Reply below.

 

[Hangman77]

Hello, new to this forum. I have this build posted on mustang6g, but it seems this is a very track based forum. So allot of insight here seems fitting. I’ve already been reading a bunch on here and there’s a lot of technical info. And clearly allot of people who frequently track their cars. So here is my build.

Modding is expensive, we shall never forget this.

So to start 2021 with a bang. I’m going full on into my GT350R. I debated allot of different setups and directions to go with this. And like most any build this extensive, it’s subject to changes along the way and will most certainly take months and months of testing along the way to get the car “dialed” in. I’m still in allot of research phase. I’ve been in the mopar world for the past 3 years and haven’t been back to mustangs for a while. Half mile and 1/4 mile have been fun. But ever since my dad bought me the two day Ford performance driving school, I got the road race bug.

I am going to road race this car. Locally here in Palm beach they have the Palm beach Driving Club. This gets us on the track every week for 4 hours to run as hard as we want. It’s a 2 mile track and there are a bunch of Porches and other exotics to play with. I’m in the process of getting my competition license with SCCA, im in the very beginning stages of that. Will be lots of fun. Don’t know much about the types of classes etc, and also NASA has a cool Florida chapter that I want to check out. The car will have fun on the street as well. Although I already have a Hellcat running 1000 whp on street setup now and a terminator as well. So this GT350R won’t get tons of street mileage.

I want to keep weight as low as possible. So I will be measuring these parts along with the stock components to see where the gains and loss is at. Ultimately I hope to complete this build and at the least I want to remain back at stock weight.

As for power levels, I do not plan on high boosting the car for the track. For track I don’t see the need for more than 650-750 whp. I would like to get it around 650-700 to start and work up from there. The idea is a very solid powerband and turbos that bring the power on smooth. Tuning will be key, and I have a good Tuner who has done some other cars of mine.

So on to the build.

The Engine will be fully built by MPR racing engines in South Florida. Going full tilt. This is a brand new engine being built separately. My stock engine is still in my car. I’ll be driving it and racing it while I’m procuring parts for this build. I’ll keep my stock engine as a backup once I make the swap. Engine will be able to hold 1600-1800 crank HP. RPM good to 8800-9000. Although I don’t plan on setting it that high, maybe 8500.

Intake Manifold: Stock

Throttle Body: still researching, open to ideas from others.

Power Adder: Hellion Twin Turbo under mount kit. Looking at different turbo options, will be ordering in the next 2-3 weeks. My builder likes the PTE 62mm ball bearing turbos. I want something that can spool quick and work well with the RPM ranges of this car. I’m open to suggestions and am still researching this. Will be calling Hellion as well. This is primarily a road racer.

Clutch: I’m in between the Mcleoud Twin disc or the Mantic Triple disc. Will be calling Mantic to discuss road racing.

Trans: Stock tremec. We will see how it lasts.

Shifter: MGW short throw with stock knob.

Competition Motorsports Roll bar custom powder coated in Guardsman Blue.

Shelby 5 point racing harness

HANS device Ultralight carbon

Stilo ST5 2020 Carbon Helmet with integrated Ear Muffs and Mic. Racing electronics receiver, push to talk, Motorola, and roll bar mounted Antenna.

SRP Racing Pedals ordered

Steeda Sub frame alignment kit ordered
Steeda Vertical links ordered
Steeda Road Race K member (around 25lb savings) ordered
Steeda IRS support brace ordered
Steeda Rear toe links ordered
Steeda Rear adjustable camber arms. ordered
Steeda Jacking rails ordered
Steeda Adjustable Caster Camber Plates ordered
Steeda Intake Heat Shielding ordered

Zl1 Titanium Tow Hook

Exhaust: Borla Atak Catback

Archangel Or Antigravity Lithium battery 15-20 lbs savings still deciding which one

Driveshaft: QA1 Carbon fiber shaft. Ordered

Titanium Brake shields ordered

Cool Tech Brake Completion Kit ordered

Oil Separators driver and passenger

Head Cooling mod ordered

Auto Blip: not sure on this yet. I enjoy heel toe but if this can save seconds I might do it.

I’ll play with losing weight as the build progresses.

Possibly add carbon fiber hood and deck lid. Should be 20-30 lbs there.

Check on the front and rear bumper supports and see what they look like when the car is apart. Maybe 10-20 lbs?

Carbon ceramic rotors will get added once the stock rotors are toast. They are worth around 40 lbs.

Fuel system: Undecided

Radiator: C&R racing

Caliperfection Studs: ordered

Titanium Lugs: researching

Verus Engineering rear diffuser: ordered

I will add more or remove things as this build progresses. Estimated timeframe to completion is 3-5 months. The engine is ordered. And all the steeda stuff is ordered and few other items.

 

[Hangman77]

Got the roll bar and harness in

 

[Hangman77]

MGW shifter and brake duct completion kit done

 

[Bill Pemberton]

This is one of those builds where it might be easier to tell us what your are not going to do, ha. The list might be shorter , but do keep us all up to date and it will be fun to see how she does at the old renamed Moroso Motorsports Park. I know one of the guys who runs a Porsche down at the Palm Beach Track , so when she is ready let me know so I can warn him to be ready to give you a point by, ha!

 

[Hangman77]

This is one of those builds where it might be easier to tell us what your are not going to do, ha. The list might be shorter , but do keep us all up to date and it will be fun to see how she does at the old renamed Moroso Motorsports Park. I know one of the guys who runs a Porsche down at the Palm Beach Track , so when she is ready let me know so I can warn him to be ready to give you a point by, ha!

I tend to go all out on my builds, I usually add power first and neglect to reinforce the engine. This time I’m adding a built engine before the power. I don’t want to repeat the same thing I’ve done in the past.

so far pbir has been a blast. Been 3 times already and going out again tomorrow. Lots and lots porches out there racing with us. They are fast!! Gives me a good benchmark to keep up with.

Nice to meet you.

 

[Hangman77]

Added caster camber plates, rear camber arms and rear vertical links today. Getting an alignment done tomorrow to make this thing stick better and not chew my tires up.

 

[Hangman77]

Was out Sunday with my dad racing. Had a blast, but look at my tires with stock alignment.
Hopefully I can salvage another track day.

any recommendation for a good tire that will get me 4-6 good sessions and still be sticky?

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Scrape of the tire clagg and get back out there. Get a competition alignment with at least 2.5 degrees negative camber in front , 1.5-1.8 in rear and rock and roll till you burn those up. Tires don't look that terrible , just a lot of track rubber dung build up.

 

[Hangman77]

Alignment done. See how it goes tonight

 

[Ludachris]

Thanks for joining in and sharing your build here @Hangman77 - I'm still reading through your updates but wanted to take a second and say I appreciate all the photos and time you've put in here already sharing what you're doing. We love seeing people post a lot of info about their car, the work they're doing on the build, and the experiences from their track events. It builds camaraderie and passion, and it's infectious.

As you pointed out, this is a very track-focused group and I think you might find this to be a better home than M6g because of that. If you know other track rats who aren't in here yet, be sure to invite them in!

 

[Tequestashelby]

welcome. I’m close to you in tequesta and a gt350 owner. I’ve run with NASA Florida and there a good group but not sure what class your car would run in. Might be their unlimited class with all the mods your doing.

great to see all the build info. I’m keeping my gt350 quite a bit more stock except for camber plates, auto blip And catch cans. Don’t plan to race my gt350 just have fun with it until I buy a track only car.

 

[Hangman77]

Soooo I think these tires are done

this was the 3rd track event

so I guess 2 is the limit on these sport cup 2’s

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

nahhhhhhh they go another day in them !

 

[PatrickStapler]

Good Lord!!! What track? So I know not to go there... .

 

[Hangman77]

I tried to go 3 track days. Now I learned only 2 lol.

 

[Hangman77]

Fresh SC2’s are on.

will be back out on PBIR this Wednesday the 3rd

Will be at homestead Miami speedway on Saturday the 13th with chin.

PBIR again on the 17th

And I have Sebring for feb 26.

Gonna be a fun February for racing

 

[Hangman77]

Anyone have a recommendation for brake pad? My stock ones only have one more track day.

hawk pads? Stick with OEM?

also any other tire recommendations?

a buddy is recommending the Goodyear f1 super car??

 

[67GTA]

Anyone have a recommendation for brake pad? My stock ones only have one more track day.

hawk pads? Stick with OEM?

also any other tire recommendations?

a buddy is recommending the Goodyear f1 super car??

Which SuperCar tire is he recommending - the 3 or the 3R? If you want more than 3 track days but give up a bit of that R compound grip, the 3’s are a great tire and surprisingly fast. If you want that same SC2 level grip without the cost, the 3R’s are hard to beat - just don’t expect improved lifespan.

 

[biggsy]

Anyone have a recommendation for brake pad? My stock ones only have one more track day.

hawk pads? Stick with OEM?

also any other tire recommendations?

a buddy is recommending the Goodyear f1 super car??

Raybestos ST45 or St47 with ST43 in the rear maybe. I was told they last longer than GLOCs. I ran GLOC R12/R10 last year with no problem. You will probably want R16 up front and R12 or R10 in the rear