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275/40/18 NT01's

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Anyone have any experience with 275/40/18 NT01's?

So far I've been running street tires and I think it's time that I upgrade to DOT-R's.

Didn't want to go with the 305's yet, since I may experience some rubbing with the stock suspension and 18x10 +43 F14's.
 
I run the 275's up front and the 305's in the rear and like them a lot. Be warned once you make the step to sticky tires there's no going back to street tires. Another option is Pirelli Trefeo R's that come in 295's. They are a short tire though and a bit more money but should be stickier and closer to a Hoosier with a bit better wear.

https://www.onedgeperformance.com/products/brand/pirelli/778#aspecs
 
I dont think I'm ready for full slicks yet!

295/30 is a little short for my taste as well, but might try them out down the line. Seems like the Trofeo R's would be a nice transition step between the NT01's and full slicks.

Rick, do you recommend the heat cycle option when purchasing the NT01's?
 

mmcguirk

Team Shelby Pacific Coast Region Director
I have run 275 40 18 NT01s for years and love them. They wear like iron, I got at least 30 days on my last set.

They were our of stock for a while last year, so I bought a set of R888s in the same size. The R888s are not as good in my opinion.

Like someone else mentioned, track tires are heroin........
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Looks like I'll be placing my order tonight. I was checking these tires out for a while, but like you mentioned, they were out of stock recently, as well.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
mmcguirk said:
I have run 275 40 18 NT01s for years and love them. They wear like iron, I got at least 30 days on my last set.

The R888s are not as good in my opinion.

Agreed on both counts. NT01 is the best track tire with respect to grip and longevity for the money. Not the stickiest but pretty good.
 
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I just ran NT01s for the first time this past weekend. Loved the tires, very happy with them so far.

I actually ran a 275/35/18 which is a bit shorter than the oem diameter. I am curious if anyone here has run both the 35 and 40 sidewalls, and what you preferred of the two?
 
WinterSucks said:
Anyone able to comment on the RA1 vs NT01 on a Mustang? RA1 seems like it would be much better when wet but I am not sure about dry and longevity.

Didn't think they made RA1s in sizes that we could use.

apex32 said:
I just ran NT01s for the first time this past weekend. Loved the tires, very happy with them so far.

I actually ran a 275/35/18 which is a bit shorter than the oem diameter. I am curious if anyone here has run both the 35 and 40 sidewalls, and what you preferred of the two?

Glad you like the tires!
I received mine, but I won't be using it until next month. I think I can get one more weekend out of my RS3s at VIR this weekend.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
apex32 said:
I just ran NT01s for the first time this past weekend. Loved the tires, very happy with them so far.

I actually ran a 275/35/18 which is a bit shorter than the oem diameter. I am curious if anyone here has run both the 35 and 40 sidewalls, and what you preferred of the two?

The 35 has a sharper turn-in compared to the 40, but the 40's overall height adds a little more "spring" for bumps and also gets you another couple MPH in each gear.
 
F.D. Sako said:
Didn't think they made RA1s in sizes that we could use.

Only a 275/35ZR18. And they are only rated for 149mph (Should be fine on my nearby small track), standard load, 1529lbs.

John Berget sells take-offs. Maybe he sells NT01s as well, but I will probably go with the RA1 just in case I get caught in the rain (if they are not too worn already).
 
Just wanted to give a quick update on the 275/40/18 NT01's. I got the chance to test them out for the first time at Summit Point - Main today.

This was my first time running DOT-R compound tires, and the grip difference between these and summer performance tires was amazing! Most notable difference was during braking. Hard braking always returned consistent results, even though I was experiencing long brake pedal travel, because of my worn pads.

I did have a difficult time managing the pressure on the NT01s. The RS-3's were easier to predict cold-hot pressures. I need a little bit more experience with the NT01's so that I figure out their temp/pressure characteristics.

One "negative" thing that I experienced was major mid-corner understeer :eek:. It almost took the fun out of the event, because of how much I had to back off to let the front-end grip.

Initially, I start with 5F/3R shock settings (stock shocks) and understeer was straight up horrible. As I stiffened the rear shocks to 4, then 5, the understeer became a little bit more manageable, but still very evident. So, I need to do something to eliminate mid-corner understeer... perhaps lower the watts-link pivot location one step. Any suggestions?
 
Is the front sway stock or adjustable? If adjustable I would try dropping the FSB down in stiffness before messing with the back of the car assuming its behaving OK back there otherwise.

Out of curiosity, which brand Watts Link do you have and which location are you set to currently?
 
Front sway bar is stock, only mod up front is MM camber plates. Rear is behaving nicely with the watts-link.

I've installed the cortex kit (w/o torque arm) and the current pivot point is set at the second hole from the top (there's four total).
 

cobrarob

11 Shelby GT500
555
130
new york
Hey FDSako I had the same experience when I ran
my 555IIs. Ran at Thompson which was a very tight track thou.
I had the adj Eibach in middle poss, and also have the 18 rsb.
Shocks were 2 turns off stiff(f) 2-1/2 rear. I'm hittin LRP next
week try to do diff settings to let you know
 
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FD Sako, I think you would want to raise the mounting location of the watts link if you have understeer, as that would raise the roll center relative to the front. If you lower the roll center then you would need more spring rate to compensate. NFSBoss has a lot more spring rate than you do with the coilovers, which results in a lower mounting location for his watts link. You could always try a 20 or 22 mm rear bar.
 

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